Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

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Old 12-23-2012, 12:28 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

Originally Posted by hwyix
It can be nothing else if it works without a T-stat. Take out your tstat put it in boiling water with a temp guage and see when it opens. Normally I would just replace the tstat because it is waste of time and tstats or so cheap, but since you already did that a bunch of times, test it. Make sure the little jiggle think is at the 12 oclock postion. If your tstat works, I would just drill one or two little holes in it. That should be enough to let it flow
water/restrictive enough for your heater to work.


I would still replace the radiator cap. Very cheap and they wear out all the time.

im still getting good heat even though the bottom hose is cold?? idk why lol also when i cap it upper and lower hose gets verry hard
Old 12-23-2012, 12:32 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

Originally Posted by johnnyboi4o1
im still getting good heat even though the bottom hose is cold?? idk why lol also when i cap it upper and lower hose gets verry hard
There are different hoses for the heater. Not every things goes through the tstat. Different car manufacture do it several different ways.

I don't understand what you meant in the BOLD.
Old 12-23-2012, 01:32 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

oh whoops i was in a rush when i typed that, but i was refering to your previouse post when you said i should try a new radiator cap, and meant to ask, if i had a bad radiator cap will i still build pressure on both hoses, wich i am they are almost rock solid lol think i should change it out anyways? they are fairly inexpensive...
Old 12-23-2012, 05:44 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

A good cap will raise the boiling boint of coolant/water. On a LOT of cars the fans will not kick on until 220 or higher. If you had a bad/marginal cap on your fans would have never kicked on.

I have no idea if the cap is your problem but it such a cheap thing does a very important job.
A cap is like $10. Just replace that damn thing!!!!!
Old 12-24-2012, 07:20 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

when the head gasket went on my y7 it would overheat on the highway unless the heater was on full. and it didn't really smoke just missed a bit when first started no oil in coolant or coolant in oil . the exhaust gas's can get trapped by the t-stat and insulate it from the hot coolant causing it to not open (cold lower hose) and push it back out the upper hose . they sell a tester to check for exhaust gases in the coolant (blue fluid that turns yellow when c0 is present .
Old 12-24-2012, 08:25 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

Originally Posted by canadaek
when the head gasket went on my y7 it would overheat on the highway unless the heater was on full. and it didn't really smoke just missed a bit when first started no oil in coolant or coolant in oil . the exhaust gas's can get trapped by the t-stat and insulate it from the hot coolant causing it to not open (cold lower hose) and push it back out the upper hose . they sell a tester to check for exhaust gases in the coolant (blue fluid that turns yellow when c0 is present .
nice im going to call some autopart stores to see if they have that o2 tester
Old 12-24-2012, 08:26 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

c0*
Old 12-24-2012, 08:30 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

Originally Posted by johnnyboi4o1
c0*
ya carbon monoxide sorry
Old 12-24-2012, 10:47 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

alright guys went to napa auto parts to buy the carbon monoxide tester i followed the instruction i did it with out my Tstat cause thats the only way my coolant will flow, and the blue liquid stayed blue i pump in the radiator gas as instructed not draw in coolant for 1 minute waited about 5 minutes and the blue liquid stayed blue so i guess its safe to say its not the HG
Old 12-24-2012, 01:29 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

it could take a little while for the gases to build up maybe try again in a day or 2 . have you felt the coolant tube across the back of the block ?
Old 12-24-2012, 01:34 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

alright ill try it again in a couple days since its going to be raining, and are u talking about the tub that comes off the tstat and runs to the water pump behind the block, that was hot as well
Old 12-24-2012, 01:43 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

ya that was the one i meant . have you tried jacking the front of the car up to bleed the coolant ?
Old 12-24-2012, 01:52 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

yup still nothing, i also had the funnel thing let the car warm up fill the funnel half way, left the front of the car on jack stands and left it overnight..
Old 12-25-2012, 03:46 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

I had the same issue. You have air inside your coolant system because the GSR doesn't have a bleeder screw. I know you said you bled it...it was just running with the radiator cap open right? Drive it until it gets hot, let it cool off and repeat...it should be fine after 10 cycles or less.

Trust me, had the same problem, searched, pressure tested, head was going to explode and then common sense kicked in.

If it was your radiator cap like some idiots are mentioning you'd notice a lot of coolant inside your engine bay because when that cap gives in, it blows your bypass hose off the radiator and then everything is covered in coolant, seen it happen.
Old 12-25-2012, 05:30 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

Originally Posted by rice a roni
I had the same issue. You have air inside your coolant system because the GSR doesn't have a bleeder screw. I know you said you bled it...it was just running with the radiator cap open right? Drive it until it gets hot, let it cool off and repeat...it should be fine after 10 cycles or less.

Trust me, had the same problem, searched, pressure tested, head was going to explode and then common sense kicked in.

If it was your radiator cap like some idiots are mentioning you'd notice a lot of coolant inside your engine bay because when that cap gives in, it blows your bypass hose off the radiator and then everything is covered in coolant, seen it happen.
I have an 0bd1 gsr the bleeder valve is on top of the front radidator hose, i read that 0bd2 blocks dont have em, or i could be wrong, but hey wouldnt hurt to give it a shot ill try that tomorrow i need to go get gas anyways lol running low after soo many hours of warming her up in the drive way trying to figure out this head ech issue
Old 12-25-2012, 08:05 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

Any idea on the mileage of the motor?
I'd suggest the timing belt/water pump combo, as a precaution if you have no when it was done last. Protect your investment, and eliminate that as a possible cause.
Old 12-25-2012, 08:24 AM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

Originally Posted by Ryan96GSR
Any idea on the mileage of the motor?
I'd suggest the timing belt/water pump combo, as a precaution if you have no when it was done last. Protect your investment, and eliminate that as a possible cause.
i have no idea what the millage is on that egine, but that is a good idea i was thinking about just replacing those anyway only because i dont know when was it last replace...
Old 12-26-2012, 09:24 PM
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Default Re: 1997 civic hatch cx Gsr swap overheat problem

okay yall so i managed to fix my overheating problem turns out it was not my water pump,head gasket, Tstat, or radiator lucky i had my buddies 00 integra GS parked at my house and decided to look underneath the bonnet, right away i notice the heater line on his came out the heater core went right to the tstat housing, mine went to the connecting water pipe? i thought to my self "if no hot coolant is flowing to the Tstat housing how would the Tstat open"? so just for Sh*ts and Giggles i decided to switch my coolant lines around and it Works!, im not sure if the way i ran it is correct but it works for me!, no more over heating, coolant is flowing, heat works,bottom hose warm, fan kicks on


this is what i found on Team-integra.net


this is how i ran mines
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