erick_562

Hii i have a civic si 1.6 vtec it only turns over with starting fluid buht then shuts off suggestions ?

slowDB7

does the fuel pump turn on (do you hear a buzz) when you turn the key?
are you getting gas at all?
how do the spark plugs look?

erick_562

Yess i took off the gas line to the fuel rail and gas does come out and the spark plugs are new

teamXteg

clean and tight grounds?
any CEL?
timing correct?

jbpnoman

Just because gas comes out doesn't mean you aren't getting proper fuel pressure, and it also doesn't mean your injectors are firing. Get a fuel pressure testing kit (you can rent it from most major auto parts stores), and verify that you have ~36 PSI at the filter. If you are, remove your injectors and touch the pins to a 9V battery. You should hear and feel the injector open, similar to the feeling and sound of a relay.

Did you do any work to the car recently, or did this just suddenly happen?

TripleLude

Does the engine start at all anytime?.. like maybe when cold, but then shuts off after getting a bit of heat? If so, it will be the igniter. Test it with a OHM meter. They fail a lot on distributors with internal ignitors. You can replace it for under $100, or buy a new distributor for over $200.

Then again, maybe it does not ever start, cold or hot?.. If so, check for results from this list:

1. Spark. Use an extra spark plug grounded to bare metal of the engine. Turn over the engine and you should see a white spark (yellow, orange, or blue is bad ignition coil).

2. Compression. Remove all the spark plugs at once and test each cylinder with a compression tester. Each cylinder gets 5-7 seconds of cranking time with the throttle to the floor. Results should be within 10% of each other. Write down the compression from each cylinder. Like 176, 180, 179, 177... or 143, 139, 141, 139.

3. Fuel. Grab a metal or glass beaker, fire extinguisher, and disconnect the fuel line. When the ignition-key is turned on once, let the fuel line fill the beaker and measure how much fuel comes out. Compare that to the specs in the manual, maybe 3 oz or something.

4. Timing. Turn the crank counter-clockwise to TDC, exactly. Now check the cam gear(s) with the valve cover removed. The horizontal marks on the gears should line up with the head surface when the white TDC crank mark is aligned. Sometimes, you can have compression, fuel, and spark, but the timing might be off by 1 tooth and it will not start.

jbpnoman

That's a pointlessly dangerous way to test fuel flow, and it doesn't accurately tell you fuel pressure, which is what the factory service manual gives for specs.

JNocon

This kind of problem happened to me about a year and a half ago. First I thought it would be my fuel pump, but I heard it working. Then, I checked my main relay with a D.V.O.M. and it tested fine. So, I checked my distributor wirings, fuel injectors, and related ignition stuffs, but they were good. Man I was soooo frustrated, I fell asleep. Then the next day came, I thought to myself, maybe it's my FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. I removed and replaced it with an extra one that I had. Voila...it started and never had any more issues. Good luck, hope this helps

TripleLude

I've never had to buy a fuel system tester, yet. I've diagnosed several fuel pump issues using my above method with success. However, I've seen those gauges that just sit on the fuel filter. Are they any good or do folks install them for sex appeal?

I hear that's bad for your health.

I think the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is vacuum operated on this engine, right? If the FPR is bad, the diaphragm would have a vacuum leak. Get a MittyVac and suck on the FPR vacuum line, bring it to negative 12-14psi. It should hold that vacuum steady for at least 10 seconds. If the vacuum drops, the diaphragm in the FPR is shot and you need to replace.