b16 swap studdering and no power
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ap studdering and no power
just got done with my b16 swap and have a few problems. car has no power while driving no matter how open the throttle is. it studders extremely badly and feels like it has a rev limiter of 4 thousand rpms. i thought it might be limp mode but the only code i am throwing is 14(iacv). almost positive this wouldn't cause it correct? tried many things so far to fix it but no luck. one thought is if the two wires for the vtec solenoid were mixed up would it do something like this? also the injectors out of my old cx motor should be enough for the b16 right (aren't they the same size?) thank you in advance.
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Re: ap studdering and no power (hondaman86)
hum, since you redlining at around 4k RPMs, you might want to check the ECU..maybe that can be the prob...
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Re: ap studdering and no power (hondaman86)
definately check your timing again, fix the iacv, no other codes????
alot of time when they run like complete **** like that people switch the tps and map sensor cuz they have the same plug try switchin them and see if it gets any better, but it does sound like a timing issue, whether it's distributor or cam timing you need to figure out
clear the ecu for the hell of it too, disconnect the battery or ecu for at least 5 mins
alot of time when they run like complete **** like that people switch the tps and map sensor cuz they have the same plug try switchin them and see if it gets any better, but it does sound like a timing issue, whether it's distributor or cam timing you need to figure out
clear the ecu for the hell of it too, disconnect the battery or ecu for at least 5 mins
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Re: ap studdering and no power (SIXTY-1HATCH)
cleared the ecu too, checked cam timing and also distributor timing both are dead on. if the map and tps were switched wouldn't it throw a code?
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Re: ap studdering and no power (Gremice)
i was wondering that and im pretty sure that it will, but i was thinkin they operate off of voltage so if they get voltage they might not throw one, i dunno
it won't hurt the car just switch em if it gets worse that aint it, if it's better, well......you know
if there is not other codes and you try that do a compression and leakdown test.
DID you unplug the iacv like i said WITH THE CAR RUNNING, this is how you eliminate the iacv while the car is running unplug the iacv, if the problem goes away you need a new one, if it stays the same thats not the problem.
could be somethng stupid like wiring check everything
usually a bad iacv only harms the idle the while the cars driving
make sure wiring is good on the injectors and pull the spark plugs and see what the look like that will tell you alot especially if its an injector
it won't hurt the car just switch em if it gets worse that aint it, if it's better, well......you know
if there is not other codes and you try that do a compression and leakdown test.
DID you unplug the iacv like i said WITH THE CAR RUNNING, this is how you eliminate the iacv while the car is running unplug the iacv, if the problem goes away you need a new one, if it stays the same thats not the problem.
could be somethng stupid like wiring check everything
usually a bad iacv only harms the idle the while the cars driving
make sure wiring is good on the injectors and pull the spark plugs and see what the look like that will tell you alot especially if its an injector
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#8
Re: ap studdering and no power (SIXTY-1HATCH)
my buddy had the exact same problem, and we found out that the tps sensor was switched with i think the map, ran even better with new spark plugs and a different ecu. hope that helps
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Re: ap studdering and no power (JdmB16Eg6)
not sure.. try this..
2 out of the 3 of these sensors have the same exact harness plugs..
map, iac, and tps
i forget which ones exactly.. but if you have these reversed it will cause the motor to only be able to rev up to around 3k-4k and once reached themotor will crap out n die.. well that was my experience with the situation.. try switching them.. having these two plugs reversed will not throw codes in either device but just cause the motor to run like ****.. not trying to ignore the iac code but that might be an unrelated problem.
if the iac code is being thrown and you have already cleaned out the iac and it is fitted on correctly with the double Oring then i would try running the wires directly to the ecu or if you have a voltmeter check the resistivity of the wires.. if you connect the leads to each ends of a wire and there are no breaks then the voltmeter will read 0 ohlms (greek symbol omega) or very close to 0. may take a few seconds depending on the length of the wire used in your harness. If both wires have no breaks and are in the correct places try replacing with a different ecu.. ive encountered times when the driver for the iac itself was burned out on the ecu. feel free to pm
2 out of the 3 of these sensors have the same exact harness plugs..
map, iac, and tps
i forget which ones exactly.. but if you have these reversed it will cause the motor to only be able to rev up to around 3k-4k and once reached themotor will crap out n die.. well that was my experience with the situation.. try switching them.. having these two plugs reversed will not throw codes in either device but just cause the motor to run like ****.. not trying to ignore the iac code but that might be an unrelated problem.
if the iac code is being thrown and you have already cleaned out the iac and it is fitted on correctly with the double Oring then i would try running the wires directly to the ecu or if you have a voltmeter check the resistivity of the wires.. if you connect the leads to each ends of a wire and there are no breaks then the voltmeter will read 0 ohlms (greek symbol omega) or very close to 0. may take a few seconds depending on the length of the wire used in your harness. If both wires have no breaks and are in the correct places try replacing with a different ecu.. ive encountered times when the driver for the iac itself was burned out on the ecu. feel free to pm
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Re: ap studdering and no power (SIXTY-1HATCH)
on a b16 2 out of the three of those sensors share the exact same size plugs.. not sure which ones.. check it out sometime.. im almost positive its the tps and map that are reversible in terms of size of the plugs.. pretty sure the iac is a much smaller 2 prong plug while the map and tps are both 3 prong and have the same connector
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Re: ap studdering and no power (w0ng_sta)
right map and tps are the same and iacv and intake air are the same
thats what i tryed tellin him earlier to do thats probally it, i can't think of any other sensor that would cause the car to run like **** besides map or tps
thats what i tryed tellin him earlier to do thats probally it, i can't think of any other sensor that would cause the car to run like **** besides map or tps
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Re: ap studdering and no power (w0ng_sta)
yea i am going to go try that as soon as i get off work. if i had the 2 wires from the vtec solenoid plug mixed up would this affect anything? bad diagram so i wasn't sure which one was which. thanks for all the help
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Re: ap studdering and no power (Gremice)
Which connector are you talking about??
the one thats green is the pressure switch, im assuming thats what your talking about, but no it just wouldn't engage in vtec and you would definately throw a code for that if the wire were backwards, did you pin them in the ecu right??
what ecu are you using??
the one thats green is the pressure switch, im assuming thats what your talking about, but no it just wouldn't engage in vtec and you would definately throw a code for that if the wire were backwards, did you pin them in the ecu right??
what ecu are you using??
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Re: ap studdering and no power (staticlude17)
if tps and map are switched no code will be thrown idle will be lil shaky use this diagram to check your vtec solenoid and pressure http://www.hybridgarage.com/tech/5gtech/index.html hope this helps
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Re: ap studdering and no power (aznej2)
ok, so tps and map are definetly correct. switched them and the car would die if i went over 1500 rpms. the ecu is a p28 my car is converted to obd1. vtec is defiently wired up correctly(friend did it who has done it many times before). wierd problem i had from trying something new. it had some aem fpr on there so i took it off and tried an oem one. also moved the map sensor to a different sorce of vacum.( shared with the one my fpr uses) friend did it and said it would be ok. car runs even worse now and won't go over 3500 rpms. i'm guessing it's a fuel problem now... can someone confirm for me that the stock cx injectors are the same size as b16 ones?
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Re: ap studdering and no power (aznej2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznej2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is ur p28 chipped?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it is. bought from a very reputable company so i'd assume it's not messed up?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it is. bought from a very reputable company so i'd assume it's not messed up?
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Re: ap studdering and no power (aznej2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznej2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do u have any other ecu you can try out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i tried my friends po6 that he chipped himself and it ran the same. bad thing is he hasn't chipped an ecu in a long time so he's not sure if he did it right. it did run exactly the same with his ecu though?
well i tried my friends po6 that he chipped himself and it ran the same. bad thing is he hasn't chipped an ecu in a long time so he's not sure if he did it right. it did run exactly the same with his ecu though?