JDean6pac

hey guys, im looking for a cheap swap. i gota ek ex wit stock d16 except for an exhaust on it. im in college and dont plan to do anything too serious till after i get out. i jus wanna pick up my torque a lil bit maybe add a few hp so i can hav a lil bit quiker street car. i was jus hopin for sum suggestions on weather i should do the b20 swap or the LS swap? also if i DO do the b20 swap, what tranny should i use and what other things do i hav 2 do cuz i know you hav to piece together a b20 swap. suggestions please O also one more thing, is the b20 a vtec? i forgot to check

gottalovethe4door

keep your d16 for now, save the money you would drop on the swap + money you can save in the mean time, then just turbo it...

gottalovethe4door

p.s. the b20 is not vtec, but if you do get it, try for a b16 or gsr tranny... but this doesnt matter since you should just turbo the d ne way ;-)

JDean6pac

so itd just b cheaper to boost it? maybe like 5-8 psi? cuz its also a daily driver and i gota hav a reliable car to get 2 n from work n college...

SkoundrelUSA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDean6pac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so itd just b cheaper to boost it? maybe like 5-8 psi? cuz its aq daily driver 2 i gota get 2 n from work n college...</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you know what you're doing and can get hookups on products (like have friends or something with all the stuff and just piece it together) yes it can be cheaper. But then you gotta tune and also take that risk of the turbo setup ever going bad or blowing up. NOT saying they are unreliable but there is that risk.

While with a stock LS its just that. A stock LS that you can drive like any other car.
LS longblock - $400
GSR trans - $500

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

^^ What he said. You are better off going with the LS also because the B20 is considered a SUV engine, which will not allow you to BAR your car. A stock LS will keep you satisfied for a while and its just about as cheap as a d16. The LS is reliable and great for DD and will also be good if you choose to boost it. Do some reasearch and go for the LS, you can find one for cheap like Skoundrel said

JDean6pac

thanks guys much appreciated one more thing i havin alot of troulbe finding a place to get cheap engine parts any1 no of anyplaces online? and im curious whats the difference between a long block and a short block?

spock_rocker

my vote is for the B20.. but then again im partial

SkoundrelUSA

Buying an engine/swap from a place like hmotors and whatnot will be a lot more than if you were to find someone locally. I know there can be the risk of buying a messed up motor from someone but thats up to you. Get some good friends

Try looking on the HT classifieds in your area.

A longblock is basically the engine itself (complete bottom end/block with a complete head with everything). A shortblock is basically just the bottom end or the block of an engine including internals. Check wikipedia if you want an official definition

JDean6pac

ok thanks again

51-50ej7

What do you mean BAR? 95ej1?

shake-zula

i'll save your money but i can understand wanting alittle more for the street, i went from a vw vr6 too a ek dx i missed the torque but if u come up on a deal i'll take either

SkoundrelUSA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 51-50ej7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you mean BAR? 95ej1?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its a California inspection thing. If you're not in CA, don't worry about it

JDean6pac

yea i dont hav BAR 2 worry about but i just hopin for a lil more street power cuz i drove the new civic which has da same as a LS motor....i def want sum of that power under my hood