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AGX / Tanabe BUMPSTOP ?'s PLZ HELP!!

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Old 03-23-2004, 06:39 PM
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Default AGX / Tanabe BUMPSTOP ?'s PLZ HELP!!

Ive got tanabe df210 springs, and kyb agx struts. the springss came with bumpstops. 2 different types of bumpstops, question is, which go up front, which go in back? Bumpstop A is about 1/4" taller than the other one, it onle has a tiny 1/8" cut out around the diameter for the thing to compress when pushed, and when you push on it it compresses very little. Bumpstop B is 1/4" shorter, has 2 1/4" rings cut around the edges to compress with, and when you push down on it it is considerably easier to compress. SO which goes up front, which goes in rear?

1 more question, the agx struts are top adjustable. they come with 2 nuts(im assuming 1 is a spare), and another 1/4 inch spacer type piece that is tapered with a bigger opening on one end with a smaller on the other end. Where does this spacer go in relation to the nut? above or below? and which side faces up, bigger opening or smaller?

thanks for lookin and for helping!
God Bless!!

Rob

Old 03-23-2004, 07:33 PM
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Default Re: AGX / Tanabe BUMPSTOP ?'s PLZ HELP!! (whitelightnin)

Well I am glad to see someone else using Tanabe springs and KYB AGX's. I have installed two sets of Tanabe springs and KYB AGX's and I didn't use the bump stops that came with the Tanabe springs, because I had the same problem as you I can't read Japanese and I could not figure out which bump stop went up front and which went in the rear. So I just cut the factory bump stops alittle and I have never had any problems in two years. Some of the KYB AGX's come with two regular nuts, and some come with a single lock nut. It sounds like your shocks came with two regular nuts for each shock, so what you want to do is after you have put the spring shock Assembly back together you tighten one nut down to specs then with the other nut it is meant as a lock nut, so you lock the two nuts together so it doesn't loosen up. The Tapered bushing that came with your shocks I never use that I use the factory OEM Honda tapered washer on top of the bump stop, the KYB One is not safe to use in my opinion. Well hope this helps, if you need more help, or can't understand what I am saying just let me know I will try to help out. Later, Jordan.
Old 03-24-2004, 08:15 AM
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Default Re: AGX / Tanabe BUMPSTOP ?'s PLZ HELP!! (haccord2.2)

thanks man...

I've got the df210's which is the most drop available, like 2 1/2". How much do you think i should cut the bumpstops with that kinda drop?

do you know the ft/lbs to tighten that top bolt?

thanks again for the info...im sure some new questions will arise eventually (hope not)

God Bless,
Robert
Old 03-24-2004, 09:21 AM
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Default Re: AGX / Tanabe BUMPSTOP ?'s PLZ HELP!! (whitelightnin)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whitelightnin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks man...

I've got the df210's which is the most drop available, like 2 1/2". How much do you think i should cut the bumpstops with that kinda drop?

do you know the ft/lbs to tighten that top bolt?

thanks again for the info...im sure some new questions will arise eventually (hope not)

God Bless,
Robert</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I had the old school Tanabe 2'' Super Down Procedeo lowering springs on my accord with KYB AGX's, I cut the factory bump stops right in half, that should do the trick for you, but you might want to take off just a tad bit more than that to be on the safe side. I have the Tanabe GF210 Springs, but have not installed them on my hatch yet because I don't have the money for shocks and other parts yet, but I installed the GF210 lowering springs and KYB AGX's on my friends 98 Integra and I think we cut his bump stops almost in half or alittle less, it was only like a 1.5 or 1.75" drop, but it is pretty low on the integra.

As for the factory tq. on the shock Piston rod, I am not sure at the moment I am at college and don't have my manual up here, but I always just snug the nut pretty good with a wrench while holding the piston rod shaft with the right sized little wrench, and then I get another same size wrench for the other nut and lock the two together. You don't want to have it super tight, other wise you could snap off the end of the piston rod, but it needs to be tight just make sure to be very carefull not to over tighten the nuts, because I have seen and heard of people snaping off the upper piston rod by tightening it to much. You will figure it out once you get working on it. Well just ask if you have anymore questions, and if anyone wants to add in some info please do. Later, Jordan.
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