FlewByU352

Which one should I get? Daily driver and it will see some boost much later on. Which would be better gearing?

batallic

i would get the B18C1 GSR engine, since it isnt high CP like the ITR, since u wana boost.. type r has the shortest gearing so i would think thats the better trans

FlewByU352

lol i knew i was going to get that. I'm going R though for many reasons, there are some really nice features that would still stay with the pistons and rods changed

forcefedferio

Obviously, as batillac stated there are FAR better choices for a boost application.

But if you specifically want to boost a b18c-R i would go with the 97 spec due to the transmission, because it does not have as steep of a final drive as the 98.

FlewByU352

I know the GSR is cheaper and would be a better choice for boost but if i'm changing pistons and rods anyways much later down the road I dont see a difference. People always like long gears fo boost but short gears your still going faster IDK

forcefedferio

That's exactly it, the difference is cost.

If you're changing out rods and pistons later, why spend the extra $ for an R motor.

The gearing isn't what you think it is, the idea is to be in 4th gear at the most at the end of the 1/4. With a higher gear ratio you're shifting more frequently and will put you in 5th gear probably 3/4 of the way down the track. When you're shifting so frequently your car has to recover to full boost, hence it's actually slower. Not to mention, you have obviously never driven anything with a considerable amount of boost and short gears, it's worthless. You fly through the gears, it seems real fast, but you're only doing 75mph.

FlewByU352

the type r valvetrain is better along with the crank, oil pump, water pump... thats the stuff that kinda made me want the type r vs gsr

forcefedferio

can you post this factually, or is this just here-say.

The valvetrain, yes that is correct, everything else is same quality.

If you really want to go with an ITR set-up, which obviously you do despite the cons. The best set-up to get is a 01 ITR motor and a 98 JDM spec trans.

FlewByU352

all the info was found on the net all facts i'll find the link later

raidacaipo

why spend on type R if your just going to boost it? why not go ls instead?

FlewByU352

no no no no no lol i am not going ls. I am staying N/A for quite a bit of time with the new motor I choose. LS would not be fun at all. I also dont feel like going LS/VTEC. B18C is a must. Now which one. I keep think R because I see people upgrading their GSR with Type R oil pump, water pump, crank, and sometimes the head/valvetrain. Then putting an LSD in to make it like the Type R so I figured why not just but the R? Its not that much more money and selling some R parts that I would change out I can make some money.

udechukwu

well you seem to have your plan all figured out, go for it

egpatrong

differences between b18c-R 96spec and 98spec are the JDM ITR 4-1 header vs 4-2-1 header and the 4.7 final drive vs. 4.4 final drive.

anyone got a good infos. on the header comparison? post pics. would be nice cheers

raidacaipo

well you said that in the future you were planning on boosting thats why I said go ls.. besides the ls will still have more lower end torque than the b18c R motor.. it already has a low compression and will handle boost nicely with the longer transmission gearing. I think it would be a good daily driver.. besides it wouldnt cost that much money either.. Im not talking about going ls/vtec either.. just stick with a stock complete b18b and boost it later on or build it if you decide to do so.

Corksil

http://www.acuraworld.com/forums/f74...-2001-a-66263/

some comparison info

FlewByU352

awesome info, thanks

xXViperXx

Look at it this way.

Lets say you spend 4k on a Type R.

You could spend 2k on an LS.

That leaves 2k to play with.

What do we have here, a boosted LS with the extra 2k! Now you are already faster than the R. Period. End of discussion.

Manage your money.

B18C5-EH2

Something often overlooked when people compare the JDM 98 spec 4.78FD tranny and the pre 98 spec 4.400FD is that the 4th and 5th gears in the 4.78 tranny are taller, and are the same as the GS-R tranny.

This means 1-3 rip a little quicker, but rpm drop a bit more into 4th gear. For boost this probably isn't an issue. 1/4 mile traps and gear when finishing should not be any different really once you do the math of a 4.78FD against a taller 4th gear.

B18C5-EH2

BTW:

As far as which one to get the difference is too small to notice IMO, seriously. If the extra cost of the 98 spec is more than $300.00 then it's probably not wroth it IMO. Yes the 4-1 header on the 98 spec is nice, and sellable once you go boost, but it won't be a $300+ sale.

Engines themselves are the same.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

^ I knew i'd see you in here.. lots of good info

IMHO. I wouldn't boost it.

Get some cams and valve train.. Really nice header and a chipped ecu and go to the dyno.. Good tune make some good power.. car will rip thru gears..Just my .02 and this is coming from a turbo guy ATM.

jasoncrashtech

15100-P72-A01 integra type r oil pump part number

15100-P72-A01 integra gs-r oil pump part number

19200-P72-013 itr water pump

19200-P72-013 99 si water pump

if you want the r and boost later on go for it but i wouldn't recommend a log manifold when you do it (due to cams)

if the r is what you want go for it

FlewByU352

Awesome post BTW! this is the stuff i was looking for. yeah the 98 spec is $400 more and the average mileage is 3,000 less which theres no way of telling anyways.

Boost is a lot of fun though but all motor is deffinately less chance of complications, not as many functioning parts as a turbo.

also very interesting. so they label the R differently yet its the same part? I would like to know about the conflict with log mani and the cams? Is the turbo just too close to the valves witht he log vs a ram horn like the exhaust has more room before it hits a restriction? IDK hopefully you can give some info on this.

jasoncrashtech

a log manifolds are fine for smaller cams but anything with good duration and lift, or big duration and lift like pro 1's and so on will get smothered with a log manifold. it's just not efficient enough to get all exhaust gas out and to keep up with the flow.
plus, some of log's will give you boost creep because they don't center the waste gate (some cases not all )

FlewByU352

"60mph in a 96spec is approx 3100rpm, 60mph in a 98spec is 3400rpm, the 4.785 final drive makes a big difference, there is very little difference in the 4th and 5th ratios when compared like for like. You can quite happily drive a 96spec all day long on a motorway at 70/80mph, when doing the same speed in a 98spec the engine is revving higher and it so badly needs another cog to bring down the engine revs a bit. For the first few weeks after getting my 98spec i kept going for another gear when in 5th, its friggen annoying...so much so i'm considering swapping my 3NE gearbox for a J4D 96spec box!!!"

from reading up it seems the 96-97 is better for a daily driver. It appears to have very slightly longer gears and the RPM's are lower when highway cruising. Heres a quick question, like the GSR guys using the LS 5th gear... can I do that to the R motor? So 5th gear cruising is really low RPM?

I also read something about the 96-97 axles being 32mm which would fit the EK hubs I believe and the 98+ being 36mm? Any truth to this?

For the $500 difference I think I could make the 96-97 better.

jasoncrashtech

yeah, ls fifth in a r is fine but fifth gear takes a while though. takes even longer in b16 tranny.