1992 Honda Civic Shift Interlock Solenoid
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1992 Honda Civic Shift Interlock Solenoid
1992 Honda Civic EXV 1.6 litre 4-cyl VTEC Engine, Automatic Transmission, Air Bags (SRS)
Check Engine Light (CEL) always on.
Engine cranks but will not start.
Battery, fues under hood / dash, Main Relay, fuel, spark all good.
No 5v voltage at MAP sensor.
Suspect faulty ECU ???
When ignition ON, CEL is lit, there is intermittent clicking (energizing) at the Shift Lock solenoid located below and adjacent to the gear shift lever. This occurs whether in P or N.
Can any reader advise as to what might be causing the solenoid to activate even before the engine is started and the brake pedal pressed?
Thanks for your assistance,
Robert
Surrey, BC, Canada.
Check Engine Light (CEL) always on.
Engine cranks but will not start.
Battery, fues under hood / dash, Main Relay, fuel, spark all good.
No 5v voltage at MAP sensor.
Suspect faulty ECU ???
When ignition ON, CEL is lit, there is intermittent clicking (energizing) at the Shift Lock solenoid located below and adjacent to the gear shift lever. This occurs whether in P or N.
Can any reader advise as to what might be causing the solenoid to activate even before the engine is started and the brake pedal pressed?
Thanks for your assistance,
Robert
Surrey, BC, Canada.
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Re: 1992 Honda Civic Shift Interlock Solenoid (Kipper-Fish)
To further assist readers to help me, additional information here:
When ignition key is switched on, the Shift Lock solenoid at the A/T gear shift lever is still being intermittently activated, confirmed by sound and sight.
CEL remains lit.
New information is that when engine cranks, there in NO clicking at the fuel injectors and NO battery power at their terminals.
Are these related somehow? Does this confirm that an expensive ECU is dead or failing?
With much appreciation,
Robert
Surrey, BC, Canada.
When ignition key is switched on, the Shift Lock solenoid at the A/T gear shift lever is still being intermittently activated, confirmed by sound and sight.
CEL remains lit.
New information is that when engine cranks, there in NO clicking at the fuel injectors and NO battery power at their terminals.
Are these related somehow? Does this confirm that an expensive ECU is dead or failing?
With much appreciation,
Robert
Surrey, BC, Canada.
#3
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you write like a computer, but its very informative and easy to read. What cel are you throwing? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557
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Re: (Hanmin)
I can not locate a blue or grey 2-pin Service Check Connector. There is only a single 4-wire green, soft plastic connector under the dash, above the ECU on the passenger side.
I'm advised by dealership that this 1992 1.6L 4-cyl Civic EXV VTEC engine requires a "special tool" to activate diagnostic mode and extract error codes on a hand-held reader via this green connector. Is this correct?
Anyways, if the battery has been removed, recharged overnight and reconnected all without another successful engine start, would the ECU have had opportunity or time to generate and store new codes?
Robert
I'm advised by dealership that this 1992 1.6L 4-cyl Civic EXV VTEC engine requires a "special tool" to activate diagnostic mode and extract error codes on a hand-held reader via this green connector. Is this correct?
Anyways, if the battery has been removed, recharged overnight and reconnected all without another successful engine start, would the ECU have had opportunity or time to generate and store new codes?
Robert
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Re: (Kipper-Fish)
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
I can not locate a blue or grey 2-pin Service Check Connector. There is only a single 4-wire green, soft plastic connector under the dash, above the ECU on the passenger side.
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
I'm advised by dealership that this 1992 1.6L 4-cyl Civic EXV VTEC engine requires a "special tool" to activate diagnostic mode and extract error codes on a hand-held reader via this green connector. Is this correct?
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
Anyways, if the battery has been removed, recharged overnight and reconnected all without another successful engine start, would the ECU have had opportunity or time to generate and store new codes?
-Thermostat ground, located on the thermostat housing on the back of the engine, follow the lower radiator hose to where it meets the block to find it. If this ground is bad the car can exhibit the symptoms of a bad ECU.
-shift interlock relay, blue box bolted to the inside of the firewall where the clutch pedal would have gone if the car were a manual.
If neither of those helps you try another ECU, it needs to be an automatic P28 from any automatic '92 - '95 EX-V Sedan or a '93 - '95 Si coupe.
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Thanks for the photo of the green connector at the ECU.
I have just been down to the car and indeed, there are actually two(2) connectors INSIDE the green cover. I was able to remove the smaller two wire SCC a.k.a. jumper plug.
ECU ground previously checked and good.
Will now check for codes, check blue Interlock Relay before switching out ECU.
Thank you for a most useful post.
Cheers,
Robert
I have just been down to the car and indeed, there are actually two(2) connectors INSIDE the green cover. I was able to remove the smaller two wire SCC a.k.a. jumper plug.
ECU ground previously checked and good.
Will now check for codes, check blue Interlock Relay before switching out ECU.
Thank you for a most useful post.
Cheers,
Robert
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Re: (Kipper-Fish)
The problem of engine cranking and not starting has been solved with a replacement ECU . The engine started on first crank.
Removed the Gear Shift Position Indicator switch. The slider and it's contacts are well worn and very greasy. Cleaned with acetone, broke off the retaining lugs so face plate could press deeper into box and retained by zap-straps. The intermittent clicking of the Shift Lock solenoid has now stopped. All position indicator lights, including P, are working as normal.
The Shift Interlock system is now preventing the gear lever from being pulled out of P when engine running and brake pedal depressed. Both Key Lock and Shift Lock solenoids test good. Key Lock retains key when not in P. All fuses and grounds are good. Brake lights and switch are good.
How can I test the Shift Interlock Control under the dash?
(It's proving impossible to remove from its bracket. Any tips please?)
Thanks in advance for any additional assistance / advice offered.
Robert
Surrey, BC, Canada.
Removed the Gear Shift Position Indicator switch. The slider and it's contacts are well worn and very greasy. Cleaned with acetone, broke off the retaining lugs so face plate could press deeper into box and retained by zap-straps. The intermittent clicking of the Shift Lock solenoid has now stopped. All position indicator lights, including P, are working as normal.
The Shift Interlock system is now preventing the gear lever from being pulled out of P when engine running and brake pedal depressed. Both Key Lock and Shift Lock solenoids test good. Key Lock retains key when not in P. All fuses and grounds are good. Brake lights and switch are good.
How can I test the Shift Interlock Control under the dash?
(It's proving impossible to remove from its bracket. Any tips please?)
Thanks in advance for any additional assistance / advice offered.
Robert
Surrey, BC, Canada.
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Re: (Kipper-Fish)
Any possible chance the new ECU you got is from a manual civic? '92 - '95 civic automatic transmissions are controlled entirely through the ECU.
Modified by 94EG8 at 7:32 PM 11/14/2008
Modified by 94EG8 at 7:32 PM 11/14/2008
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Re: (94EG8)
A very good point bearing in mind that the Shift Lock solenoid was intermitently clicking away while the older faulty ECU was still in the car.
The part number on the previous ECU was as follows:
37820 - P28 - C50.
The replacement ECU has a hand written, permanent marker inscription as follows:
'92 CIVIC EX
i.e. no mention of whether it is for standard or automatic.
The part number on the replacement ECU is as follows:
33920 - P28 - C51
Is there a way to use this latter number to verify its suitability for an automatic transmission?
The part number on the previous ECU was as follows:
37820 - P28 - C50.
The replacement ECU has a hand written, permanent marker inscription as follows:
'92 CIVIC EX
i.e. no mention of whether it is for standard or automatic.
The part number on the replacement ECU is as follows:
33920 - P28 - C51
Is there a way to use this latter number to verify its suitability for an automatic transmission?
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Re: (Kipper-Fish)
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
The part number on the replacement ECU is as follows:
33920 - P28 - C51
Is there a way to use this latter number to verify its suitability for an automatic transmission?
33920 - P28 - C51
Is there a way to use this latter number to verify its suitability for an automatic transmission?
C -> Canada, ECU was designated for the canadian market
5 -> A 5, 7, or 9 generally designates an automatic ECU, a ) is typically used to designate a manual.
1 -> revision number
So in other words its the right ECU. You say you checked the brake light switch, is the rubber piece that actually pushes the switch still in place? and as another test, do you have brake lights when the brake pedal is depressed?
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Re: (94EG8)
Thank you for the breakdown and explanation of the last two ECU part numbers, especially the P28 - C51.
I then followed your lead and looked up the first part i.e. the prefix of the ECU part number and discovered that:
37820 is for Honda ECUs
33920 is for Suzuki ECUs
I find Suzuki ECUs listed with part numbers something like:
33920-XXXXX
I can not find a Suzuki ECU with a part number:
33920-P28-C51
This part number seems to be a hybrid of the two different manufacturers. Does this make any sense to you?
Yes, the brake switch is complete and the brake lights do work.
Looking forward to your reply with much appreciation.
Robert,
Surrey, BC, Canada.
I then followed your lead and looked up the first part i.e. the prefix of the ECU part number and discovered that:
37820 is for Honda ECUs
33920 is for Suzuki ECUs
I find Suzuki ECUs listed with part numbers something like:
33920-XXXXX
I can not find a Suzuki ECU with a part number:
33920-P28-C51
This part number seems to be a hybrid of the two different manufacturers. Does this make any sense to you?
Yes, the brake switch is complete and the brake lights do work.
Looking forward to your reply with much appreciation.
Robert,
Surrey, BC, Canada.
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Re: (Kipper-Fish)
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
This part number seems to be a hybrid of the two different manufacturers. Does this make any sense to you?
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
Removed the Gear Shift Position Indicator switch. The slider and it's contacts are well worn and very greasy.
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
How can I test the Shift Interlock Control under the dash?
(It's proving impossible to remove from its bracket. Any tips please?)
(It's proving impossible to remove from its bracket. Any tips please?)
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Re: (94EG8)
I have just inspected the actual side panel on the replacement ECU in the Civic.
I see with utter disbelief that the part number on the ECU sticker actually reads:
37820-P28-Cxx
764606401
The Cxx means that although the C can easily be seen, the last two digits have been deliberately scratched out. They can not be read.
No need to take a photo of this unless you would want to see the bar-code and that appears to be scratched out in places as well.
The part number for this ECU that I previously gave to you (and probabaly wasted a whole bunch of your time with) was being read off the seller's invoice to me and I repeat it here again for you:
33920-P28-C51
Clearly things are not as they are meant to be. I will inquire from the seller as to why his invoice is different from the actual ECU.
In the meantime, does the second number 764606401 tell us anything?
The car was driven all night without problem. Seems that, except for the Shift Lock issue, all is good.
Robert,
Surrey, BC, Canada.
I see with utter disbelief that the part number on the ECU sticker actually reads:
37820-P28-Cxx
764606401
The Cxx means that although the C can easily be seen, the last two digits have been deliberately scratched out. They can not be read.
No need to take a photo of this unless you would want to see the bar-code and that appears to be scratched out in places as well.
The part number for this ECU that I previously gave to you (and probabaly wasted a whole bunch of your time with) was being read off the seller's invoice to me and I repeat it here again for you:
33920-P28-C51
Clearly things are not as they are meant to be. I will inquire from the seller as to why his invoice is different from the actual ECU.
In the meantime, does the second number 764606401 tell us anything?
The car was driven all night without problem. Seems that, except for the Shift Lock issue, all is good.
Robert,
Surrey, BC, Canada.
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Re: (Kipper-Fish)
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
In the meantime, does the second number 764606401 tell us anything?
In terms of actually IDing the ECU, take a look at the pic below, if you take the cover off you should be able to tell if its automatic or manual (make sure you use a screwdriver that fits well in the screw heads holding the cover on as they are easy to strip.) Also if you look at the ECU plugs on the inside of the ECU there should be another sticker like the one on the outside of the ECU, I doubt anyone throught to scratch it out.
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Re: (94EG8)
Where do you get all this stuff? It's so very useful to a novice like myself.
I have removed the ECU from the car, opened it and inspected it as per your two suggestions.
1) There is in fact an unblemished, perfect sticker inside the unit and it reads:
37820-P28-C01
From this part number I deduct that this ECU is intended for the Canadian market, that it is intended for use with a manual / standard transmission and that it is Rev.1 As such, it is the incorrect ECU for my daughter's car.
2) By comparison with your photograph above, it is very evident that the two components inside the circle, as indicated by the pointed fingers, are not present. This further confirms that this particular ECU is intended for a 5-speed manual transmission. My daughter's car has an automatic transmission.
In this regard, I am still fortunate because the seller of this replacement ECU is a most decent man and I am sure that we'll be able to swop it for the correct unit. Perhaps he'll allow us to use this ECU until the correct replacement becomes available.
And you, Sir, are also a most decent man having provided me with valuable learning as I have trundled my way through the complexities of auto electronics. Thank you most sincerely for sharing with all of us forum members as you do.
Yours sincerely,
Robert
Surrey, BC, Canada.
I have removed the ECU from the car, opened it and inspected it as per your two suggestions.
1) There is in fact an unblemished, perfect sticker inside the unit and it reads:
37820-P28-C01
From this part number I deduct that this ECU is intended for the Canadian market, that it is intended for use with a manual / standard transmission and that it is Rev.1 As such, it is the incorrect ECU for my daughter's car.
2) By comparison with your photograph above, it is very evident that the two components inside the circle, as indicated by the pointed fingers, are not present. This further confirms that this particular ECU is intended for a 5-speed manual transmission. My daughter's car has an automatic transmission.
In this regard, I am still fortunate because the seller of this replacement ECU is a most decent man and I am sure that we'll be able to swop it for the correct unit. Perhaps he'll allow us to use this ECU until the correct replacement becomes available.
And you, Sir, are also a most decent man having provided me with valuable learning as I have trundled my way through the complexities of auto electronics. Thank you most sincerely for sharing with all of us forum members as you do.
Yours sincerely,
Robert
Surrey, BC, Canada.
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Re: (Kipper-Fish)
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
Where do you get all this stuff? It's so very useful to a novice like myself.
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
In this regard, I am still fortunate because the seller of this replacement ECU is a most decent man and I am sure that we'll be able to swop it for the correct unit. Perhaps he'll allow us to use this ECU until the correct replacement becomes available.
Originally Posted by Kipper-Fish
And you, Sir, are also a most decent man having provided me with valuable learning as I have trundled my way through the complexities of auto electronics. Thank you most sincerely for sharing with all of us forum members as you do.
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