bestofthe80s

Hey all,

I have been looking into a swap project, my first ever. Have a 1994 civic sedan, for sentimental reasons am turning into a project car. This car currently has a D15B7 and Automatic Trans with high miles and a bad head gasket.

I have access to a low mile donor car with a D16Y7 with a manual transmission. I am looking for any and all advice or help regarding the swap. I have read a few forum posts from years ago and most of the pictures aren't working anymore. I have do transmission swaps and lots of brake/suspension work but never a swap.

As far as I can tell, they are both non-vtec and the D16y7 OBDII can be bolted right in and use the D15B2 harness, dizzy, alternator, axles and ecu and fire right up with no codes.

One thing I am not sure of is the transmission. Will this manual transmission from a 2000 civic work on my 94 civic? If so, what else works, do I get the clutch cylinder, pedal and linkage from the donor car? or do I need parts from another junkyard 94 civic that had a manual?

Also for smogging this thing in california, will I have issues? The emissions should me similar if not better I assume. My current car burns coolant and has been given the beejeezus right to the redline too many times.. it passes now but just barely.

Thanks all!

TomCat39

To clarify, you only use the head and the block of the D16Y7 for this to bolt up and use your existing OBD1 D15B7 harness and ECU. You have to keep the complete intake and exhaust manifolds for all the sensor plugs to stay OBD1. Exhaust is the only spot that can stay bolt on only but only if you can successfully get your O2 sensor out. So I find it's just easier to keep the B7 exhaust manifold instead of trying to mess with seized O2 sensors.

I know the transmission itself from the 2000 (assuming D series tranny not the B16 tranny of the SiR) will bolt up no problem, clutch and all. The externals will very likely need to be pulled from a 92-95 manual, like slave cylinder, clutch fluid lines, clutch master cylinder etc. As well, you will need the pedal setup from the 92-95 manual and the shift linkage as well as transmission mounts of the 92-95.

This is only an educated guess but I think the D16Y7 is close enough in spec to the D15B7 that with the B7's intake, fuel and exhaust setup, the B7 ECU will likely be able to pass emissions on that Y7 motor.

Also you will have to convert your D15B7 ECU from an auto to a manual. It's a simple process of cutting out two resistors and soldering in one jumper wire if I recall correctly. It is something you will need to research if you have not already.

TomCat39

There was one other detail I forgot to mention.

The D16Y7 has a 12* BTDC ignition timing and the marks on the crank pulley are set for that.

The D15B7 uses a 16* BTDC ignition timing.

You will need to add your 16* mark on the crank pulley. The 3 marks together on the pulley of the Y7 I believe are at 10*, 12* and 14* as well as the lone 0* TDC mark away from the other 3. It goes without saying, the 16* mark will be exactly the same distance past the 14* as the 14* is from the 12*.

bestofthe80s

That is awesome advice, thank you so much!

Another question.. I am thinking about just swapping the engine in for now and hanging on to the bits for a manual conversion for this summer. Will the Y7 bolt right up the the automatic that the B7 was using?

Also, I have only messed with automatic transmissions on my accord, and have only tinkered with manuals transmissions on my old crx (RIP). Should I do anything while I have it all apart? Should I get a new torque converter while I have it all open, or anything else?

Thanks again! I am getting stoked for this project.

bestofthe80s

Also, how much does the block and head weigh together? What is the best way for a driveway mechanic to move this engine into place if there is no access to a cherry picker?

TomCat39

Yes the auto bolts up just fine, you just have to pull off your flywheel and put on the flex plate for the torque converter. Then you don't have to go about messing with mounts yet either, just keep all the mounts you had from the auto.

While it's cracked open, I would replace the rear main seal. I don't worry about the torque converter unless it was having problems. An inline Magnefine filter will help clean up the fluid. Which in turn will help clean up the converter and all the valve bodies etc.

Well, that's a chore. If you don't have an engine hoist, you could potentially drop it to the ground on a furniture dolly, then lift the front of the car up with a 60" farm jack and roll the engine out from underneath.

I personally haven't done a swap without an engine hoist. You can rent them for a weekend for not much cash.

bestofthe80s

Thanks again for the advice. I will have to read up on how to replace the rear main seal. This automatic transmission has always been fine and flushing it's fluids last year made it even better. I do need to get a hoist, I tried using ratchet straps to lift a transmission and it sucked .

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

my current shitbox daily is a db7 integra, powered by an obd-1 converted y7. use the b7 manifolds, distributor, alternator, etc. b7 ecu runs it just fine, i passed tailpipe emissions with flying colors and my motor is fairly ragged out. i have never once used an engine hoist in the dozens of swaps i've done, i find it much easier to drop the swap out from the bottom. make a dolly from 2x4's and decent casters... you can actually slide a jack under it and lift into place.i have had no issues with timing or otherwise, and i am using the y7 pulley. the clutch slave cylinders are the same, the lines actually interchange as well, they just dont sit as pretty as oem would. master cylinder changes over, and if you're feeling lazy you can use the clutch pedal from the donor ek and trim your existing brake pedal. shift linkage, axles, all the same. as to lifting the car high enough to slide the engine in and out, take your spare tire, flip it upside down onto the lift point of a floor jack. center under the exhaust tunnel nearest the firewall, and lift. with my standard harbor freight $79 special, i have 6" extra clearance. don't overthink it and you'll be fine.