bpotter05

beecee18

Photo is not good enough

turn it over one more revolution until the up symbol is pointing up on the camgear, and the two marks are lined up with the top of the cylinder head where the valve cover meets it.

then look down and report back where the crank is in corrlation to the mark on the plastics.

bpotter05

That picture is with the camgear in the UP positions

bpotter05

alright obviously I'm a n00b, but from what I've gathered, if my cam gear is at TDC and the marking on my crank pulley and timing cover are not lining up like in the picture, then my mechanical timing is off and that could be the cause of my NO START!?!?

If that is true then I need to take off my crank pulley so I can remove the lower timing cover and get to the adjusting bolt, loosen the timing belt, get everything to line up and re-tighten? never done a timing belt before but that is what I have gathered from researching.

So if this is what I need to do.... then I just need to order a Harmonic Damper Pulley Holder? anything else I need? I have an impact wrench.
Thanks for your help.

bpotter05

http://www.samicspecialtools.com/hon...pulley-holder/

like this?

ef4real

The above looks good, i have this one http://compare.ebay.com/like/3706070...Types&var=sbar
its a little more versatile since you can position your breaker bar in 4 different positions. In case you are having clearance issues under the car.

beecee18

Ive never needed that tool although it prolly makes life great.

Ron has done alot of the work by providing you with a exerpt form the factory service manual that explains much of the job. Im not much of a single cam guy but.

I would not remove pulley or plastic, I would simply loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the cam gear, slowly carefully turn the crank in proper direction and line up the white single mark(TDC) not the three timing marks(RED) from the crank pulley with the line mark on the plastic.
Then I would pull the side with the tensioner to take the slack of the loose tensioner (this is where that tool would be golden as when doing this you can turn the crank over) and slide the belt over the properly positioned cam gear.

you would need to then look into how to set proper tension of the T-belt for your application. How far off in inchs is the white line of pulley from the mark on the plastic?

phrenzy

I'm having the same problem, but my cranks sound weird, before reading this I was thinking it was my mechanical timing. But also my spark is orange so I might need to check my ignition components as well. Thanks to the op and replies to help me as well.

bpotter05

Yeah I ended up ordering a very similar one to yours off amazon, gonna take a week to get to me though

Beecee, from my understanding I have to remove the pulley and the plastic to get to the tensioner because the plastic covers it?

Also I'm having trouble seeing the white line on the pulley.

beecee18

The white has worn off but it will be one small hash mark roughly 16 degrees (an inch or so) from the 3 close together hash marks that should be red.

There should be a removeable plastic plug within the lower plastic to acess the tensioner.

Former User

Once a timing belt has skipped some teeth, you really should replace it.

Fnix

iTrader: (1)

disconnect a hose from the intake manifold (pcv) to let air into it and see if it starts, maybe iacv, i had the same problem. Hold the throttle plate open a little to let some air in, works also

beecee18

I was just about to post that ron,
after looking at the condition of the belt, frayed and wear at the leading edge of each tooth.

This should be done, and in that case you would be removing the crank pulley and and the plastics prior to re-installation

bpotter05

All I can make out on the pulley is this red hash

Former User

That's not a stock crank pulley. What engine do you have? The crank pulley hex tool won't work on that crank pulley. If your car has the stock engine, I'd recommend you to replace that crank pulley.

bpotter05

well shoot, what will i need to get it off. its a d15b7

Former User

There are less favorable alternatives - for example using a strong impact gun or filling one cylinder with nylon rope.

bpotter05

this is probably i stupid question but i don't understand. If i stick an impact wrench on there to take it off... isn't it going to just turn the engine over?

Former User

No. That's the beauty of a good impact wrench.

beecee18

No sir,
The gun reacts quicker then the possible weight, rotating mass of your rotating assy.So first off you will set the crank to TDC. Get the required space for Gun plus 19mm impact socket and make sure compressor is fully purged and topped of with at least 120-130 psi, and blast away, just be nice once it comes loose, not to spin it off to fast and have the bolt go flying.
remove pulley and remove special small woodruf key if your application has this, some times the key is integrated into the lower T-belt gear behind the pulley.
Reinstall the belt and use the mark on the T-belt gear now as your indicator for TDC (cause now the pulley wont be there)
Once belt is set reinstall everything,
The only thing I think I'm leaving out is the rotating sequence of gaining the tension on the belt before tightening the tensioner.

beecee18

No brotha,
the marks are going to be fine scribe marks at the outer edges of the pulley facing closest to us while looking at that photo

Zerob16eg

You can also use a chain wrench. Unfortunately, that is a stock crank pulley. It was utilized on the d series ef motors. I have dealt with a few of them and had to use the chain wrench to remove.

Another trick to boost your compression when an engine has not started for a while is to pour a cap full (approx 1 tsp) of motor oil down the cylinder. The oil coats the walls and helps the rings create better compression. Just don't pour too much, a little bit goes a long ways.

Former User

And it often helps to soak the crank bolt in PB Blaster (or equivalent) overnight prior to attempting removal.

beecee18

Never heard of the nylon rope trick RAD!

Freckles

MAP sensor