rc2904

I have a 99 civic d16 with auto transmission. I was driving and then my speed started decelerating but the engine runs fine and revs up like normal when pressing the pedal.
I came to a stop and verified I could not go forward or reverse. It's basically like the equivalent of having the clutch pressed in on a standard. I shut the car off and started it again and then was able to drive about 20 feet before I happened again.

I'm not very familiar with automatics. Do these symptoms match something somewhat easy to fix or am I going to need to look for a torque converter or a whole new tranny ?

crazyhorse2011

Sounds like your **** crapped out. :/

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Pull the gear selector all the way down to 2. Does it drive there? What about 3?

rc2904

It doesn't matter if it's in 2, d3, d4 or reverse. All will work for up to 30 seconds then all of a sudden it's like having a clutch pedal pushed all the way in and none of them do anything.
Sitting idle for a minute does nothing to help however shutting the car off for minute then starting it again resets the 0-30 seconds of it working.

And after trying this a few times I now have a p0730 code. No others to accompany it.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Is this car all original, or have you replaced the transmission or ECU at some point in the past? That code is for a gear ratio mismatch, which makes me think there's something you aren't telling us.

94EG8

Usually you'll get PO730 when the transmission is slipping. The ratio is incorrect due to slippage. Even if that car has the wrong transmission it will work other than throwing codes and shifting weird, but it wont slip like that.

rc2904

Ive owned this car for only about 4 months. From what I could tell everything appeared OEM except for a short air intake. I did not notice any symptoms of transmission issues until yesterday morning.
Is it worth while to try doing a transmission fluid drain and refill ? And otherwise does this sound like I should be looking for a new torque converter or a whole transmission?

94EG8

Nope.

Both. Most likely you've got debris floating around everywhere inside the trans and torque converter. What tends to happen if you replace just one part or the other is the debris left in what you didn't replace is still floating around and destroys both parts again. At the very least have the torque converter cut open and checked out by a transmission shop and put back together before reusing it. If you look around you can get these things used dirt cheap. I paid $75 for transmission and torque converter together the last time I needed one. Just make sure you get the right trans. CX/DX/LX are the same, EX is unique to itself.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, good to know. As for the last part, I know that much, but how many times have we had people make threads and only give us 20% of the story, then we spend a week of back and forth before finally getting the other 80%? I've become a fan of cutting straight to the chase

Like 94 said, replace it all, and stay within your trim. That transmission is toast.

rc2904

Thanks for the responses guys. I have an update.

I ended up changing the tranny fluid and having the same problem. Then I dumped the new fluid, filtered some crap out of it, then poured it back in.
Did this about a dozen times before it started going through the filter without leaving a bunch of junk. Took it for a 5 mile drive with no issue and filtered the fluid one more time to make sure there wasn't any new crud in it.

In hindsight. I wonder if the filter was clogging up and causing it to act like an automatic that is low on fluid. Then shutting the car off probably let the junk fall from the filter which is why it would drive fine for about 30 seconds again after I would start the car. Too soon to tell if this is a permanent fix but it's looking optimistic. I should probably install an in-line filter to put between the tranny and radiator to prevent this in the future. That or maybe just regular fluid changes would do it. For all I know previous owners may have never changed it.

delsolintegra

I've heard Honda automatics can come back after a couple of fluid changes.

When you drained it did you notice that the drain plug (magnetized) pulled out a long line of filings? If it did it was probably the first time the fluid was changed. After additional changes the filing collection really goes away.

I used Honda fluid that I bought at the dealership.

People denigrate Honda automatics but they take a lot of abuse and neglect and keep on working.

rc2904

Yeah it looks like gray grease on the end of the drain plug. I had a giant blob of it to wipe after draining the original fluid and more the next two or so drainings.

ive been driving it more this evening and no issues yet!

Jimi Hondrix

What did you use to filter the new ATF?

Probably a good idea to remove the shift solenoid and clean or replace screen.

rc2904

The shift solenoid I checked while the original fluid was draining. The screen was clean but I blew everything out with some compressed air to be sure. For filtering the fluid I used some paint strainers. They have a really fine mesh in them and they are cone shaped so I just stuck them inside a funnel. It costs less than a dollar for a 4 pack at lowes so I just got a dozen and used a new one each time to keep track of exactly how much debris was getting filtered out each go around.

Former User

Try three ATF drain-refill cycles with fresh Castrol ATF for Imports rather than re-using ancient ATF that is clearly trashed. Do it right.

rc2904

I did start by draining the old fluid and pouring fresh castrol atf for imports. The tranny was still fucked. So I had to keep draining, filtering, and repouring the new fluid to get more of the garbage to come out so the transmission could function for more than 30 seconds at a time.
Buying 36 quarts to drain and refill a dozen times would have been hella expensive compared to filtering and repouring the new fluid.
I know 3 times is recommended but the crap clogging the filter was so bad it still wasn't driveable until multiple cycles.

For my situation I would say I did it right. My transmission appeared to be fubar and I got my car back to running like a champ while saving myself the labor and cost of replacing the transmission.

Former User

How is doing it wrong right?

Did I miss the part where you fixed the problem?

rc2904

I think you did. Before I did this my transmission would only function for up to about 30 seconds before it would quit working and act like a standard that had its clutch pedal pushed in. This was not an intermittent issue. This happened every single time I would start the car.

Several people on this forum and elsewhere said the transmission is screwed and to replace it.

After I flushed all that crap out the problem is completely fixed. Ive been driving around all day and have not had a single reoccurrence or any unusual behavior from the car at all.

Former User

Northernlightz

Sorted m8

TomCat39

You might also want to add the Magnefine inline transmission filter.

It will collect a lot more of the gunk over the next while and it's cheap.

That way if any more crap breaks loose the filter can nab it up before it goes back into the tranny.

At 16 bucks and a little 3/8 oil hose, the added insurance doesn't hurt.

Magnefine 3/8 Inch Magnetic Inline Transmission Filter

I put it on my wife's car and the shifting has actually become less clunky over time and now feels a lot more in line with what I expected. This is after doing the 3 and 3 routine and still having hard shifts.

Jimi Hondrix

I purchased one of those filters for my '97 civic EX coupe a while ago and couldn't get it on without kinking the the transmission cooler hoses near the radiator. I tried everything and wouldn't work. My plan is to have it installed by a mechanic using a flaring tool and the location will be in the return line on top of the transmission. You mentioned hard shifts, that's what mine does and I hope to smooth it out. I did a 3x3 ATF drain and fill wiith Valvoline Maxlife synthetic and added Lubegard red... didn't help reduce the hard shifts though. I may try Castrol MVI after the Magnefine filter is installed. Where did you install the filter?

TomCat39

I installed it after the cooler, just before the hard line going over the transmission.

Mind you, this is the 5th gen 92-95. The 6th gen might be different.

Here's the photo:

Jimi Hondrix

I tried it that way and it still kinked. I think the metal transmission lines on the 6th gen are closer to radiator's nipple and curved near that end as well. Wouldn't allow enough room to make a bend/curve without kinking. Do you have that pic in a DIY thread somewhere? Seems like I've seen that pic before.

I just noticed you have it zip-tied to the splashgaurd.. maybe, I'll try that and see if helps. Thanks

TomCat39

Not in a DIY but another 4 speed transmission thread. Don't remember if it was my thread or someone elses but I posted it there. I use google and search honda-tech for magnefine and my name and it pulls up the thread for me to reference.

I'm not sure that is going to make a difference for you. I did that after the fact as I didn't like all the free play the filter had after getting it in.

If you have less room to play with, then longer hoses might be required so you can work it in, just for the life of me, I'm not sure where you would stash it.