Touch

iTrader: (1)

So a few weeks ago, i got a cel 43 (fuel supply system). checked everything from the pump to the injectors... decided it was probably the o2 sensor, so i changed it. the cell went away, but the car has been running pretty crappy.
I can still smell the fuel in the exhaust which makes me think the o2 will burn out again soon. Also vtec is not kicking in. i changed the fuel filter today and when i punched the motor after running the system for a while a puff of black wet soot shot all over my garage wall. it was like water with soot inside... need help. don't know what's wrong with the car.

I'm running a
92 EG
95 B18c1
SK2 intake mani
intake/header/exhaust
stock p72

Touch

iTrader: (1)

bump for help.

Touch

iTrader: (1)

damn what happened to this site... is it only good for pictures now and moving smileys? has honda-tech turned into myspace and i didn't get the memo...

the tech info used to come so quick and the site was so useful. the good ol days.

but seriously, enough of my bitching... i need help. anybody?

Touch

iTrader: (1)

up

pimpinblackcivic

when did you last change your plugs? also how new is the dizzy?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

If your car is running rich, find the source of it. A new fuel filter will only make it run richer. Not to say that replacing the fuel filter isn't a good idea...I'm just saying it wont make the car lean itself back out.

Check for leaky injectors, bad MAP readings, bad TPS setting. Remember OBD1 ECUs will only set a CEL for open circuits or short circuits. They dont have the logic that OBD2 ECUs have.

So for example: as long as the MAP reads some voltage, regardless if the voltage other sensors read as compared to the MAP, the ECU will not set a CEL since the MAP itself is still active. It doesn't nessacarily mean it's reading accurately. OBD1 does not check for accuracy as compared to other values.

Your MAP, ECT, TPS, IAT and O2 all control fuel curve together. The O2 sensor burned out because of something causing the engine to run too rich (you allready knew that).

Check your ECT to make sure it's not reading full cold or close to full cold all the time.


GSRs hit VTEC at around 4700 or so RPM. I can't really hear it when mine switches. I have the Skunk2 manifold as well. It makes it hard for you to hear VTEC. The old manifold had secondary air passages that opened at 6k. That's what most people hear. It's much more pronounced than VTEC switch over.

If you still dont think VTEC is actually operating, then maybe you have the VTEC plug switched for the CTS plug. It's a common mistake. The CTS plug and VTEC green plug are the same shape. It's just like the TPS/MAP switch up.

You should know where the VTEC solenoid is. The CTS is located in the head right by the lower coolant hose. There should be a black or gray plug running to it. If the plug running to the CTS is green, and the plug running to the VTEC sol. is gray or black, then you have them switched up.

This ofcourse, depends on who did the wiring. Most knowledgeable people will color code the plugs. Green for VTEC and a dark color for CTS.

Touch

iTrader: (1)

How do i check the ECT?

For the injectors, my plan was to let the car run for a min... hold it at WOT for a little while, then pull the plugs and see if they're wet.

I know the vtec crossover is slight, but up until i was throwing the CEL 43, I could feel it, and i never re-wired anything on the car. And thanks for the OBD1 info, i didn't know that they only threw codes for short or open circuts.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Touch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do i check the ECT?

For the injectors, my plan was to let the car run for a min... hold it at WOT for a little while, then pull the plugs and see if they're wet.

I know the vtec crossover is slight, but up until i was throwing the CEL 43, I could feel it, and i never re-wired anything on the car. And thanks for the OBD1 info, i didn't know that they only threw codes for short or open circuts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe that the ECT should read close to 5V when cold, and closer to 1V when warm. But then again, it might work the other way lol. Look up specs in a haynes manual. It's as simple as voltage testing after that.

VTEC needs:
Speed
CTS warm
RPM
VTEC wiring and hardware/software in correct working order (duh)
Oil press.
TPS


Since your car is running rich AND not crossing over into VTEC, I'm guessing it's a CTS problem. The CTS has a responsibility for both these areas.

Touch

iTrader: (1)

by CTS you mean the the Coolant Temperature Sensor, which is the ETC right?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Touch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by CTS you mean the the Coolant Temperature Sensor, which is the ETC right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. Coolant Temp Sensor. ECT, CTS, same deal.

Touch

iTrader: (1)

yup, somehow the plug was loose. i clicked it back on, then reset the ecu and as good as new, but i do need to get the car tuned. thx

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Touch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup, somehow the plug was loose. i clicked it back on, then reset the ecu and as good as new, but i do need to get the car tuned. thx </TD></TR></TABLE>

No you dont need to get it tuned. You can have it tuned for the sake of some of the mods....but at this point, it's probably a waste of time.

Enjoy the car.