92 Civic VX rust repair pics
#52
#54
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
How is it ruined by painting a carbon or fiberglass hood? There is a difference between giving various options an injecting personal opinion due to your dislike of a non metal hood.
#55
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
You're taking my post way too much towards your heart. I just gave my opinion on the fact that I think the standard hood would look better than a "painted" carbon hood.
#57
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
Call me crazy but it sounds like one of you is talking about taking a carbonfiber hood and painting it body color and the other is saying take an existing hood and paint it to look like carbonfiber...or maybe both of you are actually saying the same thing (taking a carbon fiber hood and painting it OR painting on a carbon fiber look on stock hood) in which case I'd have to ask what difference would it make if it was metal vs carbon? After it's painted it's going to look the same :/
#58
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
Call me crazy but it sounds like one of you is talking about taking a carbonfiber hood and painting it body color and the other is saying take an existing hood and paint it to look like carbonfiber...or maybe both of you are actually saying the same thing (taking a carbon fiber hood and painting it) in which case I'd have to ask what difference would it make if it was metal vs carbon? After it's painted it's going to look the same :/
#60
#61
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
Featherfill G2 sands really well, Slicksand sands horribly in comparison.
My sanding blocks are AFS adjustable sanding blocks (you can google them and find lots of info). They have three removable steel rods that run through the body of the block, and you can leave them all in if you want the block to remain stiff, or remove them one at a time for the desired amount of flexibility.
As far as sanding grits: I usually use 40 girt to rough in filler, then go back over it with 80 grit. The courser the grit, the straighter you can get the panel (course grits cut, higher grits polish). After I get to the point where I think my body work is about 99% I will shoot 2 coats of epoxy primer, then 2-3 coats of poly-primer. A good epoxy primer is the best substrate to not only do following body work on, but to lock down the existing body work. I use poly-primer because it saves me time. If you wanted to just use 2K urethane primer you would sand your bodywork up to 180-220 grit. This is because poly-primer is like sprayable body filler and it won't shrink back into the course 80 grit scratches, but regular high build primer will shrink back after a few months in the hot sun (will appear slowly as your paint then shrinks into these scratches). I then block out the poly-primer with 220 grit. Then comes the normal high build urethane primer, then I block with 400 grit (and then 600 grit if I am shooting a metallic basecoat).
This is a tried and true method that works for me when shooting show cars, and I have never run into problems with it. If I strip a car down to bare metal I shoot epoxy primer first, and then do my body work on top of it. If you are shooting a quality epoxy primer you don't have to sand the area down to bare metal when you apply filler, you just need to sand the area with 80 grit paper (filler adheres to epoxy primer wonderfully). Now if it makes you feel more comfortable, you can do all filler work and then shoot your epoxy primer. Now, some body supply stores will still try and sell you etching primer... don't buy it. Its antiquated technology that just really has no practical application in todays paint world. It would be like shooting acrylic enamel... let MAACO shoot that junk
My sanding blocks are AFS adjustable sanding blocks (you can google them and find lots of info). They have three removable steel rods that run through the body of the block, and you can leave them all in if you want the block to remain stiff, or remove them one at a time for the desired amount of flexibility.
As far as sanding grits: I usually use 40 girt to rough in filler, then go back over it with 80 grit. The courser the grit, the straighter you can get the panel (course grits cut, higher grits polish). After I get to the point where I think my body work is about 99% I will shoot 2 coats of epoxy primer, then 2-3 coats of poly-primer. A good epoxy primer is the best substrate to not only do following body work on, but to lock down the existing body work. I use poly-primer because it saves me time. If you wanted to just use 2K urethane primer you would sand your bodywork up to 180-220 grit. This is because poly-primer is like sprayable body filler and it won't shrink back into the course 80 grit scratches, but regular high build primer will shrink back after a few months in the hot sun (will appear slowly as your paint then shrinks into these scratches). I then block out the poly-primer with 220 grit. Then comes the normal high build urethane primer, then I block with 400 grit (and then 600 grit if I am shooting a metallic basecoat).
This is a tried and true method that works for me when shooting show cars, and I have never run into problems with it. If I strip a car down to bare metal I shoot epoxy primer first, and then do my body work on top of it. If you are shooting a quality epoxy primer you don't have to sand the area down to bare metal when you apply filler, you just need to sand the area with 80 grit paper (filler adheres to epoxy primer wonderfully). Now if it makes you feel more comfortable, you can do all filler work and then shoot your epoxy primer. Now, some body supply stores will still try and sell you etching primer... don't buy it. Its antiquated technology that just really has no practical application in todays paint world. It would be like shooting acrylic enamel... let MAACO shoot that junk
#62
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
Figured I would update this DEAD thread! So, as happens, life got in the way (paying customers) of me getting the civic done last fall, so I got back on it a few days ago. Here's where we are now... I finally got it all blocked out several times and ready for some paint, so today I shot the fenders, doors, rear hatch, spoiler, and a few other pieces. Tomorrow I will shoot the body, hood and misc small parts. Here's a few pics...
Paint turned out real well, low amount of dirt/trash and good layout. Now before I talk about materials and equipment let me give the following disclosure..."don't skimp on materials, always use quality products!" You have put far to much work into a product to cut corners now.
With that being said... on this project I used Kirker Flame Red SS urethane. I shot it with an Iwata LPH400 1.3 tip at 22 psi (silver cap). I mixed in 30% HOK UFC 35 clear with the SS on the last 2 coats.
I only used Kirker b/c I see so much hatred toward it, but not much "real world" experience to back it up, so I had to give it a shot. This is a personal car and if the paint fades in 2-3 years... so what! All the hard work is already done, I will sand it and re-shoot it with PPG or Dupont or Spies. I did mix in the House of Kolor UFC35 clear on the last coats so I would imagine that will give it a little better life (if it doesn't react poorly with the Kirker and delaminate or something worse). Again, I am not suggesting that rookies, or amatuers take this route, I just did it b/c of the car that it was going on, and I wanted to do a little test. Not something I would ever do on a paying customers car without having some "firsthand" experience to go off of!
Now for my unbiased opinion of the Kirker AU... IT WAS GREAT! I have shot thousands of dollars of Dupont Chromabase (and Chromapremier), PPG, Spies, and some of the lower lines like Nason and Omni. I am not a newbie (but not an old pro either), I shoot in my homebuilt positive pressure booth, and turn out some pretty good quality work. The Kirker was my favorite paint I have EVER shot period. It covered completely in two coats (in red without sealer)! The gloss seems to be just as good as any higher end SS or BC/CC job, and the paint was WONDERFUL to work with. I know by now you are thinking "NO WAY"... that's what I thought too! I shot a few test panels a month ago and loved it, but I sure didn't want to say anything good or bad before I actually used it on a vehicle, well... it worked great.
I have no idea what the longevity will be, but I have a feeling it will be pretty good. I know that JCCLARK (another forum member) shot it on his orange Civic and has had good luck with it. He did say that it was very thin and watery when he shot it, so he shot it dry like a regular BC (but he didn't use the LazerDry). My experience with it was totally different... I found it to be almost the same consistency as SPI universal clear that has been reduced 10-15%. This made for an easy to shoot product that gave me no problems. I will be shooting the rest of the car tomorrow so I will give an update on that as well, just thought I would give my 2 cents...
Paint turned out real well, low amount of dirt/trash and good layout. Now before I talk about materials and equipment let me give the following disclosure..."don't skimp on materials, always use quality products!" You have put far to much work into a product to cut corners now.
With that being said... on this project I used Kirker Flame Red SS urethane. I shot it with an Iwata LPH400 1.3 tip at 22 psi (silver cap). I mixed in 30% HOK UFC 35 clear with the SS on the last 2 coats.
I only used Kirker b/c I see so much hatred toward it, but not much "real world" experience to back it up, so I had to give it a shot. This is a personal car and if the paint fades in 2-3 years... so what! All the hard work is already done, I will sand it and re-shoot it with PPG or Dupont or Spies. I did mix in the House of Kolor UFC35 clear on the last coats so I would imagine that will give it a little better life (if it doesn't react poorly with the Kirker and delaminate or something worse). Again, I am not suggesting that rookies, or amatuers take this route, I just did it b/c of the car that it was going on, and I wanted to do a little test. Not something I would ever do on a paying customers car without having some "firsthand" experience to go off of!
Now for my unbiased opinion of the Kirker AU... IT WAS GREAT! I have shot thousands of dollars of Dupont Chromabase (and Chromapremier), PPG, Spies, and some of the lower lines like Nason and Omni. I am not a newbie (but not an old pro either), I shoot in my homebuilt positive pressure booth, and turn out some pretty good quality work. The Kirker was my favorite paint I have EVER shot period. It covered completely in two coats (in red without sealer)! The gloss seems to be just as good as any higher end SS or BC/CC job, and the paint was WONDERFUL to work with. I know by now you are thinking "NO WAY"... that's what I thought too! I shot a few test panels a month ago and loved it, but I sure didn't want to say anything good or bad before I actually used it on a vehicle, well... it worked great.
I have no idea what the longevity will be, but I have a feeling it will be pretty good. I know that JCCLARK (another forum member) shot it on his orange Civic and has had good luck with it. He did say that it was very thin and watery when he shot it, so he shot it dry like a regular BC (but he didn't use the LazerDry). My experience with it was totally different... I found it to be almost the same consistency as SPI universal clear that has been reduced 10-15%. This made for an easy to shoot product that gave me no problems. I will be shooting the rest of the car tomorrow so I will give an update on that as well, just thought I would give my 2 cents...
#65
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
What 3M part number / tape thickness do you use for the side mouldings? I'll be doing this too and was wondering what tape I should get for the job. Tx.
#68
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
Amazing thread, can't believe I missed it when you first posted it...
Thanks for sharing coletrain777! My Milano Red CX is in desperate need of some paint love.
I'll be following this one closely and hope one day to find a knowledgeable painter like you seem to be to take care of my baby.
I have a set of mouldings man. They are the thin kind, flexible (don't use the tabs).
I've been trying to sell them, but you're such a great contributor with all your DIYs that if you want them, they are yours.
I'll even pay for shipping to Canada.
Thanks for sharing coletrain777! My Milano Red CX is in desperate need of some paint love.
I'll be following this one closely and hope one day to find a knowledgeable painter like you seem to be to take care of my baby.
I've been trying to sell them, but you're such a great contributor with all your DIYs that if you want them, they are yours.
I'll even pay for shipping to Canada.
#69
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
But ... I've actually been finding OEM thin side mouldings on local junkyard vehicles here in Canada. I have a few complete sets now. Evidently they used them locally on some vehicles as the optional side moulding you could order with the car... they are all taped on. (See my post here.) However, they used a one-sided thick high-density foam tape, then a thin double-sided tape on one side of that to attach to the car. This is a different method of attaching them from what the OP is suggesting, and I am keen to figure out the best method.
#72
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
Awesome bringing life back to that car.
Why didn't you flare the front and rear fenders so they could fit wider tires, since you were building new quarters anyway?
Why didn't you flare the front and rear fenders so they could fit wider tires, since you were building new quarters anyway?
#73
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
Thanks for the compliments guys... hope to get the rest sprayed today but work seems to be getting in the way
Black R - I didn't flare the fenders/quarters b/c this car will never be getting anything but the stock VX wheels. The car is strictly a MPG car (avg 53.4 mpg over 6K miles so far), and wider heavier wheels would defeat the goal of max mpg. I looked for a LOOOONNNNGG time for a reasonably priced VX with no mods, just looking to keep it stock. Feels weird saying that, I never keep a car or motorcycle stock
Black R - I didn't flare the fenders/quarters b/c this car will never be getting anything but the stock VX wheels. The car is strictly a MPG car (avg 53.4 mpg over 6K miles so far), and wider heavier wheels would defeat the goal of max mpg. I looked for a LOOOONNNNGG time for a reasonably priced VX with no mods, just looking to keep it stock. Feels weird saying that, I never keep a car or motorcycle stock
#74
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
How do I separate the lousy paint guys from the good ones? What kind of questions should I be asking of a paint shop to find out if they are going to do quality work? Kind of an open-ended question but this insight would be really helpful when it comes time to hire someone to paint, and have it last.
#75
Re: 92 Civic VX rust repair pics
How do I separate the lousy paint guys from the good ones? What kind of questions should I be asking of a paint shop to find out if they are going to do quality work? Kind of an open-ended question but this insight would be really helpful when it comes time to hire someone to paint, and have it last.
I am actually considering driving ~700 miles to have my car sprayed by coletrain777, even sent him a PM.
I really want my paintjob to be perfect, when the time comes.