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b18c5 build plans - gasket questions and suggestions please

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Old 04-13-2004, 03:54 PM
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Default Re: (Icey112)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Icey112 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man im in the same shoes. Ive got a poor mans type r on a dry kit 75 shot and im stuck on what injectors to run i don't spray all the time. I found some rc 310 and 450 for a great deal but i think 450 all motor would be a little over kill im thinking more about the 310 .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah leaning out a VAFC would suck with overkill injectors lol. Um, I'm too familiar with head gaskets, I would guess the metal ones are less forgiving? Either way, you could do a 2 layer to give a nudge to feed those cams.
Old 04-13-2004, 03:56 PM
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Default Re: (Icey112)

so far i'm set on the following items

s2s2 cams, valves, guides, springs, retainers, ecu

questioning mugen metal head gasket & thermostat
which FPR, fuel pump, and injectors?

is there a valve gasket kit i should get that handles higher compression, is it even a valid point to cover?

thanks so far guys.
Old 04-13-2004, 03:56 PM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IDriveAHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Either way, you could do a 2 layer to give a nudge to feed those cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

where can i pick one up? and would u recommend a vafc or just have S2 chip an ecu for my specific build? i'm not one to change **** to often.. i like to get it set where i like it and leave it alone.
Old 04-13-2004, 03:58 PM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

Just get OEM valve cover and spark plug gaskets. DON'T get the B&M FPR, I've had to **** with this thing so many times. The AEM is more expensive but better I think. Since you wanna do it right go with that or a nice Aeromotive one. Walbro pumps work, but they're noisy. I can hear mine pretty clearly with the radio down. RC saturated injectors would work for you, maybe 310's like the other guy said. Don't get a chipped ECU with nitrous, they typically advance timing.. Which would suck lol. If you have a shop that can tune a VAFC that would be better. Or Hondata with nitrous control.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:00 PM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

bout a month ago, i swapped a red valve cover w/ my buddy for his black one... i replaced the valve/plug ring gaskets w/ OE. u think when i build in about 6 months i should replace again??
Old 04-13-2004, 04:01 PM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

I didn't replace mine when I did my swap and had the valve cover off.. It's up to you really. Mine still looked fine.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:02 PM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

wtf is this??? http://www.inlinefour.com/aemhigperfue.html

and will this http://www.inlinefour.com/bmfuelpresga.html (B&M FPR gauge) work w/ AEM FPR?
Old 04-13-2004, 04:03 PM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

A fuel filter. OEM will do you fine.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:06 PM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

edited previous post, wondering if the B&M FPR gauge will work w/ AEM FPR??

still curious as to what rods/pistons i should look into and where to obtain a 2 layer metal head gasket to raise compression for s2s2 cam compensation.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:08 PM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

If you get the AEM you don't need the B&M. Get a gauge as well. Eagle H beam rods, ARP bolts, and JE forged pistons would work. If you go to 11.1 compression you can use a 3 layer headgasket. S2S2's will love 11.1 vs 10.6.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:10 PM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IDriveAHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you get the AEM you don't need the B&M. Get a gauge as well. Eagle H beam rods, ARP bolts, and JE forged pistons would work. If you go to 11.1 compression you can use a 3 layer headgasket. S2S2's will love 11.1 vs 10.6.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aem have a gauge??? i know i wont' need 2 FPRs just don't see an AEM FPR gauge listed @ IL4, so wondering if the B&M gauge is compatible?

isn't stock ITR 11.1?

also, do u have a good link to where i can find those rods/pistons?
Old 04-13-2004, 04:18 PM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

My bad I deleted my post on accident. USDM ITR is 10.6 and JDM ITR is 11.1. You can find rods and pistons on here for sale quite often. Any fuel pressure gauge will work, you can mount it on the fuel filter.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:19 PM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

where is the fuel filter located???
Old 04-13-2004, 04:20 PM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

Firewall, behind intake manifold. It's a black cylindrical object on my car. It has a line going to the fuel rail. It sits higher than most everything, next to the battery in my Civic.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:20 PM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

wouldn't u want the FPR gauge attached to the FPR?
Old 04-13-2004, 04:21 PM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

You can put them on the fuel rail. Mine sits on top of the filter where the fuel line comes out. It's easy to install that way.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:25 PM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

so far my list includes

cams, valves, guides, springs, retainers, fpr, fpr gauge, fuel pump, 2 layer metal head gasket, eagle h rods, arp rod bolts, and je pistons... what specs should i get on the pistons? and where can i find a 2 layer head gasket?

leaving work to head to the gym, will check on this later... thanks again for all the help so far.
Old 04-13-2004, 04:26 PM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

You don't need a 2 layer if you're going with aftermarket pistons cause you can get 11.1's or whatever compression you want. If you wanna keep standard bore go for 81 MM's.
Old 04-14-2004, 07:44 AM
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Default Re: (IDriveAHonda)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkRiBLaH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get rid of the skunk **** and you'll probiably be ok.

for the millionth time, there ARE more companys that make performance parts, other than OEM honda and skunk.

better quality and better price can be found elsewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you've got a better suggestion for daily driven, please by all means point me to it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IDriveAHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't need a 2 layer if you're going with aftermarket pistons cause you can get 11.1's or whatever compression you want. If you wanna keep standard bore go for 81 MM's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

can i get 11.1 compression w/ 81mms? i'd rather not rebore the motor. wheres a reputable place to find these brand new?
Old 04-15-2004, 11:26 AM
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Default Re: (citrEK)

bump @ work.
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