94_DX

Is it normal operation to be able to shift the transmission from Drive to Neutral without having to press the button on the shifter handle?

slowDB7

My old one did that, i think i only had to press the button to go into and come out of park iirc

Former User

Yes

TomCat39

Another question on these transmissions of the 92-95 era....

Anyone know if the cooler lines are 3/8" or 5/16"?

I'm looking to add a magnefine tranny filter to keep the fluids clean and prolong the life of the tranny. Not sure which one will be a better fit.

PrettyMuchBoned

bump for interest. I always like a fat cooler on my trans

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

25212-P24-A01

There's the part number for one of the hoses. A quick search doesn't tell me anything other than length, but it's only $10, so you could always buy it and measure it.

TomCat39

Comparing rulers, the difference between 3/8" and 5/16" is very little. I just bought 2 of the 3/8" magnefine filters. I figure if the rubber hoses are 5/16" I should be able to just stretch it over with a bit of elbow grease.

I'll find out once the filters arrive in my mailbox.

PrettyMuchBoned

Tomcat39, where were you planning on putting the filter? I'm sure there's a DIY somewhere, right? I'd rather have a 10 pass cooler than the 1 pass built into the radiator.

a filter would be a good idea too, since I dont think its easily accessible like on my v6 accord automatic

TomCat39

From everything I have understood about in line filtering, if you just replaced the cooler so it's clean, it's good to put it before the cooler. But if you are using the old dirty cooler, it's better to put it after the cooler on the return line so it catches any gunk that breaks free from the cooler once the fluid goes clean.

The magnefine filters have a 25 micron non ferrous filtering substrate and a magnet system that they claim picks up 99.9% down to 1 micron or something of the ferrous material and a bypass valve in the event that filter becomes full and can't pass the tranny fluid. I've read nothing but good reviews from both users and tranny rebuilders. The rebuilders say it's typically the ferrous materials in the fluid that cause the majority of failures due to the increased wear of the soft parts, it's usually not the hard parts that are failing or something of the like.

I do have another question about these older 4 speed trannies.... Do they typically shift a little hard. Almost but not quite clunking into gear? When we did our decent test drive yesterday after we swapped the plates, it seemed like the transmission ran smoothly overall just shifted a little harder than I'm used to. Didn't feel like outright clunking into gear, just not as softly as I'm used to with other manufacturer auto trans that I've driven.

Are these old 4 speeds transmissions supposed to shift super soft and smooth like a cadillac or is it more pronounced like a semi aggressive manual shifting driver?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Honda autotragics are...different than most other autos. They're cheaper to manufacture because of it, and so they're a little bit harsher than a luxury car.

PrettyMuchBoned

My accord v6 auto used to shift very smooth, since it started really going out it shifts rather hard, when it does actually engage and shift rather than fall out of gear.

my z6 auto shifts hard when im past 3rpm, when I first got on the gas I thought it was breaking too. But it has steadily shifted hard, with no change in condition nor fluid color/smell. Under 3,000rpms I barely notice the shifts.

when its cold it hesitates between gears, but IV heard this is normal, and it goes away once the car warms up.

TomCat39

Okay, thanks guys.

Looking in the manual it suggested hard shifting in all gears as a tight throttle cable as the only common factor for all gears. Looking in the manual for that, it shows a downward deflection of 10-12mm is properly adjusted throttle cable when car is warm.

When I pushed down on the cable it hardly moved but pushing up from underneath it deflected around 15 mm.

So I adjusted the cable to deflect down about 8-10mm when I push on it. Asked my wife to tell me if it was any better in shifting. If she says no I will be tightening the cable a touch so it's not too loose.

Can't say I'm familiar with honda throttle cables and know I can misinterpret the FSM.

TomCat39

An update on the old 4 speed auto 92-95.

The throttle cable by itself didn't do it but doing the throttle control cable after the throttle cable seemed to help as well as the fluid change/flush.

Also today I received the 3/8" (10mm) filters today, picked up some 3/8" automotive rubber hose (1 foot) and installed the filter after the cooler on the return line tonight. Car was driven one day after the flush without the filter but seemed to be alright. Wanted to have the filter in place immediately after the flush just to catch any gunk that frees up from the fresh fluid.

Anyways, the original hose and the extra foot is what made it possible to install with enough flex without any hose kinking. I have it strapped to the lower wind dam cover.

If you decide to flush your tranny, be sure to have this filter in place or you run the risk of killing your tranny prematurely from what I've heard.

Cheers. 3/8" is the answer.

94_DX

So, by Flush, are you meaning like having a Shop hook it up to a Flushing Apparatus? I've been told doing a flush like that on Auto Transmissions that have lots of miles is a very bad idea.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

true, and this is why 90-93 accords/88-95 civic auto transmissions last forever. honda attempted to please a whiny public who didnt like knowing their car shifted by changing torque converters and adjusting internal pressures. the result was the hot garbage odyssey/accord/tl/7g civic transmissions

crazyhouse2011

Your post made absolutely no sense, but I am interested. Please elaborate.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yes, that's a bad idea, because it frees up loose crap that the filters and magnets have caught, leaving them to wreak havoc on the clutch packs. The right way to do it is a 3x drain/fill. Drain it, refill it, run the car a couple miles, rinse and repeat two more times.

TomCat39

Not a shop flush, the back yard flush. Drain and fill tranny, then unhook return hose and pump a liter at a time out into drain pan/pitcher, put liter into tranny. Do this for about 6 liters and done. So transmission pump driven flush, not pressurized machine flush.

Anyway I look at it, I wanted a magnefine filter in place to capture anything the clean fluid ended up freeing up from the system.

Now my focus is how to buy some time on a knocking motor.

The reason why I didn't want to do this method is because it's the dilution method that will leave the most amount of old fluid mixed in, in my opinion. I thinking pumping 9 liters through the system in one shot replaces and dilutes the old fluid the most leaving the most fresh fluid in the system, the drawback is the inline filter is an absolute must in my opinion.

Time will tell though.

94_DX

You & me both. Does yours quiet down some once it warms up?

TomCat39

Maybe just a touch but not by much unfortunately. What bothers me is I didn't notice it when buying the car and I was listening closely for it both in the cab when driving and then with my head under the hood.

Wife has only driven it for about 2 weeks so don't know what the guy did to keep it quiet for the sale. Today I will change the oil in case he dumped in heavy weight oil to attempt shutting it up.

TomCat39

Well explicative explicative....

I asked in another thread and didn't get an answer. Does anyone know if the transmission fluid changes direction through the cooler?

Looking in the FSM it showed fluid directional flow changes during certain points of operation and I wanted to know if that was internal only or if it affected flow through the cooler also.

Wife seemed to have power issues going to work today and so I have to pop in and remove the filter (I know I didn't install it backwards) to see if the issues go away.

I am wanting to know if a one way valve/filter is just not possible with these transmissions or if it's just reducing flow enough to be an issue.

98civdx

DO NOT EVER power flush a Honda auto.


Drain/fill 3 times. Use Honda fluid.

TomCat39

I didn't power flush. Unless letting the transmission pump it's fluid out is considered power flushing.

Does anyone know if fluid changes direction through the cooler or is the return line always the return line?

98civdx

That wasn't aimed at you.

TomCat39

My bad, just frustrated with the car. Sorry if it seemed like I was directing it at you. Also, I can be corrected, if letting the tranny pump the fluid out for you is considered as a power flush..... Then I would be guilty.

Turns out the fluid is getting through the filter just fine, it's not the tranny but the motor that is really on it's last legs.

Looking at the oil when cold, I really think the seller put 20w50 in to quiet the motor down and the last two weeks of my wife driving it with 20w50 probably has made matters worse. I have one more trick up my sleeve to get some time out of the motor before it visits the grave yard.