Erocer

1996 Civic DX I've looked everywhere what a air conditioning diode. Everything I've read says it's on the driver side Left Hand by the kick plate I can't find anything there looks like that. Can anybody lend me some help on that maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place or it looks different I don't know

Former User

It's integrated into the hood fuse box.

Erocer

Well if it's integrated into the fuse box how can you test it or replace it if need too. Diodes do go bad ?? Or do you have to replace the entire fuse box?

I looked at the link and it really doesn't help me a whole lot thank you for your help

Former User

^

Erocer

Just wanted to let you know that on my other post I see frustration that you locked it I was listening it's just I have already tried everything you explain I'm going to track every single wire backwards from the schematics I have.
I truly believe I've direct short or a bad wire somewhere in the system.
I understand the wiring setup on the car DC current. They're using the car engine and body as a ground. My pull the dash apart all the framing metal was rusted out I'm cleaning it and resetting all the ground from the harness. Then take the omp meter and track every wire backwards just to eliminate anything and everything and to make sure for my own edification !
I plan on keeping this car for a very long time.
I appreciate all your help sir.
I have used this website in the past for many difficulties I have run into with this car.
And will continue to do it now I'm a member.
But I have to say burying the diode inside the fuse box is is very frustrating but I'll figure something out because I did buy a used fuse box already

mk378

The supply of power to the blk/yel wire on the thermostat does not involve the diode. Or anything in the underhood box for that matter. It is a simple circuit from fuse #17 (why did you keep saying "47"?) under the dash.

Erocer

Sorry about the other post I must be dyslexia and exhaustion. I was working on a huge microscope at a university and something that should have been a two-day job the customer misinformed me and it turned into hardcore one week job. I was working 14 to 16-hour days the mechanical stage alone had over 300 screws and nuts in it.
But I took most of the dashboard apart in a lot of framing metal is Rusted underneath there and the grounds don't look so good.
I'm going back to old school picking up omp meter tracking every single wire in the AC system from schematics from you and from the books.
I've got a bad wire in there somewhere it's the only explanation

Former User

The Rules sticky?

The part that I wanted you to read in the Rules sticky is about the responsibilities of members who create threads asking for technical help. Two responsibilities relevant to you are answering questions and providing requested additional information. In fact, I recommend that you respond point-by-point in detail to all questions and comments directed at you by members trying to help you. You'll find that this teamwork approach will speed up the process of solving your technical problems.

Can you re-describe the problem? Is it that the condenser fan does not run and the compressor clutch does not engage?

Erocer

Well sir I have checked out every single wire in the air conditioning system and they all check out the all have continuity. Nothing left is the computer board and I'm really not sure how you would test one of those. That's the only thing left everything else checks out perfectly

Former User

You're on the way to derailing your second thread.

Erocer

Well sir it started out about 2 weeks ago my condenser fan fuse keep popping. I was thinking to myself that car is 20 years old I rebuilt the entire AC. I refilled it with Freon got everything checked out.
But when I turn it on the condenser fan does not turn on and the clutch on the compressor does not engage.
Today I spent the whole day checking continuity of every single wire and everything checks out. I checked out every relay every switch every fuse. I made sure every single thing was plugged in I don't know what else to do

Former User

Are you willing to do some more electrical tests?

Erocer

Well sir it started out about 2 weeks ago my condenser fan fuse keep popping. I was thinking to myself that car is 20 years old I rebuilt the entire AC. I refilled it with Freon got everything checked out I can jump the relays in a condenser fan and compressor will turn on the only way I can get them to turn on.
But when I put the relays back in I turn it on the condenser fan does not turn on and the clutch on the compressor does not engage.
Today I spent the whole day checking continuity of every single wire and everything checks out. I checked out every relay every switch every fuse. I made sure every single thing was plugged in I don't know what else to do. I'm stumped

Former User

Last chance.

Erocer

Yes I'm willing to try anything I have multimeter in hand tell me what to do

Former User

Locate hood fuse 56 and dash fuse 17.

Turn key to ON(II).

Measure voltage to body ground at each of the two test tabs in both fuses. Click link for instructions.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...fuses-3079359/

Post the voltages.

If you have any questions about the test, please post them.

Erocer

Fuse #56 12.24volts both sides #17 12.00volts even both sides

Former User

Great start!

Now remove the hood relays for the condenser fan and compressor clutch.

Turn key to ON(II).

Pins 2 and 4 in the female sockets of the fuse box should have approximately battery voltage to body ground.

Post the 4 voltage readings.

If you have any questions about the test, please post them.

Erocer

So according to the link I'm not getting enough voltage from my battery. That could indicate a short wired or made a bad battery I'm not sure

Former User

I think your voltage readings are fine. Move to next test.

Erocer

Clutch relay #2 12.07 V #4 12.1v fan relay #2 12.2V #4 12.21v

Former User

Great again!

Now reinstall the relays.

Unplug ECU connector A and the A/C pressure switch.

Turn key to ON(II).

Measure voltage to body ground at ECU connector pin A17.

Measure voltage to body ground at the Blu/Wht wire pin of the pressure switch connector.

Post the 2 voltage readings.

mk378

This all looks OK. Plug the relays and everything else back in and test at the thermostat (everything plugged in, and key on);

#3 blk-yel battery voltage all the time key is on.
#2 blu-red battery voltage A/C off, near zero volts with interior fan on and A/C button pressed
#1 blu-wht same as #2

If you ground #1, the condenser fan should start (this bypasses the control panel and thermostat). The compressor would also start if the engine is running.

Erocer

A17 - 12.06v blue light pressure switch 11.39v

Former User

Looks good again. Proceed now with mk's test of the A/C thermostat. In my opinion, jump directly to grounding the Blu/Wht wire terminal in the unplugged thermostat connector to see if the fan runs and clutch engages with the key in ON(II) (engine off).

If you have any questions about the test, please post them.