SiB16A

i have a 92 hatch si, it's bone stock. The fuel pump isn't priming when i turn the key. The motor cranks, but is not turning. I have searched and came up with the same results. Check Fuses, Check Main Relay by swapping it out with my friends hatch, Checked Grounds on the thermostat and etc... Then went back and checked every fuse again also checked the fuses under hood. Also checked fuel pump wires for shorts and i came up with nothing.

Help....

SiB16A

damn someone help me asap

Redline130

I guess we're in the same boat then: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1567932

Sux, hope we get some insight.

civicb16eg

is there a CEL?....do u have gas in the car?....atleast half

SiB16A

i have 1/4 tank in the car. I checked for fuel out of the fuel rail and there is none the i turn the key. The CEL will stay on as long as the key is in the ON position

TylerB

<-- Same boat https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1565817

Bump for help

dohcdelsol

as a last resort, your fuel pump is dead....

but i bet its something else, did u check for power to the fuel pump with a test light???

were you messing with something before and then this happened or was it randomly one day you walk out to ur car and it didnt start???

you could add fuel but i highly doubt that change anything unless like something is lodged up in the tank.

try replacing the fuse even if it doesnt look blown.

all lights and everything else work? You will get a CEL with this problem and i bet its code 43 (fuel system) or 91 (low input)

Check your CEL and let us know what its throwing

NJcoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiB16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have 1/4 tank in the car. I checked for fuel out of the fuel rail and there is none the i turn the key. The CEL will stay on as long as the key is in the ON position</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fried ecu.

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idriveacoupe. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Fried ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not necessarily...he could have a blown ecu fuse therefore th CEL is always on...try checking the ecu fuse under the hood...if not then trying resetting your ecu

7808

mine did that when i had a bad chipped ecu.. maybe the ecu

wez

had exactly the same problem mate, try your distributer to see if it sparks, if not it will be the ecu, if just the fuel puml, remove back seat, remove metal plate and place a bulb across the 2 wires. if it lights up the fuel pump as gone. just replace should be ok then. if its ur ecu let us know, i just had mine repaired but cost just short of £250 but they do a good job.

hope this helps

SiB16A

i hot wire'd the fuel pump.. it works fine.. the ecu doesnt get power.. i switched in 2 different ecu from "WORKING" cars and it didnt change a thing.. i took a car to a shop i know.. maybe ill get this figured out soon and help all the people out once i find out the problem.. i have checked everything mentioned.. its down to last resort... good luck to all the others wit the same problem

Redline130

Any update on your car?

dem0nk1d

Check you fuses under the hood, one controls the ecu. Also bad fuel pump, or main relay. But check your fuses

IHateJDM

get a multimeter and check the ignition switch.

dem0nk1d

Yeah i had that happen once, where i bought a bad ign switch. To where the car would get fuel but no spark. Exchanged it at the junk yard, and started right up like a CHAMP.

mugenhatch92

try the fuse in the car, that has the yellow cap on it... that is what happened to me... and that fuse was the problem

aaaabbbb

we tried all the suggestions mentioned... but nothing as of yet.. thanks

mugenhatch92

did you check the tranny ground?? that will cause it to do that.....

Contender25

If you look in the haynes manual for 92-95 civic and del sol, i remember it saying something about the 92 models had a problem or recall on something to do with the check valve in the fuel system or whatever it was called. Go to you're auto parts store and check it out, should say in the front part of the book.

wez

have you checked for power coming from the ecu to feed the fuel pump?

i very much doubt there is if the main relay etc are working fine.

if there isn't power coming out i would imagine there isn't power going in to feed the ecu as you've already tried various ecu's.

try checking the feed in and out of the ecu with an electric tester and let us know what ya find.

civic93@8psi

check the 50amp ing. fuse under hood

ralphie14

My 93 Si will so that every once in a while. I will go to start it and I get nothing (I can tell because I have no rear interior and the whinebro does not hum) but I just click the key on and off and usually within a couple tries it primes. If you have your seats out try wiggling the wires coming out of the cover then turning the key from off to II a few times and see if it will prime for you. Other than that I think about everything else might have been mentioned by now.

B18C5-EH2

I'm in a big hurry so just read this copy and pasted froma topic I started about cars spinning over, but not starting:

Summers in full swing, and I see more and more "My car spins over, but won't start" topics here, and I expect that since summertime brings out the worst in electrical components for our Civics.
So you get in your car, try and start it, but it only spins over?

First of all these steps only apply for a car that has enough battery juice to power up the starter enough to spin the car over normally. If you've tried starting the car so many times that your battery is weak, find a jump box or cables and go from there.

The most common problem is the main fuel pump relay, and you do not have to do much to diagnose it.

1. Turn the key into the "on" position and watch for the check engine light to go out just as the third key chime beep beeps. As the light goes out you should hear a faint "clink" noise coming from under the dash on the driver's side (passenger side for EK Civics), near the hood release lever. If you hear no "clink" then you need a main relay. They cost maybe $60.00 new at Honda, and they are a snap to replace. If you're a cheap bastard and cannot afford a new one, it can be repaired with a soldering iron and some knowledge, but i'd just buy a new one.

So you hear the "clink" noise, but still no starting, eh?

Well now it's time to dig a bit deeper. you need to figure out if you're not getting spark or fuel. 99% of spinning over, but not starting problems are from either no fuel or fire. the other 1% is no compression, and that just isn't common.

1. Checking for spark.

Grab up a long screwdriver and pull one plug wire out of the cylinder. Stick the tip of the screw driver into the plug wire end far enough to make contact with the metal tab in the wire to the tip of the screw driver. Tilt the handle of the screwdriver so that you hold the shaft of the screwdriver near any metal surface - i use one of the valvecover hold down nuts. Have a friend (if you have any) spin the car over. If you see sparks between the shaft of the screwdriver and the other metal surface, then you have spark. If not, then you have a problem getting spark then.

2. If you have no spark then there are a few different parts that can cause this. *Usually* it is the ignition coil, loctaed inside your distributor. It is a little box with a spring sticking out of it with a goldish case around it, and it's held in with two phillps screws once you get your car and rotor out of the way. I don't know of any real way of checking one out of the car other than replacing it with a known good one. A lot of times the coil will have burn/flash marks on it if it's bad, or going bad. a new coil from honda is about $90.00.

3. The other common (but not as common as the coil) is the ignitor module. It is a flat plastic-looking piece inisde the distributor with a few tabs with wires hooked up to it. I believe it's also held in with a few screws. again I know of no visual cues that an ignitor is bad, so if you can get another, try it out. a new ignitor from Honda is also about $90.00.

4. Another blanket way to fix the no spark would be a good new distributor from http://www.distributorking.com. this way you get a new base with sensors, coil, ignitor, cap, rotor, etc. all for a little more than the cost of an ignitor or coil.

The last item that can cause spinning over, but not starting is the ignition switch pigtail assembly. When these go bad they typically allow the car to crank for a second, but then it shuts right back off. I diagnose these by simply cranking the car and backing off the key just enough to disengage the starter, but still be in the full "crank" position. If you let go of the key and it springs back into the normal position and the engine dies, you need a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion. do not confuse this with the entire ignition assembly with lock cylinder - it's just the electrical harness. These are pretty cheap, but a PITA to install.

Hope this helps some of you guys.

Now what if the main relay works, and you have spark, but still no starting?

Time to check for fuel, and it's easy.

Grab a 12mm wrench and loosen the banjo nut on top of your fuel filter, and have someone turn the key into the "on" position - he may not even have to try and spin the car over. If you get no fuel spray, then you are not getting fuel, and if the main relay is in fact working, it's time for a fuel pump.

The fuel pump is located in an access panel under your rear seat cushion. I personally would try and find a used Integra fuel pump or even a new one if you can afford the pricetag - aftermarket ones suck ***. I say Integra because it's an upgrade, especially if you can get a GS-R one.

The rest of the topic with some more good info:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320931

B18C5-EH2

Okay I just read the topic and you really need to double check the ECU fuse in the unerhood fuse box, and the ACGS fuse in the under dash box too.

I've had an ACGS fuse really screw me over before when I sold my old Civic and it blew a few days later. Gave every indication of it being main relay, but that didn't fix it.

Sorry if you've already checked them well.


Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 10:13 AM 4/6/2006