About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze
#1
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About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze
Well I bought two premixed bottles of antifreeze to change out mine because it mysteriously vanished. My car is begining to over heat and the idle is going up and down
Ok well my question is, what should I do when i change it?
Is there anything I do besides draining it and putting in new antifreeze? Anything I can do to maybe prevent it from draing out again?
thanks
Ok well my question is, what should I do when i change it?
Is there anything I do besides draining it and putting in new antifreeze? Anything I can do to maybe prevent it from draing out again?
thanks
#2
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (kingpen)
if your car is starting to overheat u should change the thermostat and waterpump,
#3
Former Moderator
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (kingpen)
First of all antifreeze/coolant doesn't just disappear. It must be leaking from somewhere. I suggest you find that leak before you cook the motor.
As far as the drain/fill goes, it's easy.
Make sure the car is pretty cool when you do this to avoid getting burned.
1. Take off the cap.
2. Loosen the white plastic **** on the bottom tank for the radiator and drain the fluid into an enviromentally safe conatiner and dispose of it properly ().
3. Tighten the plastic ****.
4. Depending on your car you might have to loosen a bleeder valve on the upper waterneck leading into the head on your motor when refilling with coolant.
If you have the 10mm bleeder, fill the radiator until coolant oozes from the bleeder valve.
If no bleeder (newer cars) fill and squeeze the top hose and continue filling and squeezing until you see no bubbles.
That's about it.
As far as the drain/fill goes, it's easy.
Make sure the car is pretty cool when you do this to avoid getting burned.
1. Take off the cap.
2. Loosen the white plastic **** on the bottom tank for the radiator and drain the fluid into an enviromentally safe conatiner and dispose of it properly ().
3. Tighten the plastic ****.
4. Depending on your car you might have to loosen a bleeder valve on the upper waterneck leading into the head on your motor when refilling with coolant.
If you have the 10mm bleeder, fill the radiator until coolant oozes from the bleeder valve.
If no bleeder (newer cars) fill and squeeze the top hose and continue filling and squeezing until you see no bubbles.
That's about it.
#4
Former Moderator
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (careawholelot)
if your car is starting to overheat u should change the thermostat and waterpump,
It could just be a minor leak that is emptying his radiator.
When dealing with a problem don't start at the more difficult problems - start with the easiest ones.
I have never seen a waterpump just **** out unless it was way overdue for a change, which is 90,000 miles.
Thermostats?
Yes. But you can have a 100% functional thermostat but if the cooling system has a leak the good thermostat won't help.
#5
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (B18C5-EH2)
the radiator is nearly brand new. and i have noticed it leaking oncee, but the fluid was under the a/c not the radiator
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (B18C5-EH2)
DONT FORGET #3!!
when i filled mine last night i forgot to put the plug back in and let about 1/4 gallon of coolant and water go all over my garage..
this is so true...
good work tom.
when i filled mine last night i forgot to put the plug back in and let about 1/4 gallon of coolant and water go all over my garage..
if your car is starting to overheat u should change the thermostat and waterpump,
Not necessarily.
It could just be a minor leak that is emptying his radiator.
When dealing with a problem don't start at the more difficult problems - start with the easiest ones.
I have never seen a waterpump just **** out unless it was way overdue for a change, which is 90,000 miles.
Thermostats?
Yes. But you can have a 100% functional thermostat but if the cooling system has a leak the good thermostat won't help.
Not necessarily.
It could just be a minor leak that is emptying his radiator.
When dealing with a problem don't start at the more difficult problems - start with the easiest ones.
I have never seen a waterpump just **** out unless it was way overdue for a change, which is 90,000 miles.
Thermostats?
Yes. But you can have a 100% functional thermostat but if the cooling system has a leak the good thermostat won't help.
good work tom.
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#8
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (kingpen)
ABOUT the tube connetcet to the top of the radiator
can i spray water through it to drain the system of all antyifreeze
can i spray water through it to drain the system of all antyifreeze
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (kingpen)
hey, i have had the exact problem before, blew a headgasket, smoke everywhere, DO NOT LET IT OVERHEAT!!!.....unless you're looking to do an engine swap, which is what i ended up doing. If the radiator's new, check both upper and lower radiator hoses. ADDITIONALLY there are heater hoses connected from your block to your firewall that also have coolant in them. if you're leaving fluid on the ground it's definately a problem.
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (KAMiN)
DONT FORGET #3!!
when i filled mine last night i forgot to put the plug back in and let about 1/4 gallon of coolant and water go all over my garage..
if your car is starting to overheat u should change the thermostat and waterpump,
Not necessarily.
It could just be a minor leak that is emptying his radiator.
When dealing with a problem don't start at the more difficult problems - start with the easiest ones.
I have never seen a waterpump just **** out unless it was way overdue for a change, which is 90,000 miles.
Thermostats?
Yes. But you can have a 100% functional thermostat but if the cooling system has a leak the good thermostat won't help.
this is so true...
good work tom.
when i filled mine last night i forgot to put the plug back in and let about 1/4 gallon of coolant and water go all over my garage..
if your car is starting to overheat u should change the thermostat and waterpump,
Not necessarily.
It could just be a minor leak that is emptying his radiator.
When dealing with a problem don't start at the more difficult problems - start with the easiest ones.
I have never seen a waterpump just **** out unless it was way overdue for a change, which is 90,000 miles.
Thermostats?
Yes. But you can have a 100% functional thermostat but if the cooling system has a leak the good thermostat won't help.
this is so true...
good work tom.
If its leakin then i would look for the leak and see if you cant find it.. dont change **** till you find out just what the prob is..
#11
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (Hatchy-Ownzjo0)
i just took it out and fiulled with water
found no leaks
i fully cleaned that sucker and put in premiexd coolant (as opposed to zntifreeze mixed with dirty water.) If this fails... i take it out again buy new hoses etc. Hopefully the problem is solved
found no leaks
i fully cleaned that sucker and put in premiexd coolant (as opposed to zntifreeze mixed with dirty water.) If this fails... i take it out again buy new hoses etc. Hopefully the problem is solved
#12
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (kingpen)
This happened to me and I thought I had a huge leak. I turned out to be air pockets. Most likely you have air pockets in your system. Did you pour in the coolant, the leave the radiator cap off and start the car? You need to do this until you don't see any bubbles coming up from the radiator. Then add more if needed. Fill the overflow tank and you should be good to go.
#13
HT White Ops
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (B18C5-EH2)
if your car is starting to overheat u should change the thermostat and waterpump,
Not necessarily... It could just be a minor leak that is emptying his radiator... I have never seen a waterpump just **** out unless it was way overdue for a change, which is 90,000 miles...
First, a Honda CiViC runs on a gallon (1-gallon) of coolant. It doesn't take much of a leak for it to disappear and overheat. A single unnoticed pin-hole leak will do the job nicely!
Secondly, water pumps DO wear out, especially when you use sh!tty antifreeze which have borates and silicates (which is just a fancy way of saying fine-particled sand) in them. A water pump is actually nothing more than a impeller spinning at high-speed. Antifreeze with borates and silicates will, over time, 'sand' the impeller down to nothing, and the water WILL quit circulating, causing overheating.
Anyway, carry on...
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (kingpen)
the radiator is nearly brand new. and i have noticed it leaking oncee, but the fluid was under the a/c not the radiator
Common problem for Hondas. Happened to mine at 70,000 miles, and incidentally, I was using non-Honda coolant for most of the life of the car.
Shawn
#15
Former Moderator
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (shawnhayes)
Butting heads are we?
I'm sure it might *seem* like a common problem to some of you, but I assure you that in all my years of working in dealers (3 dealers, and the shop I'm at now) I've not ever seen a single premature waterpump failure.
Perhaps incorrect install or way overdue for a change? Yes, but to say it's a "common problem" for the waterpump to leak from the "weep hole" isn't really true.
Maybe it's just everywhere but Georgia?
I'm sure it might *seem* like a common problem to some of you, but I assure you that in all my years of working in dealers (3 dealers, and the shop I'm at now) I've not ever seen a single premature waterpump failure.
Perhaps incorrect install or way overdue for a change? Yes, but to say it's a "common problem" for the waterpump to leak from the "weep hole" isn't really true.
Maybe it's just everywhere but Georgia?
#16
New User
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (kingpen)
the radiator is nearly brand new. and i have noticed it leaking oncee, but the fluid was under the a/c not the radiator
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (B18C5-EH2)
I'm sure it might *seem* like a common problem to some of you, but I assure you that in all my years of working in dealers (3 dealers, and the shop I'm at now) I've not ever seen a single premature waterpump failure.
It still "lost" antifreeze unexplainedly. Very slow loss, almost negligible.
At year six and 70,000 miles, I stopped the car at my apartment after a 30 mile run. I took out the garbage and noted coolant dripping from the left side of the engine. Ah HA, I thought, now I can find the leaking hose. NOPE. It was dripping down the left side of the timing cover. I took it to the dealer, and they told me the water pump was leaking, but I was nearly due for timing belt change anyway, so we did both.
Coolant loss stopped immediately and permanently. Never lost another drop until I swapped the motor at 100,000 miles.
Perhaps incorrect install or way overdue for a change? Yes, but to say it's a "common problem" for the waterpump to leak from the "weep hole" isn't really true.
Normal schmucks who go to dealers aren't going to experience this anyway, Why? Because the stock coolant stays in the car the whole life, until timing belt change time comes around, and then you replace the water pump as a matter of hassle reduction.
Tuners will also never see this problem. They also will replace the timing belt and water pump before it occurs, and they are probably either using Dex-cool, or Honda antifreeze, which is better than the cheap antifreeze at preventing this problem.
The giveaway for this case, I think, is that he is seeing coolant on the LEFT side of the motor, near the AC (at least I think that's what he's saying). It's awful hard for the radiator/heater hoses on the right side of the motor to drip all the way over there. The only other thing on the left side of the motor is the main hose on the back of the motor, and I guess that can leak that way, but I've never seen that leak before.
Opinions?
Shawn
#18
Former Moderator
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (shawnhayes)
Once again thanks for your own personal testimony that proves to me that it happened to YOU.
I don't work at a dealer now, and since our labor rates are cheaper we get a lot of "cheap asses" as customers.
I don't want to argue any more about the probability of a waterpump leaking - it's straying too far off topic to actually help the guy with his problem.
Point?
For the guy who has a possible leak at least check the waterpump area on the timing cover side of your engine. It might not be a really common problem, but since we know it can at least happen once it's worth checking out.
I don't work at a dealer now, and since our labor rates are cheaper we get a lot of "cheap asses" as customers.
I don't want to argue any more about the probability of a waterpump leaking - it's straying too far off topic to actually help the guy with his problem.
Point?
For the guy who has a possible leak at least check the waterpump area on the timing cover side of your engine. It might not be a really common problem, but since we know it can at least happen once it's worth checking out.
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (B18C5-EH2)
Once again thanks for your own personal testimony that proves to me that it happened to YOU.
I don't work at a dealer now, and since our labor rates are cheaper we get a lot of "cheap asses" as customers.
I don't want to argue any more about the probability of a waterpump leaking - it's straying too far off topic to actually help the guy with his problem.
For the guy who has a possible leak at least check the waterpump area on the timing cover side of your engine. It might not be a really common problem, but since we know it can at least happen once it's worth checking out.
For the guy who has a possible leak at least check the waterpump area on the timing cover side of your engine. It might not be a really common problem, but since we know it can at least happen once it's worth checking out.
Also, as you have pointed out, this problem isn't REALLY a common problem, but for morons like myself who put in incorrect antifreeze, it does seem to occur. Or maybe we're just very vocal, eh?
Shawn
[Modified by shawnhayes, 4:06 PM 11/9/2002]
#20
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (shawnhayes)
well after i turn the car off i see a little puddle of it and its antifreeze under the a/c....im going to get out all the air bubbles then see what happens
#21
HT White Ops
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (shawnhayes)
...Also, as you have pointed out, this problem isn't REALLY a common problem, but for morons like myself who put in incorrect antifreeze, it does seem to occur...
Apologies, in advance, to those of you that have read this stuff a million times. This is for those that don't have a clue...
Originally posted by Nexus242
I can't imagine Prestone, Zerex or Peak would cause erosion of your inner gaskets even if they are Honda gaskets. Just stick with a top name brand and you should be alright with no leaks. :D
I can't imagine Prestone, Zerex or Peak would cause erosion of your inner gaskets even if they are Honda gaskets. Just stick with a top name brand and you should be alright with no leaks. :D
Let's play fair. I'll provide you with evidence and you dispute it. That way you can't plead ignorance or lack of imagination...
SOURCE: Any Honda Dealer Web Site
<u>Why must I use Honda-brand antifreeze/coolant in my engine/radiator?</u>
* Most coolants labeled safe for aluminum engines actually aren't. The silicates and/or borates added to most coolants act as <FONT COLOR="red">abrasives</FONT> on the cooling systems.
* Honda's formulation for coolant does not use silicates or borates to enhance the corrosion protection for aluminum components. Instead, Genuine Honda antifreeze/coolant uses a proprietary organic corrosion inhibitor.
* The advantages of the Honda coolant are clear. Its ability to inhibit corrosion and the absence of silicates makes it the <FONT COLOR="red">only</FONT> coolant recommended for your Honda.
* If Genuine Honda antifreeze/coolant is not available, you may use another major-brand non-silicate coolant as a <FONT COLOR="red">temporary</FONT> replacement. Make sure it is a high-quality coolant recommended for aluminum engines.
* However, <FONT COLOR="red">continued use of any non-Honda coolant may result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail</FONT>. Have the cooling system flushed and refilled with Honda antifreeze/coolant as soon as possible.
<u>Why must I use Honda-brand antifreeze/coolant in my engine/radiator?</u>
* Most coolants labeled safe for aluminum engines actually aren't. The silicates and/or borates added to most coolants act as <FONT COLOR="red">abrasives</FONT> on the cooling systems.
* Honda's formulation for coolant does not use silicates or borates to enhance the corrosion protection for aluminum components. Instead, Genuine Honda antifreeze/coolant uses a proprietary organic corrosion inhibitor.
* The advantages of the Honda coolant are clear. Its ability to inhibit corrosion and the absence of silicates makes it the <FONT COLOR="red">only</FONT> coolant recommended for your Honda.
* If Genuine Honda antifreeze/coolant is not available, you may use another major-brand non-silicate coolant as a <FONT COLOR="red">temporary</FONT> replacement. Make sure it is a high-quality coolant recommended for aluminum engines.
* However, <FONT COLOR="red">continued use of any non-Honda coolant may result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail</FONT>. Have the cooling system flushed and refilled with Honda antifreeze/coolant as soon as possible.
<u>Genuine Honda Coolant is the Only Way to Go</u>
Increasingly severe operating conditions and the advent of lower maintenance requirements have resulted in significant changes in the variety and the concentration of additives used in engine coolant. Also, the continual improvements in engine and vehicle design have challenged coolant suppliers to design products that perform well in a more demanding environment.
To meet these needs, Honda engineers have developed a superior, high-quality coolant that has several advantages over the competition.
Some antifreeze, although labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not be compatible with Acura cooling system components. Extensive research and testing by both Honda R&D and CCI, the manufacturer of the Honda coolant, have proven that the <FONT COLOR="red">abrasive</FONT> silicates and/or borates found in most domestic coolants can cause these problems:
* Silicates bond to the <FONT COLOR="red">surface of the water pump seal</FONT> and act as an <FONT COLOR="red">abrasive</FONT>, causing considerable <FONT COLOR="red">seal erosion and coolant leakage</FONT>.
* In actual tests, the silicated coolant caused <FONT COLOR="red">early leakage</FONT>. This <FONT COLOR="red">leakage increased dramatically</FONT> until a substantial portion of the coolant had been lost.
* In contrast, the Honda coolant had almost no leakage through the duration of the test.
<FONT COLOR="blue">There was a chart here, entitled "Coolant Leakage from Water Pump Seal", showing Leaked Coolant Volume in ml as follows for each test duration in Hours. This is the text</FONT>:
Time
Honda Coolant volume leaked
Typical Silicated Coolant volume leaked
24 hours
0 ml
21 ml
48 hours
1 ml
36 ml
72 hours
2 ml
47 ml
96 hours
2 ml
55 ml
120 hours
2.5 ml
56 ml
144 hours
3.5 ml
57 ml
168 hours
4 ml
58.8 ml
192 hours
6 ml
63 ml
200 hours
6 ml
64 ml
* <FONT COLOR="red">Silicates tend to gel and settle in the coolest parts of the cooling system, causing radiator plugging and overheating</FONT>.
* <FONT COLOR="red">Borates cause pitting corrosion on the cylinder head</FONT>.
* Silicate inhibitors are difficult to stabilize and, therefore, limit coolant shelf life.
<FONT COLOR="red">Most commercially available coolants were originally designed for cast iron engines. Silicate, an inexpensive additive, was added to coolants to prevent aluminum corrosion, but the long-term durability of the combination was not tested</FONT>.
In contrast, Honda coolant was designed specifically for aluminum engines. It contains an organic corrosion inhibitor instead of silicate. This superior formula gives these advantages:
* No silicate abrasion of water pump seals. For example, these graphs show the surface roughness of two aluminum water pump seal rings. <FONT COLOR="red">Seal A, exposed to silicated coolant, shows considerable damage</FONT>. Seal B, exposed to Honda coolant, displays only minute wear.
* (graphs here, showing roughness across the surface, with A a very wiggly line, and B a very smooth line)
* No plugging or overheating caused by silicate gelling.
* Excellent corrosion protection for aluminum components.
* Long-term corrosion protection for other cooling system materials (steel, cast iron, copper, solder, gaskets, seals, and O-rings).
You can find less expensive coolants on the market, but now you can see why genuine Honda coolant is the only coolant approved for Honda and Acura vehicles (it MUST be used for warranty repairs). <FONT COLOR="red">Honda's non-silicate formula delivers added protection not offered by 95 percent of other brands</FONT>. Since our customers expect lower maintenance, <FONT COLOR="red">you're doing them an injustice if you use any other coolant</FONT>.
Increasingly severe operating conditions and the advent of lower maintenance requirements have resulted in significant changes in the variety and the concentration of additives used in engine coolant. Also, the continual improvements in engine and vehicle design have challenged coolant suppliers to design products that perform well in a more demanding environment.
To meet these needs, Honda engineers have developed a superior, high-quality coolant that has several advantages over the competition.
Some antifreeze, although labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not be compatible with Acura cooling system components. Extensive research and testing by both Honda R&D and CCI, the manufacturer of the Honda coolant, have proven that the <FONT COLOR="red">abrasive</FONT> silicates and/or borates found in most domestic coolants can cause these problems:
* Silicates bond to the <FONT COLOR="red">surface of the water pump seal</FONT> and act as an <FONT COLOR="red">abrasive</FONT>, causing considerable <FONT COLOR="red">seal erosion and coolant leakage</FONT>.
* In actual tests, the silicated coolant caused <FONT COLOR="red">early leakage</FONT>. This <FONT COLOR="red">leakage increased dramatically</FONT> until a substantial portion of the coolant had been lost.
* In contrast, the Honda coolant had almost no leakage through the duration of the test.
<FONT COLOR="blue">There was a chart here, entitled "Coolant Leakage from Water Pump Seal", showing Leaked Coolant Volume in ml as follows for each test duration in Hours. This is the text</FONT>:
Time
Honda Coolant volume leaked
Typical Silicated Coolant volume leaked
24 hours
0 ml
21 ml
48 hours
1 ml
36 ml
72 hours
2 ml
47 ml
96 hours
2 ml
55 ml
120 hours
2.5 ml
56 ml
144 hours
3.5 ml
57 ml
168 hours
4 ml
58.8 ml
192 hours
6 ml
63 ml
200 hours
6 ml
64 ml
* <FONT COLOR="red">Silicates tend to gel and settle in the coolest parts of the cooling system, causing radiator plugging and overheating</FONT>.
* <FONT COLOR="red">Borates cause pitting corrosion on the cylinder head</FONT>.
* Silicate inhibitors are difficult to stabilize and, therefore, limit coolant shelf life.
<FONT COLOR="red">Most commercially available coolants were originally designed for cast iron engines. Silicate, an inexpensive additive, was added to coolants to prevent aluminum corrosion, but the long-term durability of the combination was not tested</FONT>.
In contrast, Honda coolant was designed specifically for aluminum engines. It contains an organic corrosion inhibitor instead of silicate. This superior formula gives these advantages:
* No silicate abrasion of water pump seals. For example, these graphs show the surface roughness of two aluminum water pump seal rings. <FONT COLOR="red">Seal A, exposed to silicated coolant, shows considerable damage</FONT>. Seal B, exposed to Honda coolant, displays only minute wear.
* (graphs here, showing roughness across the surface, with A a very wiggly line, and B a very smooth line)
* No plugging or overheating caused by silicate gelling.
* Excellent corrosion protection for aluminum components.
* Long-term corrosion protection for other cooling system materials (steel, cast iron, copper, solder, gaskets, seals, and O-rings).
You can find less expensive coolants on the market, but now you can see why genuine Honda coolant is the only coolant approved for Honda and Acura vehicles (it MUST be used for warranty repairs). <FONT COLOR="red">Honda's non-silicate formula delivers added protection not offered by 95 percent of other brands</FONT>. Since our customers expect lower maintenance, <FONT COLOR="red">you're doing them an injustice if you use any other coolant</FONT>.
#22
HT White Ops
Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (shawnhayes)
...they are probably either using Dex-cool, or Honda antifreeze, which is better than the cheap antifreeze at preventing this problem...
Originally posted by NoNafs
halvoline dexcool, run about 7-7.50 a gallon, and that is undiluted...
halvoline dexcool, run about 7-7.50 a gallon, and that is undiluted...
The problem I have with Dex-Cool is that they have simply substituted silicates and borates with another cutting-edge inhibitor technology. Texaco uses an inorganic salt-based carboxylate and organic acid technology [OAT] additive/inhibitor package to extend its' range of compatibility with other antifreezes. This is hardly a high-tech solution [no pun intended] to silicate antifreezes, as far as I'm concerned...
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (BlackDeuceCoupe)
Dude,
I dunno about anyone else here, but that was a positive welath of info. I've had rad problems before and this expains alot. I'm speaking specifically about the coolant.
I dunno about anyone else here, but that was a positive welath of info. I've had rad problems before and this expains alot. I'm speaking specifically about the coolant.
#25
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Re: About to drain antifreeze and put in new antifreeze (BlackDeuceCoupe)
Honda OEM antifreeze is generally the best coolant for a Honda. If you don't mind me copy 'n' pasting something from one of my posts, this may shed some light on the subject.
Apologies, in advance, to those of you that have read this stuff a million times. This is for those that don't have a clue...
Apologies, in advance, to those of you that have read this stuff a million times. This is for those that don't have a clue...
Shawn
[Modified by shawnhayes, 11:45 PM 11/11/2002]