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Thanks again, Deschlong, for answering my questions and clarifying how to properly install the diode. I finally got around to wiring a few things up. Without your write-ups, I'm certain that I would not have been able to complete this retrofit!
Tacho needle isnt positioned correctly because i still need to calibrate it, so no worries And yes, the cluster and the needles really are that bright and evenly lit. It took some serious hours to achieve something like that.
I've got some great news... after a week of intensive research, these rare plugs are attainable. Wasn't easy, and you're going to be paying about $30+ for each plug, but if open door indicators are what you really want, it shouldn't be a problem. I also have some for sale, just pm me and shoot me offers.
6-Pin Connectors
These are used for Audio Auxilliary, Ipod, MP3, Navi, etc on most Hondas and Acuras years 97 and up. 6-pin plugs are nearly impossible to find on its own without being attached to a more expensive harness. The 6-pin connector is also known as C4 Auxuiliary Jack (AUX S GND):
If you can't find your own 6-pin connector, I've also located them on Del Sols (I'm assuming all years) They are on the cruise/hazard switch (I forgot which one but you'll see it because they are both together) It is a 6-pin plug using only 5 wires. You can add an additional wire to make it a 6 wire, 6 pin. I also found this same 5 wire 6-pin plug on preludes (94-96 but don't shun me for not getting the complete years as I only know EG/EK). I have no idea what item uses this plug, as someone at the junkyard completely pillage this vehicle, but I can tell you that it was around the dash and/or gauge area. If you cannot find any 6-pin connectors, contact me as I have some for sale.
7-Pin Connectors
These are easily found on newer model Hondas/Acuras 06 and up. Could be earlier years too but I am going to go with what I saw first hand. You can find them on harnesses from a Civic or CRV w/navi. They run about $60 and up. You can also search 97 and up Hondas/Acuras around the dash harnesses, I've read they are probably associated with the blower units. Again, I have these for sale too.
And finally, if you do not wish to pillage for these, or buy them from me, here is a DIY on how to create your own plug w/o having to hack your nice JDM plugs and ruining them.
Hi Deschlong it's been very long talking with you.
I need your help in my car's wiring. It has got an SIR white dial cluster with door ajar indicators. The car is equipped with a security alarm system. I have added an extra hood release switch. Since, inside the security system wiring there is no provision other than the 4 doors and the trunk release triggers, therefore the extra optional hood release switch (trigger) is wired with the driver door switch. It means if it is either the driver's door or the hood to get opened the security system will get a trigger signal through its built-in driver door's trigger wire and the alarm will sound.
Additionally I have also used the steering column covers of the 96-00 civic with a courtesy light.
All are working fine but the problem is if any door is opened excluding the driver's door, the driver's door indicator also turns on along with the courtesy light. However, with only driver's door opened all seems to work fine.
I don't want the driver's door ajar indication to turn on with any of the remaining three doors i.e., other than the driver's door and the steering column courtesy light as well. So what do u suggest? Do i need to insert a diode somewhere?
Regards
Last edited by shabbir.1; Aug 19, 2014 at 10:03 AM.
I will first remove the hood switch wire and then see how it behaves. If the error is removed I will try to insert a diode then.
Moreover the door ajar indicator lights do not turn on during the light test on IG1 with the battery indicator. The diode is already present on the PCB as it is an SIR cluster, so do I need to attach the pin 7 of the door ajar connector to the point after the diode (i.e., the cathode).
Today I connected the wht/blu wire from the pin 7 of door ajar connector with the alternator wire i.e., the wire coming out from the pin 5 of connector B of the cluster.
Now all the lights in the door ajar indicator lights up when the key is in position II (IG2). and stays on till the engine is started.
For the problem discussed above, I will use a diode(s) later on and will update here.
This may have been covered, but I couldn't find any information readily available. Was there ever black-faced 5th gen tachometer with a door open indicator that redlined at 8200? Or did this only come in the white face version?
I apologize if this has been answered. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I followed this steps. Unfortunately I can't manage to make it work properly. I need an alternative option where to attach the 6 or the ICU wire. Please refer with my photos here. Thankyou in advance
The blue wire attch from this photo connected it through the no1 wire or for the domelight This is for the two pin connector This is for the back of my ICU only 3 wires
Hi, I followed this steps. Unfortunately I can't manage to make it work properly. I need an alternative option where to attach the 6 or the ICU wire. Please refer with my photos here. Thankyou in advance
The blue wire attch from this photo connected it through the no1 wire or for the domelight
This is for the two pin connector
This is for the back of my ICU only 3 wires
It sounds like you do not have a key-in when door-open indicator as part of your ICU. Or for whatever reason, there is no reason for the dome light wire to pass through the ICU to the door-open switch on your driver door to connect to your ICU. Some markets were like this.
If that's the case, no problem. Just ignore the part of my diagram where it connects through the ICU. Splice your door-open wiring into the circuit the same way: You still need to interrupt the wire from the dome light, send it to the cluster indicators, then back out to the doors.
What colour is the wire that goes to the driver's side door-open switch?