1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
Hey Guys,
My name is Jonathan and I am a Mechanical/Electrical Engineer in Florida. I have had a 2007 Candyglory red Honda RC46 for the last seven years, which I have been building continuously and it is my pride and joy (hence the user name).
I recently acquired a 92 Civic SI and I am in the process of bringing it back to its former glory. It was your typical ricer Civic (failed attempt at making it a fast n furious car, then sat in a garage for the last 3 years), with corny bright red Rota GT3's, slammed to the ground on a blown out Skunk2 suspension, no AC Belt or power steering pump (probably had a B series swap in it at one time, but now has the original D16z6 in it again, but with an automatic 94 Integra ECU) and looks to have had zero maintenance done for the last 10 years.
There was no Transmission torque mount bracket attached to the transmission, both torque mounts were totally blown out and the driver side engine mount was torn. All the exterior signal light bulbs and headlight HID's were blown and turn signal housings were missing. The paint is faded, the rear quarter panels and wheel wells, and a spot on the roof in between the windshield and antenna have some rust. The balljoints, bushings and CV/axles need replacing. The exhaust looks basically factory except the rear muffler is almost dragging on the ground and the catalytic converter has been deleted, so it isn't too loud but has a ricey rattling sound to it. It smoked a lot at idle and especially after 4000 rpms. It leaks a lot of oil. 207,000 miles, I am assuming most of which have been on the original d16z6 engine.
So far I have:
Installed a new chipped P28 ECU (its amazing how much better the car runs with the correct computer lol), 95 Integra GSR throttle body (on a port matched D16z6 intake manifold), new oem spark plugs, oem fuel injectors have been rebuilt and balanced and a new fuel filter. The intake manifold and all sensors and controls attached to it have been taken apart, cleaned and reinstalled. I traded the corny hey look at me bright red rims and dry rotted allseason 205/45/16 rubber for some nice understated LS meshes with purpose sticky 195/50/15 summer BFG's mounted. The car handles much better with the smaller/lighter/stickier wheels and doesn't rub any more either . I have installed all new oem light bulbs and turn signal housings. I have removed and looped all power steering equipment/components and removed all underhood AC components. I have also installed all new Hasport 62a motor/transmission mounts and new filled oem torque mounts. I located and installed a new transmission torque mount bracket and an aluminum engine torque mount bracket (VX model AC bracket?). I have a Bisimoto gen2 header on the way and will be installing that soon with a custom 2.5 inch magnaflow exhaust (30 inch magnaflow resonator at the header collector and an oval magnaflow muffler at the end) This should have a nice sound to it, with out all the typical fart can rattle.
I changed the oil (heavier viscosity) and filter and cleaned out the PCV and black box which were 100% obstructed, in hopes of reducing the smoking. The exhaust now does not smoke at all unless under heavy throttle above 4 or 5 thousand RPMs, so I am assuming that the piston rings are worn out and maybe the cylinders have lost their cross hatching, I need to inspect this still and do a compression check. The engine does start up instantly and it feels pretty healthy. I still need to change out the axles, bushings/balljoints and order a set of BC Coilovers. The brakes actually feel really good still, but I will be bleeding them shortly. Amazingly the battery is still very strong even after sitting for years. The transmission was very rough, so I changed the transmission fluid and bled a whole bottle of fluid through the reservoir and lines and now it feels pretty good, but sometimes has a slight crunch going into reverse. I also need to touch up the interior door panels (fabric coming loose). I need to get the front windshield replaced and rust fixed, but I am not to worried about paint at the moment.
I have plans to rebuild the factory D16z6, but I am still thinking through how far I want to go in the engine build. I am pretty set on building the D and not b/h/k swapping it. For now I would be happy with a healthy non smoking/leaking 150-170 whp all motor D16, but I would eventually like to do a serious turbo build. I am thinking for the time being, Bisomoto Rods, arias 75.05mm 11.5:1 pistons, ARP Rod/crank/head studs/bolts and all new oem seals/bearings/headgasket on the motor and serious head port work, a Bisimoto level 3 cam with a full bisimoto springs/retainers/locks and maybe upgraded valves.
QUESTION:
WILL THE 75.05MM ARIAS PISTONS FIT IN THE FACTORY BORE WITH A LIGHT HONING OR WILL THIS REQUIRE MACHINING????
I am also considering a golden eagle intake manifold, 68mm throttle body and golden eagle or dart sleeves to handle future turbo duty. I see the way to go is 9.0:1 cp or arias pistons with a big turbo to shoot for the 500-700 whp range, but I was wondering if anyone has done something similar to 11.5:1 pistons and a big turbo (and supporting mods). I was thinking, with a thick head gasket, an aggressive camshaft to bleed off some dynamic compression, a lot of head work and valve deshrouding (to remove combustion chamber material and slightly lower static compression), if it would be possible to run a low boost pump gas tune and a medium boost e85 tune with those pistons, so I could build a great all motor car and sometime in the future go turbo, with minimal fiddling with internals. Just thinking out loud and I am looking forward to responses and advice on where to go from here.
PS Thanks for welcoming me aboard and I will try to get pictures up shortly.
My name is Jonathan and I am a Mechanical/Electrical Engineer in Florida. I have had a 2007 Candyglory red Honda RC46 for the last seven years, which I have been building continuously and it is my pride and joy (hence the user name).
I recently acquired a 92 Civic SI and I am in the process of bringing it back to its former glory. It was your typical ricer Civic (failed attempt at making it a fast n furious car, then sat in a garage for the last 3 years), with corny bright red Rota GT3's, slammed to the ground on a blown out Skunk2 suspension, no AC Belt or power steering pump (probably had a B series swap in it at one time, but now has the original D16z6 in it again, but with an automatic 94 Integra ECU) and looks to have had zero maintenance done for the last 10 years.
There was no Transmission torque mount bracket attached to the transmission, both torque mounts were totally blown out and the driver side engine mount was torn. All the exterior signal light bulbs and headlight HID's were blown and turn signal housings were missing. The paint is faded, the rear quarter panels and wheel wells, and a spot on the roof in between the windshield and antenna have some rust. The balljoints, bushings and CV/axles need replacing. The exhaust looks basically factory except the rear muffler is almost dragging on the ground and the catalytic converter has been deleted, so it isn't too loud but has a ricey rattling sound to it. It smoked a lot at idle and especially after 4000 rpms. It leaks a lot of oil. 207,000 miles, I am assuming most of which have been on the original d16z6 engine.
So far I have:
Installed a new chipped P28 ECU (its amazing how much better the car runs with the correct computer lol), 95 Integra GSR throttle body (on a port matched D16z6 intake manifold), new oem spark plugs, oem fuel injectors have been rebuilt and balanced and a new fuel filter. The intake manifold and all sensors and controls attached to it have been taken apart, cleaned and reinstalled. I traded the corny hey look at me bright red rims and dry rotted allseason 205/45/16 rubber for some nice understated LS meshes with purpose sticky 195/50/15 summer BFG's mounted. The car handles much better with the smaller/lighter/stickier wheels and doesn't rub any more either . I have installed all new oem light bulbs and turn signal housings. I have removed and looped all power steering equipment/components and removed all underhood AC components. I have also installed all new Hasport 62a motor/transmission mounts and new filled oem torque mounts. I located and installed a new transmission torque mount bracket and an aluminum engine torque mount bracket (VX model AC bracket?). I have a Bisimoto gen2 header on the way and will be installing that soon with a custom 2.5 inch magnaflow exhaust (30 inch magnaflow resonator at the header collector and an oval magnaflow muffler at the end) This should have a nice sound to it, with out all the typical fart can rattle.
I changed the oil (heavier viscosity) and filter and cleaned out the PCV and black box which were 100% obstructed, in hopes of reducing the smoking. The exhaust now does not smoke at all unless under heavy throttle above 4 or 5 thousand RPMs, so I am assuming that the piston rings are worn out and maybe the cylinders have lost their cross hatching, I need to inspect this still and do a compression check. The engine does start up instantly and it feels pretty healthy. I still need to change out the axles, bushings/balljoints and order a set of BC Coilovers. The brakes actually feel really good still, but I will be bleeding them shortly. Amazingly the battery is still very strong even after sitting for years. The transmission was very rough, so I changed the transmission fluid and bled a whole bottle of fluid through the reservoir and lines and now it feels pretty good, but sometimes has a slight crunch going into reverse. I also need to touch up the interior door panels (fabric coming loose). I need to get the front windshield replaced and rust fixed, but I am not to worried about paint at the moment.
I have plans to rebuild the factory D16z6, but I am still thinking through how far I want to go in the engine build. I am pretty set on building the D and not b/h/k swapping it. For now I would be happy with a healthy non smoking/leaking 150-170 whp all motor D16, but I would eventually like to do a serious turbo build. I am thinking for the time being, Bisomoto Rods, arias 75.05mm 11.5:1 pistons, ARP Rod/crank/head studs/bolts and all new oem seals/bearings/headgasket on the motor and serious head port work, a Bisimoto level 3 cam with a full bisimoto springs/retainers/locks and maybe upgraded valves.
QUESTION:
WILL THE 75.05MM ARIAS PISTONS FIT IN THE FACTORY BORE WITH A LIGHT HONING OR WILL THIS REQUIRE MACHINING????
I am also considering a golden eagle intake manifold, 68mm throttle body and golden eagle or dart sleeves to handle future turbo duty. I see the way to go is 9.0:1 cp or arias pistons with a big turbo to shoot for the 500-700 whp range, but I was wondering if anyone has done something similar to 11.5:1 pistons and a big turbo (and supporting mods). I was thinking, with a thick head gasket, an aggressive camshaft to bleed off some dynamic compression, a lot of head work and valve deshrouding (to remove combustion chamber material and slightly lower static compression), if it would be possible to run a low boost pump gas tune and a medium boost e85 tune with those pistons, so I could build a great all motor car and sometime in the future go turbo, with minimal fiddling with internals. Just thinking out loud and I am looking forward to responses and advice on where to go from here.
PS Thanks for welcoming me aboard and I will try to get pictures up shortly.
Last edited by CandyRedRC46; 07-26-2015 at 09:03 AM.
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
Thank you. Yeah I was a little worried about that, I will try to watch what info I put out there.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
Thanks for the kind words guys. The Bisimoto header just arrived today. This is what I plan on doing with the exhaust. The 4in round Magnaflow right after the header collector. Then the Magnaflow oval muffler at the end in the stock location. This shoud be pretty low key and have a nice sound to it.
Bisimoto 1st Gen V2 Header
Magnaflow Resonator
Magnaflow End Muffler
Bisimoto 1st Gen V2 Header
Magnaflow Resonator
Magnaflow End Muffler
Trending Topics
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
Yup my views exactly. I was contemplating selling the Rota's that were on there originally, but I think I will keep them as a just in case back up for now. This should make things more convenient in case I get a flat or something.
So on to the build, I just went for my first test drive on the Hasport motor mounts and filled lower torque mounts. What originally seemed like great deal, turned out to be a possible bad decision. I was told they were the 62a street compound, which is what I wanted, but the seller had the 3 bolt kit so I just purchased the rear and transmission side from him and a 62a motor side mount straight from Hasport. I installed the rear and transmission side mounts while I waited on the motor side mount to come in direct from Hasport. When I finally got my hands on the actual 62a mount direct from Hasport, it became very apparent that the other 2 supposed 62a mounts, were made of a very much harder compound than the confirmed 62a mount.
Starting the car for the first time was a shocking experience to say the least lol. They are on the extreme side of things and I don't know if I can daily them. You can literally feel the starter teeth engage on the the flywheel teeth and it hits you like a ton of bricks.
The transmission side was easy enough to install, but I am not really looking forward to changing the rear mount out for a second time. I am also not looking forward to paying for the passenger side and rear side again for a second time. I will probably just swap out the passenger side with a 62a direct from Hasport and see if the rear settles in somewhat, to a more tolerable level. Then I guess I'll list the harder, unknown compound, Hasport mounts on ebay and take a loss, or maybe hold on to them for possible future turbo duty.
Now on to the exhaust side of things. I am thinking of ordering a pre-bent mandrel bent pipe kit with a 18" magnaflow 4in resonator installed from these guys:
Car Exhaust - Honda - 92-95 Honda Civic - Mandrel Exhaust Systems
Then ordering the oval magnaflow end muffler, installing the header and driving to a local muffler shop and having everything welded up. Is anyone familiar with them? Seems like high quality stuff. I am kind of questioning the lack of 2/4 door/ hatchback options, but the muffler shop should be able to make up the difference, right?
Also I am going to need to pick up a header gasket and exhaust bolts/studs, you guys have any advice/recommendations?
AGAIN THANKS FOR THE KIND WORDS AND ADVICE
So on to the build, I just went for my first test drive on the Hasport motor mounts and filled lower torque mounts. What originally seemed like great deal, turned out to be a possible bad decision. I was told they were the 62a street compound, which is what I wanted, but the seller had the 3 bolt kit so I just purchased the rear and transmission side from him and a 62a motor side mount straight from Hasport. I installed the rear and transmission side mounts while I waited on the motor side mount to come in direct from Hasport. When I finally got my hands on the actual 62a mount direct from Hasport, it became very apparent that the other 2 supposed 62a mounts, were made of a very much harder compound than the confirmed 62a mount.
Starting the car for the first time was a shocking experience to say the least lol. They are on the extreme side of things and I don't know if I can daily them. You can literally feel the starter teeth engage on the the flywheel teeth and it hits you like a ton of bricks.
The transmission side was easy enough to install, but I am not really looking forward to changing the rear mount out for a second time. I am also not looking forward to paying for the passenger side and rear side again for a second time. I will probably just swap out the passenger side with a 62a direct from Hasport and see if the rear settles in somewhat, to a more tolerable level. Then I guess I'll list the harder, unknown compound, Hasport mounts on ebay and take a loss, or maybe hold on to them for possible future turbo duty.
Now on to the exhaust side of things. I am thinking of ordering a pre-bent mandrel bent pipe kit with a 18" magnaflow 4in resonator installed from these guys:
Car Exhaust - Honda - 92-95 Honda Civic - Mandrel Exhaust Systems
Then ordering the oval magnaflow end muffler, installing the header and driving to a local muffler shop and having everything welded up. Is anyone familiar with them? Seems like high quality stuff. I am kind of questioning the lack of 2/4 door/ hatchback options, but the muffler shop should be able to make up the difference, right?
Also I am going to need to pick up a header gasket and exhaust bolts/studs, you guys have any advice/recommendations?
AGAIN THANKS FOR THE KIND WORDS AND ADVICE
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
Okay I just ordered a full 2.5in mandrel bent piping kit
Also ordered an 18in long 2.5in diameter magnaflow resonator and 2.5in 5x8 oval magnaflow end muffler. I haven't ever heard a D series that sounded that great, but this should be about as good as it gets. I also picked up a header gasket and bolt kit, just in case a few exhaust studs back out (which I am sure at least two of them will lol).
I am going to pull the trigger on the Arias 75.05mm 11.5:1 pistons and Bisimoto rods
later on today.
p.s Does anyone want a Hasport Race compound tranny mount? I am going to swap mine out for a street compound and possibly leave the rear race mount alone.
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
This will go nicely with the header:
2.25 inch inner diameter collector.
2.36 inch inner diameter for the Down pipe/ Test pipe what ever you want to call it.
2.5 inch outer diameter will go very nicely with the 2.5 inch inner diameter mandrel bent piping kit and two, 2.5 inch magnaflow mufflers.
2.25 inch inner diameter collector.
2.36 inch inner diameter for the Down pipe/ Test pipe what ever you want to call it.
2.5 inch outer diameter will go very nicely with the 2.5 inch inner diameter mandrel bent piping kit and two, 2.5 inch magnaflow mufflers.
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
I am still waiting on the 2.5 inch mandrel bent piping kit and 4 inch round by 18 inch long, 2.5 inch magnaflow resonator. I am hoping that that stepped primary Bisimoto header, in conjunction with a stepped 2.25-2.36-2.5 inch exhaust should have great top end with out too significant of a loss in low end, due to the stepped diameter's anti-reversion characteristics and ability to let the exhaust gases expand and maintain a constant, ideal velocity.
Last edited by CandyRedRC46; 07-17-2015 at 02:44 PM.
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
While waiting on the rest of the exhaust parts I am going to do a little picture recap.
Throw back to how the car was when I got it. Corny wheels and all lol.
Here is the stock z6 intake manifold before I port matched it to the GSR throttle body.
Here you can see where I had to run a six inch bolt through the frame to the lower torque mont.
I had to break the lower torque mount off due to the broken weld on the inner frame nut.
Here you can see the new bolt I put in and the new nut and bolt I had to run through to the top of the frame.
Here you can see most of the ac removed. I would like to remove the heater core/evaporator/blower, but I honestly do not have the time and space to pull the dash at the moment. Also you can see where I ran the bolt through the frame to the lower toque mount.
One of the only things this car has going for it, a relatively clean interior. I just need to touch up the fabric on the doors.
Filling new OEM torque mounts with polyurethane.
Like usual, most of the studs removing instead of the nut off the stud....
This is hilarious. Look at the ECU that was originally hooked up. Apparently it is actually for a 94-95 automatic LS Integra
Here you can see the material that needed to be removed from the intake manifold to match the larger GSR throttle body.
Filled torque mount.
All power steering components removed, then looped.
Original OBD1 injectors, cleaned/rebuilt/balanced to like new.
I managed to find a like new, aluminum motor mount.
Miscellaneous AC/power steering/Cruise control parts that were removed to drop weight and clean up the engine bay, as well as allow use of the Bisimoto header.
lower torque mounts with new nuts and bolts.
Hole drilled through frame to mount the lower torque mount.
I had to break off the torque mounts and then cut the bolts off.
Dead weight
More studs backing out.
Transmission lower torque mount bracket. For some reason this wasn't even on the car when I got it. Apparently a lot of people think torque mounts aren't necessary... lol
New torque mounts before filling.
Old torque mounts and a newly purchased transmission, lower torque mount bracket.
Removed power steering lines.
Intake manifold after port matching.
New transmission torque mount bracket and bolts. Also the original heavy cast iron motor torque mount that I later replaced with a slightly lighter aluminum mount.
New bolts on the Hasport transmission mount, with of course, more new bolts....
New aluminum motor mount bracket.
Breaking the lower torque mount off.
Bolt for the lower torque mount installed.
Drilling the hole for a top bolt through to the lower torque mount.
Angle grinding the bolt off to remove the torque mounts.
Throw back to how the car was when I got it. Corny wheels and all lol.
Here is the stock z6 intake manifold before I port matched it to the GSR throttle body.
Here you can see where I had to run a six inch bolt through the frame to the lower torque mont.
I had to break the lower torque mount off due to the broken weld on the inner frame nut.
Here you can see the new bolt I put in and the new nut and bolt I had to run through to the top of the frame.
Here you can see most of the ac removed. I would like to remove the heater core/evaporator/blower, but I honestly do not have the time and space to pull the dash at the moment. Also you can see where I ran the bolt through the frame to the lower toque mount.
One of the only things this car has going for it, a relatively clean interior. I just need to touch up the fabric on the doors.
Filling new OEM torque mounts with polyurethane.
Like usual, most of the studs removing instead of the nut off the stud....
This is hilarious. Look at the ECU that was originally hooked up. Apparently it is actually for a 94-95 automatic LS Integra
Here you can see the material that needed to be removed from the intake manifold to match the larger GSR throttle body.
Filled torque mount.
All power steering components removed, then looped.
Original OBD1 injectors, cleaned/rebuilt/balanced to like new.
I managed to find a like new, aluminum motor mount.
Miscellaneous AC/power steering/Cruise control parts that were removed to drop weight and clean up the engine bay, as well as allow use of the Bisimoto header.
lower torque mounts with new nuts and bolts.
Hole drilled through frame to mount the lower torque mount.
I had to break off the torque mounts and then cut the bolts off.
Dead weight
More studs backing out.
Transmission lower torque mount bracket. For some reason this wasn't even on the car when I got it. Apparently a lot of people think torque mounts aren't necessary... lol
New torque mounts before filling.
Old torque mounts and a newly purchased transmission, lower torque mount bracket.
Removed power steering lines.
Intake manifold after port matching.
New transmission torque mount bracket and bolts. Also the original heavy cast iron motor torque mount that I later replaced with a slightly lighter aluminum mount.
New bolts on the Hasport transmission mount, with of course, more new bolts....
New aluminum motor mount bracket.
Breaking the lower torque mount off.
Bolt for the lower torque mount installed.
Drilling the hole for a top bolt through to the lower torque mount.
Angle grinding the bolt off to remove the torque mounts.
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
So what do you guys think about these Cusco door bars? Are they just JDM Bling Swag or do they actually make a noticeable difference in chassis rigidity? They came with the car, but if they are mainly just a jdm fan boy part, I would rather sell them, than install them.
#19
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Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
Nice build. I have a 92 Si (since 1996). My car is a track car only now but it was my only car for about 15 years. I got some OEM goodness for sale (if you're interested). Arm rest like new and integra rear LCA's, sway and hardware.
#20
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 1992 SI Hatch RestoMod
Thanks man. I pm'd you
Last edited by CandyRedRC46; 07-20-2015 at 01:30 PM.