Clarke240

1996 Civic CX
B18b1 (96 b1 head/~93 a1 block)
GT35r tuned on 8psi
570cc injectors




I spun a bearing after about 3k miles on the build, so I swapped the head onto a fresh block. Dropped the engine back in, reran the wiring, replaced a few high wear componets and ones that seemed to not be working properly. Now, punching the gas quickly, the engine stumbles and hesitates, and if you hold it to the floor under load, it will stall. The idle is slightly high, Around 1300. One of the sensors I replaced was the TPS. I have NOT calibrated it yet. Could this be the sole reason for it falling on its face under more than 20% throttle? The engine had thrown a code 7 (tps) with the old sensor (calibrated) which is why I replaced it, new sensor is throwing the same code (uncalibrated).
I also believe my alternator has died out on me, though my fault for not swapping in a known good one with the new block. The engine run perfectly with some assist to the battery (ie jump starting) but disconnect the cables and attempt to drive for more than 50 feet and she dies on you. Could this cause other systems on the vehicle, namely other sensors, to act as if they arent operating correctly due to lack of power?

Thanks all,
Tyler

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Did you replace like for like? You didn't say.

Clarke240

Like for like? I replaced the B18b1 block with a B18a1 block, everything else I replaced was a new item, but the same nonetheless.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Never heard that term?

Never mind. Post back when you've actually calibrated the TPS.

frankenghia

x2^

Clarke240

Calibrated the TPS, the hesitation is better, still not completely gone though. My car kept stalling out after about 50 feet of driving, lights would become dim, would have to hold the pedal 100% down just to keep it alive. My battery has been quite dead, and the alternator not charging it back up, so I went and got a trickle charger and replaced the alternator. Havent attempted to start it since then.
The only other issue I am having is the passenger side lower ball joint. When putting the castle nut back on after replacing an axle, the bolt itself spins and makes it very difficult to get the nut on. This a definite sign that I should replace it?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Maybe you need to concentrate on one issue at a time.

Clarke240

Very true. But the issue will need to be addressed eventually. As in before test driving to see if the other issue has been solved.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

If you don't want your thread to get real confusing real fast I'd stick with the issue related to your thread title. If you even question the integrity of a part you should replace it.

Clarke240

Thank you, I didnt think about the thread getting jumbled. I will put the battery in after work and report if the hesitation is still overly noticable.

Also, still hesitation related, there is a tiny nipple on the back drivers side of the intake manifold that is not routed to anywhere. Blocking it with just my finger lowers the idle noticeably. I searched for where it should go, but find mostly hoses related to the IACV on the back of the manifold. Can I just cap this off? *Even with it blocked with my finger, the hesitation is still present when revving*

Clarke240

Been a while, but figured I would update this in case anyone has similar problems in the future.

After calibrating the TPS, my engine fired up, revved perfectly, and no hesitation was present. I put off calibrating for a week because I was not confident in my electrical skills and thought the job would be harder than it seemed. It was not. Took maybe 5 minutes to complete.

Thank you for the help guys.