zonk

I have trouble shot this thing as far as I can, there is no power to the distributor. what would be a good idea to check in order try and see what could be the cause of this, I have checked all fuses and everything was good. I am wondering if the ignition control module could be causing this. I also need to check the coil pack but I haven't a clue as to where that is. I was also wondering where exactly the ICM is located. I have been trying to use my haynes manual and the lack of picture illustrations has got me lost. any help is appreciated

Former User

Are you saying that you measure 0V at the BLK/YEL wire attached to the igniter unit in the distributor when the key is turned to ON(II)?

zonk

the black and yellow wire was tested yes

not sure what OV stands for
problem started out as the fuel pump not kicking on when the ignition was turned.
we first thought it may be the fuel relay which was a common problem for the d15b7's but nothing happened after replacing it so I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump also. I got my neighbor to test the electrical for me being I know nothing of electronics to discover that no power on the yellow/green stripe wire was powering the fuel pump so we bypassed it and tested the fuel pump which fired right up. so we decided to try and start the car. we took a plug wire off and tested it for voltage and there was no power to it, we then went to the distributor and discovered it had no power going to it. the neighbor says the distributor is good. I have some guesses as to what the problem may be, but I am not sure if any of these are related to the problem. the car was last run in november when I came home for mid tour leave from iraq. it fired up ran for a second or two then died and hasn't started since. I am not trying to sound desperate but I really want to get this car back on the road.

Former User

0V = zero volts
When you tested for voltage at the BLK/YEL wire in the distributor, was the key turned to ON(II)? If so, have you checked whether 50A fuse 39 or 80A fuse 41 under the hood is blown?

When you turn the key to position ON(II), do any of the dash lights illuminate? If not, the ignition switch may be bad.

When you turn the key to position ON(III) [=start], does the starter motor crank the engine?

zonk

when turned on the lights on the dash comes on (along with the check engine light). the motor turns freely and has no hesitations. I will have to double check with the neighbor about the black yellow wire to see if the switch was turned on.

Former User

If the ignition switch is not turned to ON(II), then you should measure 0V at the BLK/YEL wire. In ON(II), however, you should measure battery voltage (~12V) at this wire in the distributor.

When you turn the key to ON(II), the check engine light (CEL) should illuminate for two seconds and then turn OFF. Does it remain ON? If so, pull the CEL code(s) from the ECU as described here.

If it turns out that you have voltage at the BLK/YEL wire in the distributor, then check for spark at the plugs as described here. We already know that the fuel pump doesn't prime, so we now want to know whether you also lack spark at the plugs.

Check whether fuse 31 under the hood or fuse 18 or 24 under the dash is blown.

slow96lude

you know your stuff ronJ. we had a problem with this on a swap i did a while back which was a nightmare. we found some wiring was backward in the obd0 to obd1 harness s after fixing that we we had power to it but not at the plugs so we replaced the ignitor in the dizzy and it ran fine

zonk

ok the check engine light is no longer coming on which has me concerned....no power to the black and yellow on the dizzy.

only lights i am getting now is the battery and srs. the dash clock and all other lights are inop

slow96lude

definatly not good. icm could have went out. is it a swap. because like i said we had just two wires backward on the harness and it was effed

zonk

naw man, it is the original motor

166k on it.

got the dizzy taken apart and now i need to get a new rotor for it and a new cap....

zonk

icm failed the trouble shooting steps in my haynes manual...looks like a much needed trip to the junk yard is in order

Former User

Even if the ICM is bad, the engine still won't start after replacing the ICM if the distributor has no power. Check whether the crucial ground wire on the thermostat housing is disconnected, broken, loose, or corroded.

Also check whether 10A fuse 15 under the dash is blown.

slow96lude

gotta have those grounds.

jtmartin96civic

Listen to ron. He is probably one of the most helpful members on HT when it comes to stuff like this... Have gotten much help from him in the past. I'll vouch for him everytime.

zonk

ok wilco

checked the fuse, it was ok but i replaced it with a new one just to be cautious. I will let you know what I find when i check the other stuff

jtmartin96civic

if you're unsure about fuses then see if you can pick up a multimeter and check them for resistance... there should be very little to NO resistance I would guess 0-5 Ohms.

zonk

checked the thermostat ground, pin 6 has no power going to it, replaced the distributor . while checking I replaced the plugs, fuel filter, and plug wires. still not getting any spark or power to the fuel pump. only lights that are working on the dash are the battery and srs light.

Former User

What pin 6 that has no power are you referring to?

zonk

the one that plugs into the fuel relay...i had got this forum and civic forums mixed up with a question someone had asked me

slow96lude

try replacing the main relay. or resoldering the points in it

Former User

What information here is and is not relevant to this thread?

zonk

the mention of the other forum i guess, just trying to answer all questions.


where is the main relay located?

zonk

civic was fixed, turned out to be a bad computer.

thank you guys for all the trouble shooting help, helped the guy out tremendously by letting him know what tests have been run