SDPGreen

I must admit my ignorance regarding thinking "electrical", reading diagrams, etc.

Can someone give me layman''s terms describing how to test the dome light switch / assembly with a digital multimeter? I think the switch may be bad, and would like to determine if it is the switch before I chase other possibilities.

I believe my door jamb switches are good, and I just connected the radio wires that I read should re-enable the door-activated dome light. (In process of all of this, I blew 3 7.5 amp fuses, #43, under the hood. AND, I think the switch worked better before this wiring modification...).

Followed these directions re. jumping light green/black and light green/red wires from radio harness:

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...92/#post706611

I have this wiring schematic to work with:

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...e-light-66118/

Many thanks!

Former User

These are the circuit diagrams relevant to your car (with or without spotlights):

SDPGreen

Thanks RonJ

I'm looking for some quick tips on how to test the switch before I dig further .

With the assembly disconnected, I suppose I should check for conductivity at the bulb clips when the switch is "On" and in the middle / door position, and if both of those show a closed circuit, then the switch and housing are OK - does that sound right?

I'd like the problem to be the switch, now that I've shorted those wires together to try to fix the failure of the light to come on when door is open... We'll see.

Former User

What exactly is the problem? Is fuse 43 still blowing?

Do you have an EX, LX, DX, CX, HX? With or without spotlights/map lights?

SDPGreen

I'm at work now & haven't messed with it since yesterday evening.

At that point I had blown #43 a couple of times (maybe arcing when placing the housing assy back on the mounting bolts while "hot"?). Also, before I jumped the green wires in the dash I had been reading 12v between the power supply at the assy and a contact on the switch part of the assy - after jumping, the light still didn't energize when either door open (door jamb switch is good - headlight buzzer sounds), and I couldn't re-create that 12v reading. Seemed like time to call it a night. Looking forward to tackling it more this afternoon though.

Thanks for any tips RonJ. And thanks for tips on other Posts - I've used quite a few of them.

SDPGreen

Oh yeah - civic sedan ex, with the 2 "map lights" near the rearview mirror (they are wired together; only one switch; both on, or both off).

Former User

Unplug power to the dome and spot lights. Install new fuse into hood fuse box slot 43. Does fuse 43 still blow? The latter test is done by testing for battery voltage on both top test tabs of installed fuse 43. It is blown if only one tab shows battery voltage.

SDPGreen

Thanks RonJ

*****UPDATE*****

Light works in "On" and "Door" position!!! First time it's worked in "Door" since I've owned this vehicle!!!

I aspire to be able to interpret wiring diagrams and learn to use my multimeter more efficiently. This time I was wanting to rule the switch out & after scratching my head, determined there SHOULD be continuity btwn the ground blade (driver's side) and the ground stud when the switch was in On or Door. There was not, so I took the switch apart. It didn't look too bad, a bit worn & a little oxidized & w/ old grease on it. I cleaned the contacts (baking soda & water (let sit) & rag) and pulled out the slider a bit (watch out for spring loaded ball bearing) to stretch the spring & put it back together & I had continuity. So I popped her back in the car & it works!

Weird that the On position worked before I started messing with it, and then stopped working whenI did the wire jumping behind the dash... made diagnosing a bit tricky.

As I said, the Door position never worked - pretty sure I fixed that w/ the link above relating to aftermarket radios.

One observation though: I have 12.67v between the blades in my map lights, but only 12.43v in the dome on "Door" setting, and only 12.02v on "On" setting.

Do you reckon that's an indicator that the contacts need to be cleaned more thoroughly? Or indicates something else?...

Switching gears a little bit: Keyless entry. I have the remote; it's never worked. From what I've read, I'd need to either find a stock radio & install it behind the dash, or go with a complete after-market keyless entry if I wanted it to work. Just wanted to throw that out there in case I'm missing something and someone has a work-around.

Former User

There will be a voltage drop with the light on.

You'll need the stock radio from an LX or EX.

SDPGreen

Gotchya, thanks a lot RonJ.