aj345

iTrader: (1)

Ok so Ive searched and searched and I cannot come up with an answer. So the other day I was driving and my speedo, raido and ac were cutting on and off randomly, so I pulled over a napa to check my grounds and it would not start so they jumped me off and I made it home.

I figured the alternator since my belt had been slipping(squealing terribly) I was just to lazy to tighten it up. Anyway I took the alternator to autozone and they said it was good and my battery was completely dead so they charged it up, I put everything back in and tightened up the belt.

This is where things get crazy, I went on a test drive and about 5 minutes in everything started going crazy again and my car was bogging and backfiring. Everytime I hit the gas its like it did not respond to it and jerked violently. Also my battery light DOES NOT come on at all.

So I checked all my wires and found the wire going to the starter was basically hanging off so I plugged it back in and boom battery light comes on and goes off as it should and all my voltage was good. Then I drove it around came back tested the voltage again under a load and it stayed at 12 volts. And the battery light wont come on at all again. Can this indicate a faulty alternator?
EDIT car is a 95 civic dx with a b20b
Im so lost and really need some suggestions PLEASE!! Thanks

Former User

Car information is required. See forum Rules sticky. Edit your first post.

aj345

iTrader: (1)

Just edited it but it's a 95 civic with a b20b

Former User

Post a picture of the "starter" wire that was loose and you reconnected.

Do you have a multimeter?

aj345

iTrader: (1)

Ok I'll take a pic in a minute Md yes my voltage while the car is off is 12.6 at the battery and while it's running with a load(ac radio lights etc) my alternator says 12.5. But without a load it says 13.5.

Former User

Were these voltage readings taken when the cluster charging light was not working?

Waiting for pictures.

aj345

iTrader: (1)

Its the smaller wires with the black rubber cover. Also a little update here, I got the battery and oil light to come on and stay on when the key is in the on position and voltage was all good under a load. (14v on the dot) So I drove around for a little while stopped to get some gas and then I noticed the battery light would NOT come on again so I check the voltage and its at 12.6 volts again under a load. So I drove home and everything was fine. I shut it off and turned the key and the battery light and oil came on and voltage was good again.

Also this might be important here, whenever the voltage drops and there is no battery light, my temperature gauge doesnt read right. It doesnt go up to the normal temp spot but once the voltage comes back it goes up back to the normal position.

I talked with a buddy and he still seems to think the alternator is shot because its turning on and off?

Former User

When the battery light won't turn on, does the oil light also fail to turn on?

aj345

iTrader: (1)

No oil light will come on everytime weather the battery light does or does not come on with it.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Autozone never ever ever checks batterys or alt right.

Ask me how I know.

Did you check the alt field signal fuse in the under dash fuse box? Could be loose.

Check all your grounds.

Pull the cluster out maybe there's a loose wire back there.

Former User

A Blk/Yel wire runs between 15A dash fuse 24 and the 4P alternator connector. Sounds like a connector between those two locations is not fully seated or the Blk/Yel wire is damaged.