Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

I thought to show HT some of the air system going into my DelSol.
This system is going to be used for several different accessories on board.
The first is a large air horn. I have a set of Catapillar air horns that are crazy loud. These are reserved for the retarded and azzholes in the left lane.
The system needs to have a reliable compressor, so I went with a name brand used for air ride called Viair. The 440C model is very tough and meant to be used everyday. It is not their biggest, but I am not moving high volumes.
A proper air system has many components. Each has a specific job to do and make the system reliable. The compressor comes with a braided whip line with a check valve. The check valve assures all air will move toward the system and not back into the compressor. The compressor would be easily overwhelmed without it and put into a locked state.
The next thing you will need is a manifold. The manifold offers multiple options for connectivity to sensors, filters and regulators. Water is an enemy of an air system and makes for multiple problems. Water must be removed or it will destroy many components through corrosion and contamination.
My air system will be operating some very small air cylinders also, that will not like water or debris. I have chosen to use a Parker Coalescing air filter to fully protect the system. This style of filter separates water and automatically drains it every pressure cycle. They are not cheap, but well worth it.
Mounting the compressor and giving it adequate power is important. Do not underestimate the power needed to operate it. 10G wire and a starter solenoid will work well. Even 40amp relays are getting very hot supplying power to these hungry compressors. The manifold allows me to install the whip line from the compressor. Also, it mounts the cut out/ cut in switch needed to automatically control the compressor. This switch sets the system's operating pressure and is VERY important. This switch controls the relay powering the compressor. It is also handy to have a manual off switch for servicing the system.
Another connection to the manifold is the air horn line. This line runs a short way to the air solenoid that operates the horns. A relay must be used to control the solenoid as the horn switch will not alone be able to power it. I have a separate horn switch for the air horns and the normal horn works as well. The manifold also connects the filter assembly which supplies air to another check valve and the regulator. The air horns do not need to be filtered and will rapidly remove any water in the line.
There needs to be an air tank to store the air, often called an accumulator. I have mounted the air tank underneath of my car in a perfect spot. The air tank is protected inside and out with paint from the manufacturer. There also needs to be a drain on the bottom of the air tank for water removal. All of this is not pictured yet but will e updated as the install is completed. It was very difficult to rework the air tank's factory brackets to work under the DelSol, but was well worth the effort. It hangs off of the rear frame and is very solidly mounted. The air horns snuggle very closely to the compressor and pass through the trunk floor to blast under the car. It makes no difference which way these horns point, the noise is ridiculous!
As I continue to get more components installed, I will post up detailed pics.

sidewayz2013

Looks pretty good so far man. Although, I'd put in some grommets where the holes are for the horns.

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Exactly. I have a bunch of stuff coming in to finish the back end install. I have some large grommets for the horn feed through and the line going to the tank. The rest of the AN fittings and lines are on their way also.
I have made a support bracket for the top of the main bracket that eliminates any vibration. I also still have to fabricate the filter and regulator mount. I plan on attaching them to the strut tower bolts nearby.

I will be installing all of the factory trunk covers to when it's finished. A lot of time goes into planing the instal, making brackets and running lines etc.. This is just mocked up right now for the thread pics.

sidewayz2013

It is incredibly refreshing to see someone who knows what they're doing.

tony_2018

omfg......please continue.

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Of course I will give the full scoop. Just today I got most of the rest of the components in and will update this shortly. I love customizing cars.
I can't wait to show you guys all of what the air system will control.

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Today I was very busy but did manage to make an important bracket to mount the filter/ regulator assembly. When I get a chance to make the short run hoses it will connect this to the manifold at the top. There is a reason for connecting it here.
A properly designed air system will last a very long time. Air isn't dry. Air carries water vapor and is condensed inside the system. Water is corrosive in some parts like the storage tanks. Water is damaging to regulators and system sensors, especially when cold enough to freeze. It must be carried away by some means of regular draining or automatic means. Water is heavier than air and will puddle and flow down a line or manifold.

When air is being compressed and stored, it should travel quickly to a storage tank. This is how it is set up here. The compressor discharge line enters near the top of the manifold and spills straight down to the under trunk storage tank. The direct path allows near 100% of the water vapor to reside in the tank below. The tank has a manual drain that has a pull cable to easily drain water without tools or trouble. The drain is the bottom most fitting. Unless air is moving through the forward part of the system; all of the compressed air will enter the tank. This will increase the systems life span greatly by removing almost all the water this way. The secondary filter has an auto drain built within it. A mini float will control a valve when water is sensed and release it. I will direct this drain out through the trunk right at the very bottom. This auto drain can be seen easily and is the black fitting on the filter body bottom.
Later, when the air in the tank is needed for something, it has to go up hill. This also reduces any water from entering the controls, sensors and regulator. If the system were laid out horizontally; water would very easily travel about and put the secondary filter to work. The air after leaving the manifold at the top port turns and enters the water and debris filter assembly (coalescing type), and then once very clean and dry begins to be checked by a valve causing the air from this point to only flow forward. The forward flowing air enters the system regulator and is set for service pressures that the vehicle needs. This regulator can not flow a large amount and doesn't need to either. It will briefly control valves and pistons and supply downstream regulators. The air horns need A LOT of fast moving air. They are so passive that a regulator would have to be very large and there is no point to regulate the air entering the horns. The horns air flows from a tap on the manifold and gets switched by an air solenoid. This solenoid briefly makes a very large flow path that will sound the horns well. Because the horns are pointing down, no bugs or water get to ruin the trumpets or diaphragms that sound them.

This is what I have done so far. More to come soon.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

While I'm not a huge fan of anything that adds weight to our cars (especially the weight of an entire air system, woof), at least you're doing it the right way. I've seen too many automotive air systems with no coalescer. RIP air system.

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Zackly!

Thank you.

cdude

amazingly well done.

tony_2018

Even with the coalascar...whatever...shouldn't the tank be drain from the bottom valve to ensure there are water sitting at the bottom of the tank?

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Yeah. That is correct. I have a manual and easily accessible cable pull to drain the bottom condensation out just like the big rigs use. The 2 gallon air tank I have will hold a lot of water even if periodic drains were missed. The coalesce/filter is far above and downstream and has an auto drain.

The air demand downstream is VERY low. It is not flowing like the air horn side at all. Moving a piston in an air cylinder is like nothing volume speaking. Also, the regulators that control the forward functions are similarly LOW flow. It is very hard to move water upstream in a low flowing air system.

On the other hand, at my shop I have a vertical 80 gallon compressor tank with an air take off fitting about 3 feet above the bottom on it's side. I then have a trap which comes directly off the tank and a long pipe manifold with a slight taper that drains back to the trap. When I am using very air hungry die grinders and sanders, water will still climb out of the tank and flow like a fine spray alerting me that the big tank has about 1/2 gallon of water in it. That's it, 1/2 gallon and it will move through a high demand system easily.