luderich_kid

Ok, this one's about to go to the scrap yard. Bought this one a month ago thinking it was an easy fix with igniter and/or coil & I'd flip it quick... boy was I wrong.

Hope Ron or someone just as knowledgable is still on this sight... I've searched and read dozens of threads on this site and elsewhere

Here's what I've tested/replaced so far...

1. Coil & igniter have been tested and replaced with a know good one. Also put the original dizzy on another civic and that civic cranked right up.

2. The main relay is good... did the same thing replaced with a spare & tested on the other civic, it cranked right up

3. I have power going to the distributor on the Black/Yellow wire

4. the fuse 31/ECU fuse under the hood has the same voltage as the battery.

5. The G101 ground on the thermo has continuity

6. the K test failed. getting a fraction of fraction of voltage with Ign (II) on. Grounded out through the g101 ground and neg batt post, same result

7. I jumped the 1 & 7 pin on the main relay, not hearing the pump at all. I thought I was getting fuel at first because of the strong smell when I removed the plug, but not sure

8. Oh and the rotor button is turning, so its not a tbelt or cam problem

the problem car is a 1997 Lx auto. I swapped a 98 Ex manual ecu in just for kicks, not knowing whether it would at least prove it was a ECU problem. Didn't do anything different with that ECU

I'm sure there's something else I tested and don't remember. At a complete loss, my guess it's a bad ECU. But it's never been touched/opened from what I can tell & I'm tired of guessing.... desperate

Former User

15A hood fuse 44 may be blown. Also check 15A dash fuse 13.

luderich_kid

All those fuses are good with the voltage test. Is there another test I am forgetting or is it safe to assume its either a bad ecu or wiring problem causing the ecu not to receive the proper voltage?

Former User

There's more diagnostics for you to do before jumping to any conclusions.

Unplug the main relay to the right of the glove box. Use your multimeter to test whether the main relay plug gets battery voltage from both fuse 44 (key off) (Wht/Blk wire at pin 7) and fuse 13 (key in ON(II)) (Yel/Grn wire at pin 5). The Yel/Grn wire at pin 4 runs to the fuel pump.

luderich_kid

The white/black wire does get 12 volts with ign off (just for clarity this looked like pin 1 to me, pin 7 was another yellow green wire). The pin 5 yellow/green is NOT getting voltage with ign(II) on....

Former User

Pins 5 and 7 should have battery voltage. See pinout below. Connectors are viewed from the wire side of female connectors or from the pin side of male connectors.

Turn the key to ON(II) and test pin 5 for voltage. Pin 4 (the other Yel/Grn wire) should lack voltage.

luderich_kid

Excuse me for my idiocracy... I like to take on a project like this every few years and it seems like the things you forget first are the basics!!

So I understand the numbering now... it still checked out the same as before.... power to the white black wire but none to pin 5. So I decided to double check fuse 13 under the dash & realized there was no 15 amp fuse... I was testing the wrong fuse earlier... l look on the floorboard and what do you know, right next to all the trash is a little 15 amp fuse.

I plugged her in and no cel code and she fired up on the second try.

Lesson learned, don't count the fuses from the left... Look at the actual fuse number that's clearly labeled under the fuse!!!!! Also, if the facory cover & plastic diagram was still there that would be a plus!!!

Problem solved... damn it, i knew it was something simple!!!

Former User