GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Hey all,

my AC is not producing a lot of cold air. It can barely keep up on like 80F or 90F degree days. I know the air becomes cold when I am cruising around 40+ MPH. At slower speeds, the AC isn't great.

I replaced the pulley and put a new belt and Freon in it.

I was considering replacing the entire system, but I'm wondering if maybe I don't need to.

What do you all suggest I do?

Honda Civic 1995 VX HB.

Former User

Does the condenser fan run?

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

How would I check that?

Where is it?

I believe it is, because when the AC kicks on, the air instantly gets noticeably colder?

Former User

What car do you have?

The condenser fan sits right next to the radiator fan, but on the driver's side.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Honda Civic 1995 VX HB.

Former User

Raise hood. Turn key to ON(II). Turn on cabin blower and press A/C button. Check whether condenser fan runs.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the fan turns on.

Former User

Check whether the condenser fins are clogged with bugs and debris or the fins are bent, preventing proper air flow through the condenser.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

The condenser is free of obstructions and the fins are not bent.

Former User

When air from the A/C blows warm, check whether the compressor clutch has disengaged and whether the condenser fan has stopped running.

What pulley did you replace and give details about your addition of refrigerant.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes when the AC blows warm air, I can feel the clutch disengage. A small period of time could pass before I hear it engage again. Of course, the AC button on the dash will still be lit the entire time. Other times, I just have to rev the RPM's higher to get MORE cold air to blow. The AC clutch would still be engaged during that scenario.

Former User

This is one issue to chase out.

Did the idle speed drop low to cause you to rev the engine?

Which scenario is more common?

Address these points.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

The idle speed drops when the AC clutch kicks on, yes. Sometimes the car will constantly rev up and down about 500-1000 RPM's when I'm sitting at a traffic light idling. I wouldn't say it's forcing me to rev the engine, but I do notice the AC becomes to get a tad warmer when the RPM's drop. Sometimes I will hold the RPM's to about 1500 to get the air back if I am sitting at a traffic light.

I recharged the system a few months ago using this product. Mind you, my system was 100% dry when I charged it.

AC Pro Professional Formula Refrigerant
AC Pro Professional Formula Refrigerant - Walmart.com

I bought a pulley from Advanced Auto. I forget the brand name. I could find out if you really needed the info. I also did the belt at the same time. Just to add some information, my belt does have a nasty squeak that comes on at random intervals. I was told I need to tighten the tensioner.

Former User

<p></p><p>The idle speed should rise when the A/C kicks on.</p><p>With respect to the bolded text, does the surging idle only occur when the A/C is on or is this a separate issue?</p><p></p><p>Why was the system empty? &nbsp;Is there a leak? &nbsp;If so, did you fix it?</p><p>Before adding refrigerant to the empty system, did you replace the receiver/dryer, add oil, and place the system under a deep vacuum for an hour or more? &nbsp;If so, did the system hold vacuum?</p><p>What weight of refrigerant did you add?</p>

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

The surging idle only happens when the AC is on. It doesn't happen all the time, but the AC has to be on for it to happen. If you press the AC button, immediately the car's idle returns to normal.

The system was empty from the last owner. It wasn't charged in at least 3 or 4 years. I don't know of any leaks. I did not replace anything of what you mentioned here. I did not do a vacuum test. I literally went to Walmart and bought a recharge kit and filled it to the appropriate weight recommended by Honda. I forget what that number is. I can tell you the recharge kit I used does include the oil with the refrigerant.

Former User

<p></p><p>An empty system generally indicates a system leak. &nbsp;Over time, a&nbsp;leak not only depressurizes the system by releasing the refrigerant, it also allows air to enter the system. &nbsp;Air and moisture in an A/C system are destructive. &nbsp;The air and moisture in your system are likely causing the cooling and idle problems, and you also may have overcharged the system.</p><p>Unfortunately, the A/C fix in a can you bought fails to tell the consumer not to use the product if the system is empty, which typically means there's air and moisture in the system. &nbsp;I'm also concerned about the &quot;leak fixing additive&quot; in the product as such additives can gum up an A/C system. &nbsp;In the future, strictly avoid &quot;fix&nbsp;in a can or bottle&quot; products.</p><p>If you wish to fix the A/C issue, you need to start from scratch and hope that the can additive does not compromise the performance of your system.</p><p>In a nutshell, this is what you need to do:</p><p>Take your car to a shop and have them recover all of the refrigerant&nbsp;in the system. &nbsp;</p><p>Replace the receiver/dryer, and then place the system under a deep vacuum (&gt;27 in Hg) for 2 h to see whether the system holds&nbsp;vacuum to test for a leak.</p><p>If the system does not hold&nbsp;vacuum, add a small amount of refrigerant containing a leak detecting dye so that you can locate the leak and fix it.</p><p>Once the leak is fixed and&nbsp;holds vacuum, then recharge with oil and proper weight of refrigerant.</p>

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Will most shops do this process diligently? Will they skip any of the steps, etc? I don't know if they will do the tests as you prescribed.

I might replace the receiver/dryer from Advanced Auto Parts or AutoZone. They have 20% off going on right now. Is there anything else I need?

Former User

<p></p><p>Any competent, respectable shop would do exactly what I described, though the process is easier for them as they should have a Recovery/Recycling/Recharging Station. &nbsp;Walk away from any shops that tell&nbsp;you what I&nbsp;described is unnecessary.</p><p><img src="http://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-tech.com-vbulletin/362x532/80-picture_9940_fd0884c7e61b8df49725b8cf46d91ebe46f53 415.jpg" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p><p></p><p>Replace &quot;might&quot; with &quot;will&quot; or don't do the work at all. &nbsp;Are you planning to pay a shop to do all of the work or are you planning to do it?</p>

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I meant to say that I might feel more comfortable supplying the part myself. I guess it depends on how much I can get it for and with what warranty.

I am familiar with the recycling equipment. I will tell the shop to test the system and check for leaks, etc.

Former User

<p></p><p>If you are paying a shop to do the work, then your success depends on being an informed consumer who chooses a shop on their competence and reputation rather than just a low price. &nbsp;Again, any shop that does not recover the current refrigerant,&nbsp;which is almost surely contaminated with air and moisture, would be doing you&nbsp;a disservice&nbsp;in the long run.</p>

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I agree with you on that one. I'm almost wondering who to go to. It's hard to find a good shop around my area. I've dealt with at least over 4. I do know which ones have the recharge machine.

Former User

<p>Do your homework. &nbsp;Read the service manual A/C chapter to inform yourself on&nbsp;A/C Service Tips and Precautions,&nbsp;A/C System Discharge,&nbsp;Performance Testing, and&nbsp;A/C System Evacuation, Charging&nbsp;and&nbsp;Leak Testing. &nbsp;This way you can have an intelligent discussion with the service manager, and he will know that he can't just bullshit you and you will know whether he's the right or wrong shop for the job.</p><p><img src="http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-tech.com-vbulletin/307x582/80-picture_9941_6ef6c6e4f0162b457ac5f2551e2dfce29277e 54c.jpg" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>

tony_2018

^^

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I went to a shop that I reasonably respect. I didn't do anything with the AC that day because I was short on time. They indicated to me they would be willing to test the system for 30 minutes to see if it holds pressure. I explained that I want a full 2 hour workup on the unit, etc. They said that's fine too, but I would have to schedule that in when my schedule permits it.

I'll keep you updated. I think I can have this done sometime next week or maybe even this Friday.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Update: I'm gonna have the car looked at next week. I've been working so much. There's no time to get it done any sooner.

The recommendation from one shop is just to get all new AC components. That way I'll know everything is new. I'm not seriously opposed to the idea. I just hope it solves my issue.

The AC pulley is still squealing from time to time. It was adjusted a month ago. I'll get that looked at again too.