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Tach Bouncing not Dizzy. In desperate need of help.

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Old 06-11-2021, 05:49 AM
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Icon4 Tach Bouncing not Dizzy. In desperate need of help.

This may end up long so I can give background..
The car is a 93 cx with a 2000 B18c5 motor in it and a 94 GSR engine harness(OBD1).
I bought the car with the swap already done, it ran great besides burning oil. Shortly after buying it I spun a rod bearing. Had the motor rebuilt and did a full n/a build on it. Skunk intake manifold, larger pistons with higher CR, skun2k2 stage 3 tuner cams, headers, RDX injectors, walboro 255 pump, chipped p28. I had the motor built and tuned by a local reputable honda shop. When I went to start it the car wouldn't prime the pump or crank, replaced the main relay and the fuel pump would prime and the car would crank. Replaced the Dizzy and the car started the first shot, Neither I nor my buddy ever remember grounding anything that might have fried stuff but something obviously happened. The Dizzy I used was a Duralast gold with a lifetime warranty. With all the money spent on the build, I couldn't afford OEM and couldn't find one used.

After the car would warm up the tach would start to jump on pulls up a hill and would break up a little. So I replaced the distributor for the first time. ran great for a month or so then started to jump again so I replaced it again. Right away this one is jumping around when it's hot out and the car is hot and cruising even on flat roads. The car does break up a little bit when it's jumping. Now I know it is possible to have 3 bad dizzy's right out of the box but the likelihood is super low.

To add to the weirdness last month I was getting on the highway was at about 3k RPM, downshifted which took it to about 6k, Redline is set for 8600, and the car felt like it just hit a power wall, literally. It lost so much power I thought I broke something major. but I shifted back up and it ran fine. Ever since then if I try to engage vtec or shift in above vtec the car has no power. You can hear everything open up and the motor gets louder like the cam switched over, but the car just doesn't go anywhere, shift up so it's lower RPMs and the car drives normally. It's almost like the car is hitting fuel cut. And before anyone asks yes I checked my oil level and all the grounds are good. In fact, I added a second ground to the valve cover studs to the chassis on the passenger side of the motor. Also The fuel pressure guage I have on my AEM fuel rail shows 42 psi at idle

I'm really hoping you guys can help I miss my little NA monster and I'm at my wits end. I have thought about pulling the trigger on the burton racing coil on plug set up to eliminate the Dizzy all together, but I'm not convinced that's my issue.

I'm more concerned about the loss of power than a bouncing needle but I think they are related.
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