StreetRiot_DRE

My outter boot on the driver side driveshaft ripped and i plan on replacing it with a new one. How do i go about removing the old boot and installin the new one? Can i remove the cv joint to slide out the old and in the new? I have a repair manual that only shows how to remove the inner joint ans says to slide the outter and inner boots in/out from that side. So that would mean i have to remove the inner joint, spider gears, inner boot, dynamic dampner, and finally thw outter boot. Is this the only way or is there an easier way?

StreetRiot_DRE

Also if the only way to do this is by removing tha inner joint and slideing the boot out:

How do i take off the rollers??? The repair manual i have tells me to remove them but not how to

StreetRiot_DRE

bump

Former User

In the end, you might save both time and money by simply replacing the entire axle.

StreetRiot_DRE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RonJ@HT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the end, you might save both time and money by simply replacing the entire axle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah..a replacement axle runs me $60 bucks and the boot kit was only $15...and my axle is already out because i just did a tranny swap.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I've done this a few times.

You should have silicone spray, small two jaw puller, maybe a deablow hammer, vinyl tape, Oettiker clamp pliers, and enough clamps.

You should have (2) large, (3) small per side. The third small clamp is for the damper.

Keep lots of shop rags around because you'll have to wipe grease off of everything including the workbench, the driveshaft, boot, and yourself.

It helps if you have a parts washer because you can just disassemble it in the parts washer and wash as you go.

1.) Cut the bands off of the inboard CV boot and damper ring using a pair of tin snips or side cuts. Sometimes you have to pry the band up a little to get the side cuts in deeper. Don't cut the outboard boot bands yet or you'll make a mess on both ends rather than mostly just one.

2.) Remove the inboard CV casing. It'll just slide off once you peel the boot off of it.

3.) The rollers pretty much fall off of the spider, so you should try to keep the roller with the same leg if possible by labeling them. Wipe off the rollers, mark them and the corresponding position on the spider.

4.) Use the puller to remove the spider. It'll pull off easily using the puller.

5.) Remove the boot and clean off the shaft.

6.) Tape the driveshaft with electrical/vinyl tape from the damper to the end of the inboard side. This will help the damper slide down the driveshaft, as well as mark the original placement of the damper for re-installation.

7.) Use silicone spray and screwdriver to pry up the damper and lube underneath it.

8.) Use the std screwdriver to work the damper up the driveshaft until it comes off.

9.) Cut the bands off of the outboard CV boot.

10.) Remove and replace the outboard CV boot. Squirt the CV joint grease into the boot before closing it up with the outboard joint.

11.) Apply the outboard CV boot bands loosely.

12.) Spray the CV boot band seats with silicone spray to keep the band from binding and tearing the boot.

13.) Use the Oettiker clamp pliers to tension the clamps. Don't tighten them so much that they cut into the boot.

14.) Lube the damper and re-install it to the original marked position.

15.) Use an Oettiker clamp to secure the damper.

16.) Remove the tape.

17.) Install the inboard boot.

18.) Install the spider and rollers. I don't remember if I needed a deadblow hammer to get the spider all the way down or if I called lube it and install by hand.

19.) Grease and install the inboard CV casing or whatever the hells it's called.

20.) Set the driveshaft to nominal length and spray, clamp, and tighen on the boots.

StreetRiot_DRE

^^^^ WOW!! thanks man..you helped me out alot...i was having problems getting the rollers out because the axle it after market but i just used the puller on them too

Runnerdown

You can avoid the inner completely by just popping the outer joint off the axle shaft and swapping boots. A brass punch works perfectly. Its held onto the shaft with a ring just like how the axle goes into the diff.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I know it'll come off and I've tried to knock it off before but it wouldn't come off for me.

SiYouLater

You could also use those quick boots, cut off the old one, slap the quick one on.

Runnerdown

you can't be serious.... everyone knows those are complete junk.

StreetRiot_DRE

thanks to everyone for suggestion, it done, followed "in vec"'s instuction

SiYouLater

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't be serious.... everyone knows those are complete junk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why can't I be serious? I've used them on two cars and three years later there are no signs of leaking, ripping, or noise.

lbcpaul

i'm replacing my outboard boots on a 97 civic, can you describe how to remove the outer joint without removing the inner one?

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Clamp the driveshaft into a bench clamp.

After you pull the outboard CV boot back, place a brass hammer on the outboard joint and then use a small sledgehammer or a 32oz or greater peen hammer to hit the brass hammer until the outboard casing comes off.