b16a or b18c?
05-31-2002, 08:55 PM
#3
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Re: b16a or b18c? (PatrickEwing)
Extremely Off Topic:
Patrick Ewing is an old man with bad knees. All you got was sloppy seconds (Thirds, excuse me), we had him in his prime........
Back on topic:
B18C
Patrick Ewing is an old man with bad knees. All you got was sloppy seconds (Thirds, excuse me), we had him in his prime........
Back on topic:
B18C
05-31-2002, 09:12 PM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (DOHC b16a VTEC)
sorry to budge in...
please post this under the newbie section.
between a b16a and a b18c, it's all up to you. for the post, not worth being in here.
please post this under the newbie section.
between a b16a and a b18c, it's all up to you. for the post, not worth being in here.
05-31-2002, 11:24 PM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (VTEC CX)
Seriously I am going to tell you b18c. I had both and the b18 kicks the **** out of the b16. Test drive an Si then a GSR. That will make up your mind for you. That is all I can tell you. Trust me. However whether or not you want to pay for this diffrence is up to you. B16 is much more cost effective and does have some advantages. It's up to you. I would still recommend the b18.
[Modified by sweettooth, 8:28 AM 6/1/2002]
[Modified by sweettooth, 8:28 AM 6/1/2002]
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06-01-2002, 01:09 AM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (DOHC b16a VTEC)
if you are wanting to build up blocks, forget both and get the b20b or b20z, and rebuild it...
i would get the b18b1 and sleeve the block and get a vtec conversion, if i had to buy a new block.... titanium valve springs are your friend
i would get the b18b1 and sleeve the block and get a vtec conversion, if i had to buy a new block.... titanium valve springs are your friend
06-01-2002, 01:48 AM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (DOHC b16a VTEC)
B18c1 - 170 hp, 128 ft./lbs.
v.
b16a1 - 160 hp, 111ft./lbs.
Basically the gs-r motor would annialate the b16a stock for stock, but for the money i think the b16a is definetly the choice.The b16 is a very good building block, especially for a hatch, if you slightly build the little 1.6 with say CTR (civic type-R)cams and CTR pistons, you could jump the little twin cam to around 170-180 hp, the torque of the b18c will still be unmatched but you will have a nice top end.And also for the fact that a gen 1 b16 is around $1000 for complete swap while the b18c(1) is around $3000 - $3500, and if you blow up a b16 , they are about a dime a dozen, right now you can buy 16a longblocks for around $400, and that makes the little motor well worth it, againg just my .2 cents.
v.
b16a1 - 160 hp, 111ft./lbs.
Basically the gs-r motor would annialate the b16a stock for stock, but for the money i think the b16a is definetly the choice.The b16 is a very good building block, especially for a hatch, if you slightly build the little 1.6 with say CTR (civic type-R)cams and CTR pistons, you could jump the little twin cam to around 170-180 hp, the torque of the b18c will still be unmatched but you will have a nice top end.And also for the fact that a gen 1 b16 is around $1000 for complete swap while the b18c(1) is around $3000 - $3500, and if you blow up a b16 , they are about a dime a dozen, right now you can buy 16a longblocks for around $400, and that makes the little motor well worth it, againg just my .2 cents.
06-01-2002, 08:55 AM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (sweettooth)
Test drive an Si then a GSR. That will make up your mind for you.
06-01-2002, 12:45 PM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (cr00klyn718)
come one guys.. lets not forget gearing ratio. b16a has a much closer gearing ratio which makes it accerate just as fast. the b16a is also cheaper... im not saying its better but i mean i can see why there is somedescion making here. i dont know why some you guys r just blowing the b16a off. they are both good engines with their qualities.
[Modified by ToneyTigre, 1:49 PM 6/1/2002]
[Modified by ToneyTigre, 1:49 PM 6/1/2002]
06-01-2002, 01:36 PM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (ToneyTigre)
I'm actually going to get a B16A2 because it's a much cheaper starting point for my CRVTEC.
Now if you just want a fun daily driver and are ok with spending 1000 dollars more for a little more torque (worth it imo) then get the B18C.
my $0.02
Now if you just want a fun daily driver and are ok with spending 1000 dollars more for a little more torque (worth it imo) then get the B18C.
my $0.02
06-01-2002, 02:42 PM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (VTECVillain)
This is a joke right??? Please tell me this is a joke. I got one: What is better, D15B1 or B18C5?
06-01-2002, 03:00 PM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (highpsi)
instead of being a **** to this guy you couldve just wrote a one word answer,maybe he really doesnt know,and who gave YOU the power to tell him that his post"isnt worth being in here,imo your jackass reply with NO answer isnt worth being here and takes up just as much bandwith as his question.
B18C
06-01-2002, 03:17 PM
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Re: b16a or b18c? (C1V1C)
Just like you gave no answer
B18C
B18C
Miguel
[Modified by SIINSI, 9:41 PM 6/1/2002]
06-01-2002, 03:56 PM
#25
Former Moderator
Re: b16a or b18c? (jdm4life)
I've said this at least 50 times on this MB, but I'm sure those posts are long gone now:
I have owned all 3 of the common VTEC swaps in the exact same type of car.
1999 B16A2 from Civic Si coupe. It's in my girl's 1992 Si hatchback. Dynoed 143whp, 102ft/lbs. torque. Car feels great, but cannot compare to the other motor set-ups that I had in my 1992 Si hatchback.
1995 B18C1 from Integra GS-R. Had it in my 1992 Si hatch and it would romp her car all day long from any stop, roll, corner exit, etc. Dynoed 150whp and 122ft/lbs. of torque. True the gearing is a little more spaced than the B16A, but it doesn't matter because these motors have a BROAD powerband that compliments the taller gearing. This car busted 14.7 in full street trim even on shitty 16'' wheels/tires.
1998 USDM B18C5 from ITR. Had this after the B18C1 in the same 1992 Si hatch and it now resides in my 1992 CX hatch. This motor set-up demolishes my old set-up and most certainly rapes and pillages the B16A2, but then again it should. This dynoed 175whp and 123ft/lbs. of torque and busted 13.9@100.97mph in full street trim on street tirs in my Si hatch and ran 13.3@99mph on 20'' baby slicks in my CX hatch in horrible elevation and heat.
Cars being equal, the B18C1 was the overall best value though IMO. This is all relative on pricing though, so in my case my B18C5 didn't cost me a penny more than my GS-R swap because I got a killer deal from the ITR's orig. owner after he totalled it and bought it back from insurance.
Each motor is bad-***, and none of them feel slow. The B16A2 definately has to revved to **** just to get any power out of it, while the B18C1 has much more power down low than the B16A2 and even more down low than the B18C5.
I'll be back to check in on this thread, but I think I've got a very fair comparison since I've driven all 3 swaps in the same car under every condition imaginable.
...And stop being such asses to the guy - it makes the whoile MB look bad and it would drive me away if I was asking the same Q and was new here.
Late y0!
[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 10:30 AM 6/2/2002]
I have owned all 3 of the common VTEC swaps in the exact same type of car.
1999 B16A2 from Civic Si coupe. It's in my girl's 1992 Si hatchback. Dynoed 143whp, 102ft/lbs. torque. Car feels great, but cannot compare to the other motor set-ups that I had in my 1992 Si hatchback.
1995 B18C1 from Integra GS-R. Had it in my 1992 Si hatch and it would romp her car all day long from any stop, roll, corner exit, etc. Dynoed 150whp and 122ft/lbs. of torque. True the gearing is a little more spaced than the B16A, but it doesn't matter because these motors have a BROAD powerband that compliments the taller gearing. This car busted 14.7 in full street trim even on shitty 16'' wheels/tires.
1998 USDM B18C5 from ITR. Had this after the B18C1 in the same 1992 Si hatch and it now resides in my 1992 CX hatch. This motor set-up demolishes my old set-up and most certainly rapes and pillages the B16A2, but then again it should. This dynoed 175whp and 123ft/lbs. of torque and busted 13.9@100.97mph in full street trim on street tirs in my Si hatch and ran 13.3@99mph on 20'' baby slicks in my CX hatch in horrible elevation and heat.
Cars being equal, the B18C1 was the overall best value though IMO. This is all relative on pricing though, so in my case my B18C5 didn't cost me a penny more than my GS-R swap because I got a killer deal from the ITR's orig. owner after he totalled it and bought it back from insurance.
Each motor is bad-***, and none of them feel slow. The B16A2 definately has to revved to **** just to get any power out of it, while the B18C1 has much more power down low than the B16A2 and even more down low than the B18C5.
I'll be back to check in on this thread, but I think I've got a very fair comparison since I've driven all 3 swaps in the same car under every condition imaginable.
...And stop being such asses to the guy - it makes the whoile MB look bad and it would drive me away if I was asking the same Q and was new here.
Late y0!
[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 10:30 AM 6/2/2002]