~Project~ '92 Civic D16Z6 goes AWD
07-12-2004, 06:14 PM
#26
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have tried and searched...i learned the JDM AWD civic trannys can't handle anything above 160whp. The driveshaft is to weak and would snap....as for a CR-V tranny good luck fitting it...and if you do better hope it is strong enough</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why don't you just use it and replace the drive shaft with a stronger one?
Why don't you just use it and replace the drive shaft with a stronger one?
07-12-2004, 07:00 PM
#28
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Re: (BatuKing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good luck. I doubt you can get any progress with $650 and FYI you will have to weld on pieces and parts and I hope you have a fab shop that will work for you for free. If you think about it the body is not designed for AWD so almost any civic will be off the ground by atleast 5" to clear the flat rear body. Not worth it at all. your going to spend at least a minumim of $8K on this job (unless you do the welding yourself and save $2K) but the hardest parts it to make sure the rear drive shafts are at the right angle, If your driving it on the freeway and your off by .020 you will get a bad balance and it could snap off.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Where the hell did you pull these figures from? So your telling me that a drive shaft has to remain at a "perfect" angle while going down the road and if it varies by 20 thousanths that it will vibrate and snap. Interesting considing bumps in the road will cause the shaft to vary a LOT more then this as is. You sure you know what your talking about?
Good luck. I doubt you can get any progress with $650 and FYI you will have to weld on pieces and parts and I hope you have a fab shop that will work for you for free. If you think about it the body is not designed for AWD so almost any civic will be off the ground by atleast 5" to clear the flat rear body. Not worth it at all. your going to spend at least a minumim of $8K on this job (unless you do the welding yourself and save $2K) but the hardest parts it to make sure the rear drive shafts are at the right angle, If your driving it on the freeway and your off by .020 you will get a bad balance and it could snap off.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Where the hell did you pull these figures from? So your telling me that a drive shaft has to remain at a "perfect" angle while going down the road and if it varies by 20 thousanths that it will vibrate and snap. Interesting considing bumps in the road will cause the shaft to vary a LOT more then this as is. You sure you know what your talking about?
07-12-2004, 08:38 PM
#29
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Re: (Hybrid93Eg)
lol.. $20 says this project goes NO WHERE...
do any of you guys knopw how to weld.. i mean this is more than ordering a header from ebay or installing your aem air intake..
if you do anything other than talk.
do any of you guys knopw how to weld.. i mean this is more than ordering a header from ebay or installing your aem air intake..
if you do anything other than talk.
09-24-2004, 03:03 PM
#31
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Re: (Evil_Wizard)
Back from the dead?! I've also been toying with the idea of going CRVTEC, all the way to the rear diff 
Basically, one plan is to get a CRV engine with 5spd/transfer case, driveshaft, front axles and rear hubs. Get a diff from any rwd car that can hold decent power and have custom rear axles made along with the shortened driveshaft. If you want to use the CRV rear diff (which might be alright) you can also use the rear subframe from it to attach the diff, otherwise you'll need something fabricated. Using the CRV rear end might be easier, but probably won't hold much power.
If you go with a side-dump exhaust, up front, and get rid of the fuel tank (use a cell in the trunk) you can use the exhaust tunnel for the driveshaft.
Doing one's own fabricating (as I would for the most part be doing) I think it can be done for under $2000, easy. $1000 with hookups amd scrounging. (minus vtec head and whatnot).
Another option is to get an older DSM drivetrain and make an adapter plate to attach their tranny (I know GVR4's have the tranny on the same side as us and the engine turns the same way!). This will be pretty bullet-proof, but they shift like **** and use cables, so some screwing around with the shifter would be in order.
Basically, one plan is to get a CRV engine with 5spd/transfer case, driveshaft, front axles and rear hubs. Get a diff from any rwd car that can hold decent power and have custom rear axles made along with the shortened driveshaft. If you want to use the CRV rear diff (which might be alright) you can also use the rear subframe from it to attach the diff, otherwise you'll need something fabricated. Using the CRV rear end might be easier, but probably won't hold much power.
If you go with a side-dump exhaust, up front, and get rid of the fuel tank (use a cell in the trunk) you can use the exhaust tunnel for the driveshaft.
Doing one's own fabricating (as I would for the most part be doing) I think it can be done for under $2000, easy. $1000 with hookups amd scrounging. (minus vtec head and whatnot).
Another option is to get an older DSM drivetrain and make an adapter plate to attach their tranny (I know GVR4's have the tranny on the same side as us and the engine turns the same way!). This will be pretty bullet-proof, but they shift like **** and use cables, so some screwing around with the shifter would be in order.
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