jon570

Figured it was time to start my post to keep track for myself as well as show the single jingle love lives on.

Car: 1994 Honda Del Sol, Started life as an automatic S model i believe. Has somewhere around 280k miles on the chassis. When i bought it (for $200) the whoel interior was gutted and some pieces missing and some were there. The engine was an ls with no head. Coincidentally i had just purchased a 1993 Civic Si that ran amazing but the body was all but gone due to rust. So i spent about three weeks after work and in my spare time swapping everything i could from the Si, to the del sol. The interior is now 100% there and the Si engine and drivetrain and rear disc swap was completed. ( didnt take any pictures of this) ...

Here we are today, its time to build the engine this winter into the spring and the goal is to do a few autocross events and go to some test and tunes to get into drag racing which will hopefully lead to some bigger and better things.

The Goal:
CSS D16z6 Block
Vitara Pistons
Speed Factory No Notch Rods.
ARP Head Studs
all new gaskets for the engine.

Thats really as far as ive planned. The goal is to make approx 400hp. For a few questions come up.

What Fuel pump would be best for this goal. I was looking into the DW400 pump. ( i know its overkill)

Will the stock intake manifold handle the airflow for this power level. Same question for the headwork (cams, and valves) Ive seen high 300s done before but would it be best to just do springs and retainers and a cam just to have that little extra power and rpm range.

What injectors would be best for this goal? I have a friend selling ID1000s, would this also be over kill for 400 ( i do eventually want to make more in a year or two when actually sleeve the block and go full forged internals.

ONTO THE CAR




Started tearing the engine apart. Heres a 280k mile D16 internals. Cylinder walls look AMAZING for that many miles. I will be boring the engine to 75.5 once the CSS Process is done.







Also this winter i will be doing a full bushing replacement, all new brakes and calipers, new master clyinder for the brakes, Engine bay clean up and respray black.

Sorry for the lengthy post and last question. I plane on buying another Si transmission and having it built by Aqua either this winter or next spring summer. Gotta see how much i want to invest into it first. I will be using a stock trans when the engine is done until i get the one back from aqua ( yesi know ill probably blow the final out of a stock one) Any other pieces you guys have suggestions on would be appreciated. I will be doing a traction bar as well. Thanks. Enjoy

jon570

I wil be using S300 for tuning, on 93 Pump gas, i will be considering E85 but the closest station is about 20 miles from me. I was just going to fill up a barrel and bring it home and fill it from that. The turbo pieces will be determined later once i have the engine in my possession and the machine work is done.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

ethanol <3 water. reconsider filling barrels.

jon570

youre right. It wouldnt so much be a barrel as it would a few gas cans that i can use over a weekend or two. i wouldnot store it long term

jon570

So, its been a long time since i have updated this thread. Life happens and things change. Alot have changed with the del sol. Ill try my best to bring you upto speed.
Full eneregy poly bushing kit.
all 4 new calipers pads and rotors.
Stoptech braided fender lines. All brake lines made brand new as well.
Hush Performance booster delete with stock MC
Jegs battery relocate kit to locate the battery in the trunk. ( waiting for kill switch to come in the mail for i can be NHRA approved for that)
Yanaka coils front and rear.
Godspeed rear lower control arms
Godspeed rear sway bar kit.
JB Tuned fuel pump hate upgrade (upgrades the fuel hat to 6an fittings.
JB Tuned full 6an fuel feed and return line upgrade
JB Tune fuel tuck and filter delete kit for the engine bay. ( fuel line is full 6an and feed is 4an)\
AEM 340lph pump
KTuned b/d Shifter X
Poly bushings for the shift rods.
S2K clutch master and adapter plate from JB Tuned.
JB Tuned clutch tuck line
Stock B20B (for now)
Edelbrock Victor X Manifold.
VMS 70mm throttle body
Ry Wire full tuck harness with charge harness and ground harness
Rywire obd2 to obd1 dizzy adapter
OBD1 new alternator.
VMS Crank Pulley

Engine received new Gates timing belt and water pump and tensioner.
Grams 1000cc injectors.
AEM Fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator.
Marshall fuel pressure gauge.
Glowshift Boost and oil pressure,
AEM Wideband set up
Yanaka 6 puck clutch disc (Supposed to be able to hold 400hp.)
cant remember the brand of flywheel. (also new throwout)
ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts.
Blox traction bar kit.


The biggest thing i am most excited about is the transmission. I have sent it to Whoopee doo Racing to be rebuilt with new carbon synchos and MFactory LSD ( ill be picking this up in two weeks when i go to Charlotte NHRA Racing this month)
XSpower ramhorn
Rev9 turbo
Tial 44mm MVS wastegate
Greddy BOV
OMNI power 4 bar map
Moroso Oil pan
Im probably forgetting some stuff but i have updated most stuff on my youtube ( i know know shameless plug) IF youd like to follow along with the build and other builds my friends are doing please come subscribe. Help us grow.

Heres one video feel free to check out our others.

jon570

Forgot to mention. I wanted to build the car so everything was 5-600hp capable. I will only make about 300hp on the b20 but i want to use it to learn. Im getting into drag racing and maybe a few auto cross events this year. So the goal is to learn as much as possible this year and have a build block and head for next year with a better turbo. Im not new to cars or racing in general just havent drag raced anything with actual power.

jon570

Harness bar, seat, racequip harness, M/T slicks and wheels came in among other things. I have gotten all the gauges mounted and the dash put back in. also just installed my arp wheels studs in the front. Rear will be done in the next few months when i replace the rear wheel bearings. Engine fired up and idles amazing. Now to get a solid basemap on the car and finish the 10000 little things and i can road test everything. Chris at Whoopee Doo had to order a new input shaft shim for the trans he is building for me and should have it done this week. Im super excited about that and thank him for his amazing customer service and dealing with my impatient self haha. Also have a k-Tuned shifter x i just installed along with billet shift bushings. Once i receive the trans i can finish up the driveline and double check every single bolt ive touched to ensure nothing is left loose.
Still have to do: (what i can remember)
Tighten Crank pulley
e brake cables
bleed brakes and clutch
install seat and harness bar with harness
install what interior i can.
install cluster and steering wheel
install the coils and adjust
alignment
tighten down the battery hold downs
install radiator and coolant and bleed the system
install intercooler and pipes
install headlights and bumper


My goal is to be done in two weeks and have this at the drag strip on may 25th for my bday. and There is an event at Summit point a friend and i are possibly going to as well. Need to get as much seat time as possible.

tony_2018

jon570

Well just wanted to update. The car is almost 100%. I believe everything ive touched it new or at least rebuilt. I had to order a new intermediate shaft. I had the early version where it needed a male and male end axle versus the newer male female axle. So the intermediate shaft should be here friday and in the mean time i borrowed a friends to get the car going. Ive already had the car running and bled the cooling system. I still need to bleed the clutch. Install the driver axle and throw the wheels on and it should be good to drive. I got the wheels as straight as possible in the garage and will be taking it right to work ( mile down the road) to do a proper alignment. I put in an old radiator i had and it had worked perfect last year but now has leaks. So i got a mishimoto radiator. My ONLY issue thus far is the radiator fan. Due to the downpipe, dump pipe and wideband placement i cant have the fan on the engine side of the radiator. So i will be looking for a push fan to try and install on the intercooler side of the radiator. Any suggestion on a fan that will fit would be greatly appreciated. I got the solid aluminum shifter bushings in and installed the trans, added fluid. The shifting is 12/10 feels amazing. It feels good to have come this far with the car. Once its on the ground ill be posting a youtube video of a walk around in sunlight and showing everything as it is probably by the weekend. I wanted to attend summit point this weekend to run auto cross but the weather is looking crappy. Sorry for the long post.

TL:DR: Cars almost done. haha

jon570

So its been awhile again. The cars running, i currently have a 5 pound spring in the wastegate and on the basemap it runs 11.8-12 afr on full throttle. I want to run 10-13 pounds after its tuned. I have a speed factory 4 port boost controller i still need to install and i feel like the timing belt is a tooth off. When i try to set static timing with my gun it is somewhere around 20 degrees. and i need it to be 16 so i need to check to make sure all the marks line up for my timing belt. Once thats done and the boost controller is installed DRob from IMW will be remote tuning it. He has sent me the base files already i just have been having issues and just now finally have them fixed. So im excited to get this thing rolling and getting it tuned so i can take it to the track this year. I want to go and practice at the track on test n tune days as much as i can. Id be pumped to run a 12 in the car. I would be guessing around the 10-13 pound mark it should make around 300. And yes, i know the sleeves will eventually blow apart in the block and thats fine. I plan on building a motor when this one craps the bed.

jon570

So small updates. Tuning was going good with Derek at IMW. We were tuning into boost and working on a 6 pound spring and the car was feeling amazing. he sent me another map and said we could turn the boos tup a little so i put an 8 pound spring in. I wanted to run ten but went for an 8 because i was getting a little boost creep towards redling. 5.8 psi spring was ending at about 7.2 at 7k rpm. So i went with a 7.8 or 7.9 pound spring with the thought of it creeping towards 10 on the top end. When i was doing the pull for the dataloag on a WOT 3rd gear pull i got to 7k pushed the clutch in and it backfired. I believe this blew the gasket out between the manifold and turbo. So i have an exhaust leaking making the AFR readings far off. So once that fixed itll be back in action to finalize the tuning process. The car runs great and Dereks an amazing tuner. It was fun to be able to remote tune it and i got to drive it and see how much better it got with each iteration. When i have a sleeved and built block i will for sure be towing the car to him since hes fairly local and having him tune it on the dyno. I will also be uploading some videos to youtube for anyone who wants to check those out.

jon570

Exhaust leak has been fixed and the afrs are back where they should be. Were currently on the 14th or 15th iteration of the tune and it feels better every single time. Im completely surprised with how the power is in this car. Second gear will spin even with running an mfactory lsd, traction bars, and 215 r888r tires. The car runs and drives amazing. Cant thank derek enough for this awesome tune. Once the tune is complete im going to be taking the car to my local (hour away) drag strip for a test and tune and seeing what it can do. Im going to run on the r888r once or twice to get the feel of the car then switch to the slicks i have for it and see if it does better. Either today or tomorrow ill be posting a video on youtube with a small driving clip and a pull.

On a side note. I have mishimoto hoses and a mishimoto rad and the temps in this car climb pretty high. Im running a stock fan. Is it just the air flow in these del sols that dont allow much air coming through to the radiator? Granted i have the intercooler in the front and im sure it blocks some air. Are there any tricks or tips anyone had whos had a del sol with the coolant getting too hot? It had a factory temp 179 or 175 degree thermostat and its brand new. Coolant is mixed 50/50.

jon570

Finally got to take the car to a test n tune session. I kept my toyo r888r tires on. This was my first ever time going drag racing. Always been a spectator just never participated. I got to run three times. First time was 14.7 at 101. Second was 14.5 at 105, third was 15.0 at 102. First and second run launch control set at 4200. Spinning tires thru first and part of second. Third run i tried to just keep the rpm around 3k with my foot and slowly launch to try and control wheel spin. Didnt work as expected just resulted in a slower et and still spun lol. I had my slicks with me just just wanted to get a feel for the car and going down the track. I plan on going again in 2 weeks to another session and i will have my slicks on then so hopefully i can run a little quicker. I was also just at rev limiter passing the 1/4 mile in 4th gear. It was also a night even so it was cooler out and the car felt amazing which i will say its all in dereks tune. Its amazing. So next time will be slicks and see what happens. For anyone who checks the youtube ill have a small video out tonight or tomorrow.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

How high of ECTs are you seeing?
Does your ECT come back down after idling?
What settings are you running for the ECU fan control?

I'd recommend upgrading to a Spal fan and a shroud. Some people say not to run a fan shroud, so that's up to you to decide, but I'm running one. I'm not familiar with the ducting on the Del Sol bumper, so I can't speak to that. I ended up going to the highest CFM 12 inch puller fan that Spal makes, running a shroud, and have my ECU set to turn the fan on at 185F ECT and not turn it off until over 91 mph. I'm also running distilled water with a bottle of water wetter in the warm/hot months, and will be switching to Honda Type 2 coolant (it's pre-mixed 50/50) with water wetter in the cold months. Before I was having cruising ECTs from 204-208F, now I'm only seeing 188-190F.

jon570

i was running summit racings no glycol racing coolant at first and it never really saw above 223 going up the highway while datalogging, then i changed the thermostat as a cheap check to see if that was causing any issues, but i had filled it with normal 50/50 coolant. the temps got even high with that once around 230 going up the highway so i pulled over and waited till it cooled down to continue. crusing around town it can hit 200 no problem on a hot day. And i attribute it to the fact my intercooler covers a decent amount of the rad which is why in looking for alternative methods to get air to the rad. I am now running summits coolant again and outside temps are getitng cooler so im sure i wont have anymore issues until next year. I sat in the staging lanes for about 15 minutes with the engine running the other night with w breeze and 60 degree temps and it was fine. So im sure the combination of a hot day outside and crap airflow are the cause of this issue.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

220F+ is really hot. I've got Hondata turning on the CEL at 220F in my car. I highly recommend upgrading to the SPAL 30102029 fan, running it as a puller, and running 12 AWG wires, a 40A fuse, and a relay to control it. I also highly recommend changing the ECU controls for the fan to something similar to what I have. Your thermostat should open around 180-185F. My IC also blocks a good portion of my radiator.

jon570

I do need to upgrade my fan, thats #1 on my list. I will also upgrade the wiring. I believe i have it set to turn on at 165 or 170, and stay on until i hit 55mph. Now, since the outside temp has gone donw a good bit i wont have to worry about the temps much while cruising. But i will be upgrading some stuff over winter and the fan is one of them. I appreciate your feedback.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

No problem. And lastly, just to plug a fellow enthusiast, I would encourage you to at least get a quote from Go-Autoworks if you go with the Spal fan I recommended. I bought mine through him and he beat every other price I could find. He can probably also make a shroud for your radiator if you are interested.

jon570

only downside to mine if i dont have enough room to do a full on puller style fan. I have 2 smaller fans right now offset (which i know dont help a bit with my temp issues) so ive been wanting to switch to a push style so i can fit a larger fan.