Kevinarich

Ive just been cruising around the honda tech for a while now, reading about rear brake swaps and such, Im starting to get annoyed with certain individuals making sure that they relay the information that they have read as if its thier own. What Im referring to is the DO NOT USE CROSS DRILLED ROTORS ON YOUR STREET CAR!!! Im so sick of hearing this kinda crap. Most of these guys doing this swap is for the bling, most of these guys that are autoxing arent having problems with them either, well I just thought I would ask if anyone agrees with me, Ive had slotted on my del sol since i bought it, Havent had any problems with it, but I havent braked very hard or anything just drove it around, I have no problems, and if this is all true about how the crossed drilled rotors are dangerous and unless its a time attack car they are completley useless, well... so the f#@%! what. does it matter everyone I know has no problem with them whatsover. oh yeah and you guys need to call brembo and wilwood and tell them that they are making a mistake building these brake kits, because they arent good for the cars on the street. just my thoughts at the moment, go ahead and flame or whatever you need to do after you read this but i just think that its an issue that is pushed to much. snoogins

Slamaccord

iTrader: (1)

I think all these threads are guiding you to a money saving plan.
Spending money on drilled rotors and big brake kits is not a neccesity.
Especially on your street car. They are more of a bling factor if you ask me.

A simple larger rotor setup is fine for me. A good set of pads and some good rotors.
Not no 20.00 autozone rotors. Also you must remember once those drilled rotors eventually get warped and become out of round you can't have them cut by a brake lathe.

Just my .02. I'm not knocking the big brake kits but, I would rather much spend money on a High end header or any pony enlightening bolt-on.

cambopheonix56

I'm with slamaccord.

john666

this is a random post but..
i have slotted/x drilled rotors i think there fine.. i tell people if you drive down the street you wont notice anything. drive 100 miles with them.. drive in the rain. and a bit of aggressive braking with them you'll see. some people say blanks with whatever pads are good.im a bit curious if anyone has used those pads with slotted/ x drilled rotors .. in general tho most people on h-t are just followers, im sure someone will post up the same picture from 5 yrs ago of a cracked drilled rotor with a story about what they heard. i am not saying the rotors are indestruct-able but common sense will tell you wear and tear.

orientalgunz_00

I've had good and bad experiences w/ cross drilled rotors...the difference is not between cross drilled rotors and blank rotors, but between GOOD cdr and BAD/CHEAPLY MADE cdr.

To tell you the truth, i didn't notice any better performance w/ the cdr's. They just look better and up your bling factor. But my first set did crack on me b/c i opted for the cheap way first time around. I found out that the ones i got were blank brembo rotors that were drilled into and sold as cdr's by a different company...these usually tend to crack b/c they're not forged w/ the holes in them...after this set, i spent a little more and bought a true brembo cdr set that were forged w/ the holes. This set didn't crack and i used it for several years until it got worn out. Now i'm rolling on brembo blanks and they feel just the same as the GOOD cdr's...i recommend changing pads w/ the rotors as well to get the maximum potential out of your braking system...

so my advice?...use brembo blanks if you don't want the extra bling...if you want the bling, get the good cdr's b/c you'll be paying for another set if you get the cheap ones...

btw, my car is used for auto-x and mountain runs so i do brake agressively...again these are my own personal experiences and may differ w/ other people...

Otherguy

I cracked some cross/drilled... not good, stick with blanks

schardbody

you sir are an idiot. anything besides BLANKS are a waste of money and merely cosmetic on a street car. do you even know the reasoning for the slots/holes in cross drilled rotors??? i doubt it, you bought your car w/ them and now you find out they are useless and want to get pissed at everyone that says so. OR you actually paid for them and KNOW (unless you are one of them "i put this ebay chip in and gained 10HP, i can feel the differance" kind of person) that they arent any better than a blank, only more prone to cracking, more likely to get rejected at a brake shop, and are just completely overpriced. either way you should inform yourself before trying to educate others.

IF you feel the need to argue about this particular subject please feel free, just do it in an adult manner, and i will be happy to argue/educate you on it.

jdmeg9

ive had integra front cross drilled brembo rotors on my eg for about 5 years and just installed the brembo rears on my eg. no problems with them yet

si0385.

omg this argument again... lets bring up the hoods that are lifted in the back too keep the engine cooler again... how about front air duffs that help the car handle better...

and while were bringing all this up for an argument lets just talk about spoilers

slammed00si

90% of the people in here could not tell you why rotors were slotted or cross drilled to begin with. just my observation from seeing this argument countless times.

jdmeg9

umm they dissipate heat quicker

y7turbo

autozone rotors and axis pads work fine for my street car. i never get brake fade even in heavy braking conditions, its always firm..

i know this setup wont be that good for racing setups but for the street, who needs to spend all that cash..

schardbody

ok, so you think blanks dont dissipate heat well enough... fine.... now explain how that affects the brakes under normal street operation????

IT'S ME DAVID

iTrader: (1)

what about just slotted rotors with hawp or pbr brake pads.

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT’S ME DAVID &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about just slotted rotors with hawp or pbr brake pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hawk pads are loud, hard on the rotors, and just not that great for the street. sure they work, w/ no problems, if you dont care about noise, and changing pads/rotors more often than needed, but definately overkill on a street driven vehicle. the point here isnt that cross drill/slotted rotors dont work, its the fact that they arent needed on a STREET only car. if you are heating the brakes enough to cause brake fade in your car you A) suck at driving B) drive like an idiot C) have other problems w/ your brakes.

Libertariat

Cdr reduce brake fade and dissapate heat better...

The deal is how much aggressive street driving you do and how many tickets you get..



Just bleed you'r stock brakes and get good pads. Clean system will perform like nobody's business.

schardbody

they dissipate heat better, therefore reduce brake fade, if brake fade isnt present they are merely cosmetic.

derspi

OMG, not this again. Once again, misinformation thrown into the mix to confuse matters even more. Drilled out blanks (ie. OE sized cross drilled) offer practically no benefit whatsoever on the street and on the track. They dissipate heat more POORLY than a same sized blank because of reduced mass. A rotor is basically a heat sink, the heavier and/or physically larger the rotor, the greater its' capacity to store heat caused by friction. Once a rotor can no longer store any more heat, you get brake fade.

None of this should be confused with the cross drilled rotors found in a big brake kit. Big brake kits work because of their increased mass and swept surface area. Also, as someone else mentioned, some of these costlier big brake kits as well as Porsche drilled rotors have the holes cast into them for improved strength and durability.

Drilled rotors are for looks and, in most cases, actually result in poorer braking. If you really want better braking, get stickier tires, more aggressive pads and/or a big brake kit.

Tad

heh,
plenty of people use slotted rotors.

but the fact is, they won't help performance at all..
but they do look cool..

the chances of them busting are higher, but thats still probably really low..

IT'S ME DAVID

iTrader: (1)

so what [ads would be best to get.Are pbr better then hawk pads.in less brake dust and in longer lasting.

Syndacate

yeah my friend made the conversion awhile ago...decided he was gonnaconvert all his cars to drilled rotors and save an assload on rotors (b/c he beats the **** out of his rediculously fast cars so he has to brake a lot) - long story short, they went out jsut as fast as regular ones

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT’S ME DAVID &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what [ads would be best to get.Are pbr better then hawk pads.in less brake dust and in longer lasting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

EBC green stuff pads and the cheapest (yes i said cheapest) blanks you can get FTW, end of arguement. green stuff pads are OEM quality, quiet, low dusting, and outperform any off the shelf pad while lasting 40k miles easy.

slkleltlclh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slamaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also you must remember once those drilled rotors eventually get warped and become out of round you can't have them cut by a brake lathe.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
um you can machine warped drilled/slotted rotors by the way. i know this because i've done it before at my school (UTI rancho), and machining drilled/slotted rotors work just as well as blanks.

drilled/slotted rotors basically prevent your rotors from heating up and creating brake fade like schardbody said. and because they dissipate heat from ur rotors, your rotors perform much better. the drilled and slotted rotors actually works better than blank rotors not because because their drilled/slotted but because they carry less heat...alot less heat.

the drilled/slotted part of the rotor might have your car stop quicker, but its more of the heat dissipation part of it.

so basically their not just for looks, they do look nice, but they do help, alot

Tad

yeah. . from what i know, they don't do squat to prevent brake fade.

but hey.. could be wrong i guess..

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slkleltlclh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um you can machine warped drilled/slotted rotors by the way. i know this because i've done it before at my school (UTI rancho), and machining drilled/slotted rotors work just as well as blanks.

drilled/slotted rotors basically prevent your rotors from heating up and creating brake fade like schardbody said. and because they dissipate heat from ur rotors, your rotors perform much better. the drilled and slotted rotors actually works better than blank rotors not because because their drilled/slotted but because they carry less heat...alot less heat.

the drilled/slotted part of the rotor might have your car stop quicker, but its more of the heat dissipation part of it.

so basically their not just for looks, they do look nice, but they do help, alot</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry but you are wrong.... drilled and slotted rotors outperform blanks only when brake fade is present, on a street driven vehicle brake fade should never be a problem, therefore, drilled and slotted rotors are purely cosmetic. they also keep the surface of the friction material (brake pads) wiped clean, everytime you hit the brakes they take a micro amount of pad off keeping the surface clean, smooth, and gas free, and making your wheels brown.