Integra4lyfe069

the pully bolt came loose on the crank pully and the keyset came out and got all grinded up
the bolt is fine and i dont think it snapped unless its longer then whats in my pic.

Heres a pic of the work area

heres a pic of the pully bolt

heres a pic of the pully

heres a pic of the damaged keyset wall

heres a pic of the damaged keyset itself

and another one of the keyset wall

since the bolt isnt snapped and prolly the hole a little stripped the two options i see are

goto honda buy a new keyset and use green locktite around the hole area of the keyset wall and put the pull on and hammer in the keyset i get from honda let it sit for 24 hours and hope that it bonds for life cause im not to worried about getting it back off cause im doing engine swap next year anyway.

then after thats cured i can put jb weld on the bolt threads and and inside the hole and torque the bolt in .

problem is the pully assembly moves when the bolt gets tight and rdy for torquing, how do i stop the whole pully from moving ?

if theres a better way or any idea u know of let me know

Hybrid96EK

There is no reason you should be trying to oakie rig that like you mentioned. That keyway is trashed. The only two options you should even be thinking about both include pulling that crankshaft out. Your option is:

Remove the crankshaft and simply replace it. or..

Remove the crankshaft and have a machine shop weld/grind the surface back up

Trying to rig that to work is just plain stupid and asking for more damage.

Integra4lyfe069

unfortunatly some peoplej ust dot have the money to goto machine shops and get welds done and if they do --- i accually do... but i dont have a second car to get parts off this one and just goto the store with lol.

i live in an apartment i cant exactly take the engine apart in the complex parking lot, i do my work in my gfs drive way but it cant sit there while i pull the engine out and put new cranks in.

im trying to temp fix this so i can move it from her driveway i only have three days cause im blocking in their cars and their on holidays lol.

i have a garage im going to then im gonna rip the engine out and get to replacing the crank from one at a junk yard, but i need a temp fix now.

if any1 could help.

Hybrid96EK

You don't have the money to fix this but you have the money to swap the engine? You don't have anywhere to work on the car, but you are going to swap it?

Your not saving yourself much if you oakie that crank pulley back on there. The harmonic balancer is key to engine life, the timing marks possibly won't line up correctly, and the snout of that crank is damaged very badly. Chances are even after all that work the pulley is going to wobble. Thats going to spell destruction. I really don't know what to tell you here. This is part of owning a vehicle. If you can't maintain it, then you don't drive it. I don't see any other way around it. Try to rig it up if you feel the need to.. I'm just saying that what you are "saving" here is potentially going to cost you a lot more in the long run.

Integra4lyfe069

i was talking bout switching the engine next year. snd right now its in my gfs driveway blocking in two cars. luckily no1s home so they dont need the cars. they return in 2 days and i need it out of here.

im trying to temp fix this so i can get the car reversed out of the driveway so i can get it towed to my uncles in the next city where i can take the engine out and put the car aside for a month or so.

i get money at the end of the month so im going to buy a new crank shaft and the harmonic balancer looks to be fine so i dont need to replace this, i dont need to replace my bolt, and the pully still grabs the crankshaft and turns it, but i dont have the key to keep the pully from moving so i cannot torque the pully down.

Hybrid96EK

If all you want is to back it up and tow it then I don't see why the rush to rig it? Fire it up, without the crank pulley on, and back it up. Get it on the tow truck and be done.

Integra4lyfe069

so ittl work without the crank pully on ???

how does it turn.

when i turn it on the batteyr light comes on and the car wants to die lol

starts to shake make loud as noise

this was with the pully hangin in there. i didint try sine i took it off
r u sure its safe and wont kill my engine or something else

Hybrid96EK

To simply reverse the car out of the driveway? Yeah. so long as the key that holds the timing gear to the crankshaft is in good shape and holding the timing belt gear like it should... you should be fine for a brief move. If you are really worried about it, push it...

Integra4lyfe069

i cant its uphill here driveway is on a slope, and their cars r in their garage at the bottom and my car is on the bottom flat just b4 the garage, behind me is the inclinded driveway lol

so yeh basically without the pully on it ittl just wear down the battery cause the altinator isnt moving right ?

Hybrid96EK

If you had to drive for a long time, then yeah... but something like a quick in and out of the driveway it shouldn't cause any trouble with the battery. Like I said.. so long as the pulley that connects the timing belt is still keyed to the crank, your fine.

Integra4lyfe069

wouldnt happen to have any service manual pics of that system would you?

and unless the wobble that was in it on the way to her house that night knocked out the key we should be fine hopefully

Integra4lyfe069

Well it turns out the walls of the crank is too badly dmged for the keyset to sit properly and function right.

Also the inside teeth of the pully is ****ed. (like worn out, no grooves left

I bought a new keyset and I Have bought a new harmonic crankshaft pully.
the pully was from a scrap yard and cost me 50$, its in good condition and has all the teeth and no dmg to keyset area.

I can get a used crankshaft at the same scrap yard for 100$-150$ depending if my hookup guy is there or not when i goto buy it.
Anything i should inspect on it before buying it to make sure its good?

Once i obtain this I'm gonna start taking my engine out and get it set on a engine stand in my garage so i can start to tear it apart to replace the crankshaft.

I'm wondering if there are any gaskets and or seals besides the head gasket, valve cover gasket, spark plug o rings that i will need to replace?

I am not exactly sure yet as to whats coming off due to the fact i never took an engine apart before but i have the haynes manual thats gonna tell me step by step, but i just havnt read it yet and im trying to get a aprts list put together first.

If you could help me with some parts/materials ill need to get this thing done fully, that would be the biggest help ever!


Ive decided to go this route and not do the quick fix cause ittl just break again and ill be more pissed cause next time ittl prolly bring something else with it.

anyway the engine when i turn it on it sounds like its knocking and its loud, coming from the engine bay. IS this normal when the pully and things r off/loose? or is this a sign of bad internals aswell ?

Integra4lyfe069

I think you work with the block upside down when working with the crankshaft right?.
So would. Removing just the oil pan and oil pump give me the access I need to do the work i need without pulling the engine tranny head,block etc lol.
















Is it true that I can just take off the oil pan and oil pump and just take the crank out from the block from under the car and do the work like this ?, if so then this has saved a **** TON of work and hassle..

with this said i was told i could start up my engine with the belt and pully and bolt off so i could move the car. i did this so i could get it out of the way of my gfs driveway and upon start of the car i hear loud knocking noise from the engine bay, could there possibly be more dmg? or is it normal cause theres no outter harmonic pully on ?

thanks in advanced

Hybrid96EK

No. You need to disconnect the transmission, clutch and flywheel and then pull the rear main seal as well as the oil pump, oil pan, oil pickup and windage tray. From there you can pull the main caps and remove the crank. Since you are there, you should rebuild the whole damn thing at this point. Is that engine a D16Y8? If so, those are WELL known for spun rod bearings.. this could be the knock you hear. If you ARE going to replace the crank and not the engine, then you should source a Z6 crank. They have much better oiling for the main bearings and will resolve your spun bearing issue from happening again. Get some bearings, rods, mains, and thrusts. The oil pump "gasket" is comprised of Hondabond as well as the rear main. The actual mating surface of the rear main to the block, not the rear main itself. Pickup a rear main, and oil pan gasket and a head gasket. The rest should be gravy. Im not sure what your plans are but you could also build the bottom end for boost and have a damn quick/reliable setup while you are in there...

Integra4lyfe069

im gonna tear the engine out and put the car somewhere for 3 months or so,

a z6 crank comes from which car/engine so i know what im looking for at scrap yards

Hybrid96EK

92-95 Civic EX/SI. Its the previous year sohc vtec engine. Were you going to just rebuild to stock or were you planning to build it up for boost or something? There is somewhat of a reason that I ask.

Integra4lyfe069

well money is tight right now because we just paid off both the cars and moved in to a new house. So Im just looking to get it to work right now so gf can have her car back and transportation to n from work, right now im bringing her in my integra.

i have this car and a 95 integra. but its an inconvenience cause i work too and i have to go total opposite. also just getting around after hours n doing things is a big hassle.

So just to stock for now.

My uncle scraps cars and is giving me his workshed to do it and engine hoist to take it out and has all the tools that i dont so i wont be needing to buy anything or pay for labour , only the parts.

i already have the harmonic pully brand new and the new keyset, new belts and every kind of thread locker and hondabond.

I just need a list of parts ill need and gaskets so i can properly note them and take them to honda/scrapyards.

in terms of the new crank im just gonna go with one from a crap yard due to significant price savings. if this is bad idea let me know, also could you tell me what else i need to get and if it would be ok to get them at the scrap yard too.

OR i could also just get a whole block and put it in with my head, i would obviously get the block with the z6 setup. the entire setup would prolly only cost me a couple hundred bucks then i wouldnt need to do 50%of the work rebuilding. jus swap.?

let me know what u think.

Now this time next year i will be taking both the engines out for full rebuilds for tuning purposes and turbo etc.

the plan was to pay them off first save some money and we were planing to lease a truck set. giving us 100% freetime to overhaul everything on the cars.

also time to save money .
were only young so this is wh ywere being cautious and slow.

but anyway if u can help me just get it working for now itd be great.

im def wondering bout that knocking noise though, its making me worry if sever dmg is done.

98civdx

buying a used crank could be good, or bad, it may be good because they are cheep, it may be bad, cause you dont know if its good or not.

id just buy a new block, throw you head on, with new gaskets, timing belt, water, oil pump.

Integra4lyfe069

so which engines r in the previous year?
92-95 si vtec?

d15z6?

also if buying a whole block ittl come assebmled right? i jus bolt it on to the the head

Hybrid96EK

Yeah. It sounds like in your case this might be the cheapest and quickest way to get things resolved. If you are going this route, then just try to find a good condition lower mileage Y8. You have to remember the Z6 is OBD1.. Its not going to have the crank position sensor that your Y8 needs and will throw a CEL as a result. Your better off in this case to find a Y8 shortblock and go from there. The reason I mentioned the Z6 crank is I thought you were doing a rebuild of the Y8. For time sake I would just find a Y8 shortblock at this point.

thumper64

The issue with the Y8 is that the engine has a weaker oil pump and fewere oil passages. This is what leads to spun bearings, a lack of oil.

Where are you located?

Hybrid96EK

The oil pump flows the same as the Z6 pump. People just like to assume its a cause for problem. The problem is in the crank solo, period.

Integra4lyfe069

ontario canada

brampton area

Integra4lyfe069

so im gonna goto scrap yards and start pricing shortblocks for the y8

which specific years should i tell them

96-00 honda civic si 78 shortblocks ?

any of these will fit ?

thing i like bout this idea is i will have a shortblock to work with on the side also ;p i can do your idea and build for boost.

Hybrid96EK

All of those years will work, yes.