abcdefg123

I've searched and found similar threads but no resolutions. I have a 1995 Civic EX (A/T). This problem comes and goes but has been acting up a lot lately. After its been sitting for awhile, upon acceleration the car bogs and powers down, pressing the gas does nothing. None of the electronics in the car power down, it's just the power of the car. However, once warmed up, the car runs completely fine. I rebuilt the motor almost 4,000 miles ago due to a bad head gasket. Compression came back perfect, during the build, every hose, filter, or sensor was replaced. The only original thing I can think might be causing this is the IACV. The FITV is new, spark plugs are new, wires are new, fuel filter is new, ground behind thermostat is clean, other grounds are fine, I literally just replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder, cat isn't clogged, TPS is new, coolant sensor under the thermostat housing into the head is new, and so on. Once in awhile, when cold, the car will idle rough and almost die but suddenly jump back up and act normal. I've also replaced the coil. I'd appreciate any help.

scrappieman

the gaskets in the throttle body are the problem aslso i tink there is an O ring aswell in the t/b. it is a sohc engine yes. the models are different in ireland. that is your problem. when changing the gaskets also clean out the throttle body so its all clean inside.

jwest1150

I have this exact same problem in my 99 ex d16 only my car completely dies, but electronics stay on. Also works fine after warming up. Hopefully a resolution comes up.

motegicivic

Rebuilt everything? Valves, rings, surface the head etc?

What engine z6 vtec?

abcdefg123

Yep! It was all done properly too. Machine work was done by a respectable shop. It appears this isn't uncommon, I've encountered several threads with the same issue.

noz79

I would lean towards a valve clearance adjustment or a vacuum leak. Im thinking valve clearance though.

motegicivic

I had my valves adjusted recently and it did help somewhat, granted my engine is old, but does help.

Test the ICM.

Test the ECT sensor, sometimes that will cause cold running problems.

abcdefg123

Thanks for the suggestions. The valves were adjusted maybe two months or so ago, maybe I'll go ahead and do them again if it comes to it. The ECT seems fine, wouldn't it trigger the CEL if it went bad? Would there be any over-heating issues too? Just want to see if it's a silent suspect. I took the car out this morning to run to the bank, it seems that it absolutely hates me when I'm turning when cold. Example: I was making a sharp right turn going slightly up-hill. During the turn the car, even with me attempting to accelerate had no power, once the wheel was straight it fixed itself. This would lead me to think of a short but it also occurs when going straight on cold starts. So maybe it's losing spark somewhere? I recently replaced the ignition switch. The coil is practically new and I'm running IR with NGK wires. Cap/Rotor are new but the distributor isn't, would this have something to do with it despite all the main components have been replaced?

I suppose I'm going to set the weekend aside to replace the following:
Ignition Switch (Currently BWD, I'll try to get my hands on a Beck/Arnley)
Coil (Currently BWD, Will replace with another BWD)
Plugs
Cap/Rotor
Possibly ECT

Any other suggestions would be great. Would the TQ Converter have anything to do with a drop in power?

delsolintegra

Definitely clean the IACV (It's one of the first things I would do)
If you're careful taking it off you can reuse the gasket if you put a little silicon grease on it. See FAQ's on this.

Also the fuel pressure Regulator has a o-ring that you might need to replace or grease. There are a lot of little o-rings that can cause vacuum leaks when the engine is cold and might seal after warming up but I bet it's the IACV.

motegicivic

I would test the ECT, takes a few minutes, doesn't always trigger a cel.

pull off harness 2 terminals inside, set meter to ohms, should read between 200-400.

check the fuel pressure regulator with a gauge attached to the fuel filter.

abcdefg123

I originally thought the IACV had something to do with it. I cleaned it a little over a week or so ago and its still been acting up. I'll test the ECT in the morning. I was talking to a friend of mine who has a 95 1.5 Sedan and he said he had a similar issue which almost makes sense. He mentioned his car was doing the same thing and it turned out to be his P/S pump, he removed the belt before starting the car one day and the problem was gone. This would contribute to the whole, hot and cold fluid ordeal. I'll give that a shot this week as well.