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I have read through the threads and couldn't find an exact answer to what might be wrong.
I have a Honda Civic 2000, automatic transmission with a check engine light code of P0753. I saw that this was a shift solenoid. It looked like something I could replace, so I ordered a new one online and replaced it. As I was looking it over and deciding to replace it, I saw that I had an oil leak coming from the distributor O ring. It dripped right onto the solenoid and the connections, so I figured that could be the reason there was a problem. I looked up how to change the O ring, and ordered that at the same time and fixed the leak when I put on the new solenoid. I cleaned everything in that area, because it was a mess, even cleaned out the connectors. The tail off of the electrical harness I cleaned too. The engine light is still on, and I don't seem to have lower gears,
It runs ok at high speeds but I don't have any power at the lower speeds as I believe it is only running in 4th gear. I do have 2nd gear when I shift down into it. It seems to shift fine once it is warm, and you hardly notice a problem, except for the lack of power at the lower speed. It does shift hard out of park and into reverse when it is cold. Works fine when it is warm.
I also read that my fluid could be a problem, so I have cycled through 4 quarts of new ATF that I got from the Honda dealer. Old fluid was dark. The second time I drained the ATF there were no shavings on the magnet at the bottom, but there were a few the first time. This does not seem to have change the drive at all.
I also completely unplugged the solenoid. It drives the same without it. It does throw another code for solenoid B, but so far as the drive you wouldn't be able to tell.
I know that my solenoid is good, I checked it and it clicks. I also checked the connector and I know that it is working. I have tested the wires coming to the connector and they don't seem to be hot, but I am thinking that they are not hot until you are supposed to shift.
Is there anything else I can do? I have exhausted what I could find on the internet.
Thanks!
Ok, the only code that has ever come up is the P0753. The other code was only when the solenoid was completely unplugged. When I plug it in it is just P0753. I did find the service manual, it is pretty overwhelming at 2000 pages on the pdf file, so I haven't looked completely through it. I am looking at the pic you posted and that is what I was looking for was where the wire goes from the the solenoid. I have the glove box off, but it isn't that clear to me where the PCU is. Is it behind the glove box, or do I need to take some of the center dash off as well?
I had some fuel injector cleaner and used that to clean the connectors. They are very clean now, hopefully that is OK. I did that a few days ago.
Ok, cool, I got found the PCM and will run through the tests. Super weird but the wires are covered with oil here too. It must have wicked down the electrical harness.
Ok it is saying to repair the short betwee B20 B22 and ground G101. I have looked at all the pictures and can not find the G101. Also, going through the checklist, it occured to me that the D4 light has been out quite a while, a long time before the engine light came on. Is that related to my other problem, or does that change anything? I kind of figured the bulb went out and wasn't going to worry about it that much. Now I wonder.
G101 is the bundle of ground wires bolted to the thermostat housing. The B20 and B22 wires, which normally ground at G101, are probably broken, which is an open not a short.
The D4 light is a separate issue that you can fix after you clear the CEL code.
Ok, well last night I went back to the auto parts store and it is now throwing a code for a new solenoid. P1768. Does that mean anything in particular together with the other code? I can trouble shoot for that one separately, I just wondered if that means the PCM is fried or the transmission is just not working. Thanks so much for your help. It is very frustrating.
I don't know how to do that because I am using the meter they have at the auto parts store and those meters will not clear the codes. It has been the case that I have reset the computer by disconnecting the battery negative terminal, but the engine light comes on immediately, there is no driving needed. I don't even have to start the car, turning the key on turns on the check engine light and it stays on. I am going to see if I can figure out how to check the codes myself at home. I saw a video on it, but I need to look at it again to see where you make the connection on my car.
Ok, I tried getting the codes myself but it would only blink once. Anyway, I went and bought a reader.
I went ahead and rewired the solenoid A wire only. That code, the original P0753 is no longer showing up. I just did a temporary job, so I guess I will go ahead and do it properly, solder it and cover all the connections.
Instead I have 3 new codes. P1768, P1753, P1705. I am wondering if they are being caused by the open temporary wiring I did, so I will check it again when I get it all tidied up.
I did get one long single blink on the check engine when I tried to pull the codes on my own. According to the sticky, it would be a 10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor. I was just confused by that because all the other codes have had to do with the transmission. and I don't get any code like that with the code reader. Do you think there is an issue with the air temp sensor also, even when it doesn't come on the code reader?
Ok, I did the trouble shooting for P1753. The lock up control solenoid needs to be replaced, it is only clicking on one side. I am going to get that part and hoping that it will clear the other code, because it suggests just to "check electrical harness" which sounds a bit complicated. We'll see what happens. At least the original code is gone completely.
Both codes are still there. P1753 and P1705. I am not sure how to trouble shoot the P1705. Following the instructions in the manual, I really need the the Drive light to come on and it has been out. The next step is "Check the engine harness" I have looked all over the engine harness and have not found a place that is worn. It did, I think get some oil inside of it when I had the oil leak. The oil leak is fixed and I have gotten as much out as I can just by keeping the wires clean that are coming into the computer. (They were oily, and so were the contacts.) Now, though, everything seems to be clean, at least at both ends.
I did reset the code. First I pulled the fuse, and then I went ahead and took the negative off the battery, just in case I somehow wasn't removing the right fuse, or messing that up in some way. The same result, still have the P1753 and P1705 codes are still there. I have read a bit online and thought maybe I could take the shifter apart inside the car and see if maybe it has soda or some fluid on it. That might be a possibility. I haven't found a good tutorial yet on how to take it apart. It seems like you have to take the pieces around the emergency brake off first as the the other piece sits under it. I tried it once before and couldn't get it off.
I called the Honda dealership to see if I could buy just the light for the Drive on the the Shift indicator. He said that there is one light that lights up in the right place when it senses that you are in that gear. He said replacing that light isn't going to solve the issue because it isn't getting the signal when in drive, but it is getting the signal when it is in the other gears. I guess that means that I can continue on the troubleshooting, though that isn't one of the things listed as a possibility.
09-06-2016, 09:15 AM
00 Civic - auto transmission code P0753
