99CivDX

A/C Compressor is dying....nearly dead. Trying to find a new one but have no idea how to tell if it's a Denso or Sanden.
I've read a few instances where people were told it shouldn't matter and they buy one and it's the wrong one.

Is there any way I can be sure?

Thanks

Former User

Unlabeled one is Denso.

99CivDX

The armature plate is dead giveaway. Thanks!

I changed the timing belt with success, but I've never done anything with A/C ever. Is this something I should hire someone to do or is it less taxing than timing belt/water pump?

99CivDX

Ron, you're local, I'll pay you to do it. LOL.

Former User

What do you know so far about the job?

Former User

I'd like to help you, but my wife hates when on work on other people's cars at my house, unless of course it's one of her friends.

99CivDX

I understand, was a shameless plug.

I actually think the clutch is the culprit, but I've run it too long in this condition and would just like to replace the whole thing. I asked the shop that did the timing belt on my other civic, they said since the car had over 75K miles, they didn't want to just replace the compressor, they wanted to do the whole system at the cost of $1150. I have no problem with doing that, the parts all in all are not that expensive, so Imagine it must be labor intensive by their estimate.

I understand the removal of the compressor, adding the oil, new o-rings, but what I don't don't know how to address the capture of the refrigerant, how to vacuum the system, and or how to add the new refrigerant.

Also do you think it's necessary to do the condenser/evaporator as well?

Thanks again.

Former User

What are the symptoms? What makes you think the clutch is bad?

If only the clutch needs to be replaced, it's possible (but tricky in the tight space) to replace the clutch without removing the compressor or disconnecting the refrigerant lines.

99CivDX

Well, I think that was the problem at the start. Now, it kicks on and off constantly and grinds. Only cools for about 15 min in the heat of the day and then blows warm air.

99CivDX

needless to say, I've stopped using it. And as you know, it's damn hot right now in Houston.

Former User

Only grinds when A/C is on? Quiet otherwise?

Former User

Oh yeah.

99CivDX

The pulley rattles a little at low RPM but essentially quiet otherwise

Former User

Might be a bad compressor pulley and clutch.

With the A/C off, is the compressor pulley rattling or is the idler pulley?

99CivDX

Seems like compressor pulley to me. Sounds like you're trying to find a way for it not to be the whole compressor. Must mean the issues I was concerned with are not something an average joe can address (collecting old refrigerant, vacuuming, etc.)

Former User

Could be the pulley and clutch.

Can you post a video of the clutch acting up and making noise?

If the clutch seems likely, I'd recommend you try replacing the field coil, pulley, and armature plate.

Average joe can do the job. The only thing that a shop needs to do is recover the current refrigerant in the system.

99CivDX

Sure, I've got the video. Just upload it to photobucket I guess? You'll have to excuse my hollering to my daughter to "flip the switch"

Former User

Or YouTube

99CivDX

Here's the video
http://s26.photobucket.com/user/txcz...025PM.mp4.html

99CivDX

You can see the armature plate catch while the A/C is off and then there is what looks like wobble after the A/C is turned on. It's louder than I realized under the hood.

Former User

Looks to me like the pulley is wobbling in the video. Do you agree?

If so, I'd definitely start here:

99CivDX

I think our posts crossed. Yes, definite wobble. I'll start there. Would this be causing the compressor to freeze up on days like we've been having and stop blowing cold?

Former User

Could explain the issues. The pulley and clutch are definitely bad, so remove them and do some inspecting. If the compressor itself looks good and makes no unusual internal noises when turned, then you're likely good to go for replacing the coil, pulley, and clutch.

Again, a member who I have a lot of trust in, stated that the clutch can be replaced without removing the compressor and disconnecting the refrigerant lines. This way, there's no need to recover refrigerant and oil, replace receiver/dryer, evacuate, leak test, and recharge with oil and refrigerant.

99CivDX

Any idea how much a shop might charge to recover the refrigerant ?

Former User

I guess you decided to replace the compressor.

Not sure. Call some shops that specialize in automotive A/C to do some price comparisons. I personally wouldn't pay more than $50.

Here's a link to A/C tools that AutoZone rents for free.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...oning/_/N-26vf