92lxsleeper

Picked up a 98 Hatch, all bone stock, mint exterior with 150k~ish miles for $2400. Think i got a good deal since everything is mint.

Questions -

Is the D16Y7 prone to eating headgaskets like the D15b7 was? Or did honda fix that issue and use a Multi layer steel gaskets on these?

Are the main relays a common problem like in the EG's?

and is there anything else i should keep my eye open for?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

back with an EJ6

92lxsleeper

true true

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

lol

i got rick-rolled..

i thot i was going to see an EK

92lxsleeper

i wish i could afford an ek9.... hell even an ek4 lol

jbpnoman

The head gasket is solid in the Y7.

Main relay problems still exist.

If you plan on beating the **** out of it, the Y7's don't have the best oil journals in the world, but that isn't really a concern until you start looking at getting more power out of it than you should. The intake manifold is also ****, and the exhaust manifold/cat/downpipe setup is restrictive as hell, but the manifold can actually be fabbed to hold a small turbo. Not the best solution, but it's pretty cool to see.

92lxsleeper

yah i dont plan on beating on this one haha, had plenty of fun with my eg hatch h22 2 years ago i plan on driving this until the motor finally does die (which i think may be a long time off haha, the rockers dont even make a noise) but all i want to do is drop it a little, and put purple rotas on it, and maybe the apexi WS2 or Flowmaster 50 catback on it (had the flowmaster last time.... LOVED IT! sounds like the WS2, but a little bit quieter)

ej1ryder

nice find. those motors are pretty damn rock solid, yes the vertical intake manifold sucks, but they do make intake systems for them, and they are worth the added mpg's. also like jbp says, the factory exhaust manifold is a really poor design, and a few more mpgs may be seen out of replacing that for a better flowing design, as well as either of the 2 exhaust systems you mentioned. like i said theyre solid, ive seen idiot kids beat the dog s**t out of em with 10000 mile old oil, and more often then not the dip stick has a drop on it at best and they somehow keep tickin. those are really gas freindly motors, and they can still be fun to drive, you dont need a ton of power to enjoy a car, but comin from an h22 5th gen hatch you probly feel like your moving in slow motion.

MattEK4

clean civc; had one wreaked mine helping a friend move stupid. Blue slips with skunk 2s coilers looked sweat.

92lxsleeper

lol yeah, my current vehicle (97 silverado) has a built 6.0L vortec so this car REALLY feels slow lol.

but 40mpg on the highway is a lot better than my trucks 8mpg. even if the truck does have 380hp lol

i plan on keeping the car as long as possible, i have tons of doctors visits every week, so the truck is not practicle. i would love to someday either do a VX swap and shoot for 60+ mpg or go with a k20 (mostly for reliability purposes, since its newer, not too concerned with performance)

ej1ryder

6.0 vortecs are great motors. Buddy of mine has a supercharged denali makin 500 wheel horsepower, thing is an unstoppable force. Doctors visists? Hope all is well with you

92lxsleeper

Yah it was a 350 vortec bored .060 over to 360 ci or 6.0L

doctor visits are good. i only go for bloodwork and therapy since i'm transgender. no biggie, doesn't matter here anyway, only the cars do. so heres the pics









on monday i'm going to get it registerd
wednesday i have a guy coming to weld a new flex pipe on (God only knows who put the first one on thats cracked, but i can't afford to replace the exhaust pipes yet, so a $20 pipe and $40 labor for welding will have to do for now)

and thursday i'm going to honda to get the timing belt, water pump, and new coolant done.

i would do the belt myself as i have in the past, but due to my medications (hormones lol) i don't have the patience for heavy work at this point in time lol.

92lxsleeper

and i need to find an LX cluster with a factory tach eventually.

94preludeguy

Instead of doing the VX swap you should do the HX swap (D16Y5) it'd drop/wire right in.

92lxsleeper

true true i always mix those up :/

jbpnoman

Why the hell would you spend a two grand on a full swap just to save a few MPG? Unless you're one of those crazy bastards who commutes 2 hours each way every day, you'll never get the money back in fuel saved.

Also, for the record, I drove from central VA to Philly and back on ONE tank of gas with my D16Y7 on 10PSI through a TD04H-19T, and half of that trip was 80-90 MPH highway cruising. After refilling, 44 MPG. Roughly the same cost as a Y5 swap, twice as much power, and nearly the same gas mileage.

You guys can keep your silly fuel efficiency swaps. I'll take my turbo all day long. Power when you want it, stupid fuel efficiency when you don't.

92lxsleeper

well i drive 36 miles round trip for work everyday. weekly trips to the electrologist are 32 miles round trip, my therapist in boston... 100miles round trip. endocrinologist.... 14 miles round trip.

so yeah, i do a lot of driving every week and need maximum fuel economy benefits. I want to break 60mpg in a few years.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

That's what I'm saying. 32 city and 40+ highway.

Where's the Like button?

And I would NOT say that car was mint.

92lxsleeper

compared to anything else around here it is. i'm only talking about exterior and interior anyways. the engine bay needs paint, the front bumper needs a lip, and the rear could use a wetsand and re-clear

94preludeguy

Turbo is nowhere near reliable nor practical as a stock drop in swap. Also where are you getting your prices? I paid $300 for a d16y5 longblock 3 years ago. You can usually do entire swaps for $5-700. Hx trams is same as dx cx. Most expensive part about this swap is the 5 wire wideband o2 sensor.

92lxsleeper

i have to completely agree with this. i like minimal amount of moving parts. turbo = more moving parts, more things to leak,

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Bull.
3 going on 4 years with a turbo setup. Anyone that says it isn't reliable doesn't know what they are talking about. Do it right and you will have no worries. Do it wrong and watch your engine go bye-bye.

BTW. You can blow up a stock engine just as easily as a boosted one if you do not maintain it. Please stop perpetuating this mis-information.

And depending on where you live you'll pay more than twice that for a d-series. Don't assume prices are the same across the country.

MoreCowbell

I say check your mpg before doing an engine swap. It might be super good right now as it is

94preludeguy

Mis-information? Hahaha... Of course a turbo setup can be reliable if it's done right. The OP wants to do an engine swap purely on the basis for better gas mileage. If you think a turbo setup is the most practical thing to do in this situation then you've got some bigger issues going on upstairs. Also how can you blow up a stock motor just as easily as a boosted one? PLEASE ELABORATE ON THIS ONE. If you starve a stock Honda of oil for an extended period of time, more then likely it will be completely fine. Do this with a turbo car you'll run into major problems fast.

You can neglect a stock d-series and it will probably run and run and run.. If you neglect a boosted d-series you're going to have problems. Also, twice that would still only be a grand. The other guy said the swap would be TWO grand. I wasn't assuming anything, I was just saying a Y5 swap will be nowhere NEAR two grand and was giving what I paid for mine on pure emphasis. Obviously since mine was just a longblock, a complete swap would be more money.

Please don't try to tell me I don't know what I'm talking about when clearly you're the one in that position. You've had a boosted car for 3-4 years reliably now, cool. Does that mean everybody that boosts their car is going to have the same outcome? NOOOOOOO it does not!

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

So the OP is doing a swap to increase gas mileage but is spending money on a swap that negates any savings that may be realized anywhere in the near future? Makes sense to anyone?

And read closer. NO WHERE did I say that it would be cost effective to perform a turbo build with the end result being improved gas mileage. All I responded to was the comment that a turbo is not reliable and commented on my OWN gas mileage. Show ME where I said any differently.