SykoFerret

98 Civic EX, New professionally rebuilt engine from 2000 EX D16Y8; 0 miles. Idles as if it had a vacuum leak; haven't found one yet. CEL for o2 sensor Bay 1. Unplug the MAP sensor, and it idles fine for a few minutes, then reverts to rough idle, unplug o2 sensor in addition, and shortly thereafter, it dies. After running for awhile and removing the valve cover, oil seems to be pooling on the passenger side of the head. Timing is dead on, valves are perfect. Is this to be expected during break-in? The company that sold me the motor said to just run it. It has an unlimited mile warranty assuming it was installed correctly by the Honda certified tech I hired for the install... the only thing not stock about this car is I/H/E and a 195 failsafe thermostat. Any input or direction to find the problem if one exists would be greatly appreciated!

motegicivic

Hum....195 is too hot, should be around 170 degrees.

Intake is what if not stock?

Remember the 99-00 has the cold start assist valve the 98 motor does not, I am wondering if something needs to be plugged or a harness plug that is left astray from the 00 harness.

Where did you get the engine?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Take it back to your certified Honda tech and make him fix it. You should not have accepted it running in this condition.

motegicivic

This why I asked about the intake manifold you are running.... Extra holes for air injection on the 99-00.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Hopefully it's as easy as this.^^^

ej1ryder

Best advice ^^^ in that quote, grumblemarc is right on the dot with that. Was the tech aware of your intake and header wen they issued the warranty? I would take it right back and explain the issue, that is not normal to experience during a break in period. Hope this helps and good luck.

SykoFerret

OK, That explains the issue, its a bare block/head swap so everything else is off of the 98. So should I just replace the manifold and cross my fingers?
It would have the 98 ex harness, so if any modification is necessary could anyone point me in the right direction? And i apologize the intake is still stock.

A thought occurs. Could I just put the original y8 head back on?

motegicivic

I am wondering if you get a 00 manifold that will solve the issue.

If you change the head to the original that defeats the purpose of having a rebuilt engine.

SykoFerret

That's what I was thinking. Found a few for under $75 on ebay, so I'm looking for a 99-00 intake manifold. Probably easier that way. The issue is that I am already into just this motor swap for $3k, and it's run me broke.

Thanks for all the help, and the intake makes the most sense, I will let you guys know if that fixes the issue. Should I be concerned about acquiring the FIACV, will I need new injectors or an ecu chip or anything?

motegicivic

See if that intake has the injection hardware as well, looks like a separate piece. By looking at the pics it does not look like it has a an harness plug, maybe from the intake to the injection rail?

SykoFerret

Injection hardware as in fuel rail? Or will the FIACV be necessary or is that something that could be bypassed? I think I may need to take it to the pro's in DMI. I'd hate to think I was already in over my head, but I'm uncomfortable with all the extra costs I'm incurring with my current mechanic. And if it's simple enough I'd like to grab my chilton book, and swap the intake, I did one on an ej6 a few summers back, wasn't too hard. Just curious if it will be much different or any tougher on an ej8.

As for the replacement intake, It will either be eBay, Amazon, or pick n pull in des moines. I just want to be sure what I'm looking for. If I need the assembly and the fiacv or any additional hardware it would be easier to obtain locally I'd bet.

SykoFerret

Does this look correct, It even looks like the whole assembly is there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-civic-ex-...5248b0&vxp=mtr

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Is there any reason you will not take it back to the engine builder?

SykoFerret

Mostly because I'll have to bring the whole car, after it explodes, 26 hours to their shop... I'm sure the quality of the motor is top notch however.

strikerage

interesting

SykoFerret

It looks as if the FIACV does in fact plug in to the harness... Does anyone know of a good place to start looking online, or I'll grab a chilton's guide soon with luck and it should be there. It is attached to the fuel rail, so I'm looking at full assembly replacements. Additionally, would there be a demand for the working parts off of my old motor? The head and intake are still good and in great shape, 125k. I'd trade the whole set and some other spare parts just to get this thing running right.
I'll be posting pics of the build in the thread for it as soon as I can get them off my phone and into a usable format.

After some additional research it looks as if I will have to add hardware for the FIA system. It appears that the FIA control valve screws into the thermostat housing, along with hoses and hardware. This leads me to believe that an ECU subroutine may also be necessary.

motegicivic

When you bought this engine did the builder let you know there would be issues with you year, I doubt it, I would go back to them and tell them it is not compatible, they could of least gave you the manifold that is proper. I would ask for a price adjustment, how much did you pay for the engine?

HondaPartsHero

This thread makes my head hurt.

First off fix your O2 code. Which code is it by the way Pxxxx?

Second if they used the intake manifold off your old engine as long as they used a 96-98 intake manifold gasket you should be fine. If they used a 99-00 gasket with your 98 intake manifold there is a problem there and you need to swap the 96-98 gasket on. If they used the 99-00 manifold put the 96-98 back on with a new 96-98 gasket. Don't add air injection (assist) the only difference in D16Y8 between 96-98 and 99-00 on the intake side is the manifold and gasket plus the air injection setup which you don't need to add. Plus its not electrical its all basically mechanical related.



You need to make a call to the guy who did it and ask what manifold and manifold gasket he used and if you didn't have the O2 code before you came in then he at least needs to walk you through how to test because doing this swap wouldn't cause it.

SykoFerret

OK, so I spoke with the engine supplier, and they are going to exchange them, and refund my core deposit. So I will just be swapping in a 1998 D16Y8 Block/Head. As that will solve the issue. I'll link to the build post when pics are up. I paid $1585 including shipping and $295 core. From 123engine.com

And thank you for the solution, I will just put the 96-98 gasket on as they used a 2000 one. for my 98 intake mani. And I'll start it. If it isn't bogged I'll assume success and avoid the hassle of an exchange. Or I'll fall back on the exchange, either way they said they will honor their warranty.

motegicivic

What about all the labor to install it?

motegicivic

"If they used the 99-00 manifold put the 96-98 back on with a new 96-98 gasket. Don't add air injection (assist) the only difference in D16Y8 between 96-98 and 99-00 on the intake side is the manifold and gasket plus the air injection setup which you don't need to add. Plus its not electrical its all basically mechanical related."



Except if you look the pics I posted the 99-00 mani has the little holes that need to be plugged. Unless you are saying the gasket is enough to plug those holes?

I would just use the 96 mani with a 96 gasket I would get a new one while you are at it.

HondaPartsHero

That's what I was saying if they used a 99-00 manifold put the 98 manifold back on and use a 96-98 gasket. This should solve the issue not an entire new engine and it still won't resolve the O2 code.

SykoFerret

As for labor, I'll have to eat that cost. 2 swaps for $750 isn't horrible though. And yes we will be replacing the 2000 gasket with a 96-98 gasket to match the 96-98 intake mani. I'll be headed out shortly to try and get it done and post results.
As for the o2 sensor, I'll get it running first. since the CEL doesn't work it could have been there when the car was purchased, I'm sure I'll need a new cluster, although according to carfax it looks like all 125k are original.

jbpnoman

CEL not working doesn't mean the cluster is shot. Pull out the cluster and see if the bulb is even still there. Classic underhanded trick when selling a car is to pull the bulb and pass the car off as "in perfect running condition."

motegicivic

Agreed check the bulb first.

Try the gasket first see how it runs before a another swap.