**Help** Removing steering knuckle
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**Help** Removing steering knuckle
Ok I'm taking off my knuckle to bring to a shop to fix my wheel studs. And here's where I'm at so far. Pictures are labeled lol.
Another angle
last
The axle is disengaged. All brake lines are out of the way. Lower kotter pin + nut is off. Upper kotter pin + nut is off. Side kotter pin is out + nut (for trailing arm? maybe wrong)
I'd like to remove the knuckle, what do I do from here. I didn't want to fu(k around with it, but I think I need to remove the nuts with the question marks on them.
#3
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Re: **Help** Removing steering knuckle (^XpLiCiTxX^)
Seriously the diagrams are awesome.
the yellow marks indicate all you have to remove/loosen to remove the spindle.
The question mark areas are lower control arm bolts and have zero affect on the spindle itself being removed.
the yellow marks indicate all you have to remove/loosen to remove the spindle.
The question mark areas are lower control arm bolts and have zero affect on the spindle itself being removed.
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Re: **Help** Removing steering knuckle (solturbob16sol)
thats what she said
it wont come off though. i cant even shimmy it around, its still attached at the top [ref pic 1]. sO I cant move the knuckle up. and its the same thing in pic 2 at the very bottom. So I cant move it down either, lol am I missing something?
it wont come off though. i cant even shimmy it around, its still attached at the top [ref pic 1]. sO I cant move the knuckle up. and its the same thing in pic 2 at the very bottom. So I cant move it down either, lol am I missing something?
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Re: **Help** Removing steering knuckle (^XpLiCiTxX^)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^XpLiCiTxX^ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what she said
it wont come off though. i cant even shimmy it around, its still attached at the top [ref pic 1]. sO I cant move the knuckle up. and its the same thing in pic 2 at the very bottom. So I cant move it down either, lol am I missing something?</TD></TR></TABLE>You need to seperate the balljoint from the lower arm. There are a couple of ways to do this. A pickle fork will work but tear the boot. Some people have luck with beating on the side of the control arm with a big hammer and other try a different trick which involves sticking a ratchet in beteen the knuckle and arm and then beating the ratchet with a hammer. I have'nt had very good luck with the last two methods and always end up tearing the balljoint boots with my pickle fork.
it wont come off though. i cant even shimmy it around, its still attached at the top [ref pic 1]. sO I cant move the knuckle up. and its the same thing in pic 2 at the very bottom. So I cant move it down either, lol am I missing something?</TD></TR></TABLE>You need to seperate the balljoint from the lower arm. There are a couple of ways to do this. A pickle fork will work but tear the boot. Some people have luck with beating on the side of the control arm with a big hammer and other try a different trick which involves sticking a ratchet in beteen the knuckle and arm and then beating the ratchet with a hammer. I have'nt had very good luck with the last two methods and always end up tearing the balljoint boots with my pickle fork.
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Re: **Help** Removing steering knuckle (ILcrxsi1)
So, pic 3 - bottom red circle. Gotcha.
So you're suggesting that I beat the side of it with a hammer? sounds good. what part of it should I be striking?
So you're suggesting that I beat the side of it with a hammer? sounds good. what part of it should I be striking?
#7
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Re: **Help** Removing steering knuckle (^XpLiCiTxX^)
Oh damn I thought you already physically broke the balljoints loose from the lower control arm and upper control arm.
Yeah you must hit the LCA with a dead blow type hammer, not just a regular claw/househole hammer, to get the to bust apart from the lower balljoint.
Shitty blurry pic:
And see the shiny marks on the LCA from hitting it to bust the balljoint loose?
Some people use a "pickle fork" or a "balljoint separator tool" but they almost always tear the balljoint boot apart, thus causing more time/money to replace the balljoints.
If you hit it right it will pop apart.
Same goes for the upper.
Yeah you must hit the LCA with a dead blow type hammer, not just a regular claw/househole hammer, to get the to bust apart from the lower balljoint.
Shitty blurry pic:
And see the shiny marks on the LCA from hitting it to bust the balljoint loose?
Some people use a "pickle fork" or a "balljoint separator tool" but they almost always tear the balljoint boot apart, thus causing more time/money to replace the balljoints.
If you hit it right it will pop apart.
Same goes for the upper.
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#8
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Re: **Help** Removing steering knuckle (^XpLiCiTxX^)
BTW by the time I fished the pics out and posted someone beat me to the answer.
BTW take the castle nuts for each balljoint and turn them back on a few turns so that you don't damage the threads with the hammer if you accidentally hit the threads.
Ask me why I know to do this.
BTW take the castle nuts for each balljoint and turn them back on a few turns so that you don't damage the threads with the hammer if you accidentally hit the threads.
Ask me why I know to do this.
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Re: (^XpLiCiTxX^)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^XpLiCiTxX^ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, great help man.
ok ill be in the garage beating it off
hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>pics or it didn't happen
ok ill be in the garage beating it off
hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>pics or it didn't happen
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Re: (ILcrxsi1)
something that might help you out is to put a jack under the hub where the brake rotor used to be (where the studs are sticking out) Use a wood block or something to keep the jack from damaging the hub and jack up on the hub a bit to preload the balljoint so that it'll seperate easier when you whap it with the BFH.
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Re: (^XpLiCiTxX^)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^XpLiCiTxX^ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So I do have to remove that bolt I see... Ok, brb.</TD></TR></TABLE>You only need to remove that bolt if you are removing the axle.
So I do have to remove that bolt I see... Ok, brb.</TD></TR></TABLE>You only need to remove that bolt if you are removing the axle.
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Re: (^XpLiCiTxX^)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^XpLiCiTxX^ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I see.. so I should just pull the axle off the knuckle? I only have it off maybe an inch or so. </TD></TR></TABLE>Seperate the balljoint from the lower arm and seperate the upper balljoint from the top of the knuckle. These tings don't just fall off. They are tapered and squeeze together really tight. They need some motivation.
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Re: (^XpLiCiTxX^)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^XpLiCiTxX^ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So I do have to remove that bolt I see... Ok, brb.</TD></TR></TABLE>In this picture. The yellow circle all the way at the top and the yellow circle all the way at the bottom. These are what need to be seperated. You can't pull them apart with your bare hands.
So I do have to remove that bolt I see... Ok, brb.</TD></TR></TABLE>In this picture. The yellow circle all the way at the top and the yellow circle all the way at the bottom. These are what need to be seperated. You can't pull them apart with your bare hands.
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Re: (^XpLiCiTxX^)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^XpLiCiTxX^ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right, ive been hitting it with a dead blow hammer for a few minutes now and still it hasn't come loose.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Hit it more. Hit the [freak] out of it. Hit it like a passed out 16 year old girl in your bed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Hit it more. Hit the [freak] out of it. Hit it like a passed out 16 year old girl in your bed.
#19
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Re: (^XpLiCiTxX^)
No no no don't remove the bolt seen in my pics, I was removing CV axles in those pics, but they were the only ones I could illustrate where to hit the LCA.
Sorry for the confusion. Those pics are part of my CV axle removal/installation write-up.
Sorry for the confusion. Those pics are part of my CV axle removal/installation write-up.
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Re: (^XpLiCiTxX^)
you are hitting the lower control arm right? not the stud? i've smashed the LCAs to get them to break, as for the upper, hit the spindle ( piece your trying to remove)
to break it
to break it
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yea I'm hitting the right spot, I know that. Ive been smashing this fu(king thing for a while and I gave up for tonight.
is there a specific way to strike it? [upwards, sideways..ect]
is there a specific way to strike it? [upwards, sideways..ect]
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Re: (^XpLiCiTxX^)
hit it with the heaviest hammer you can get in that area without hitting other stuff by accident every time, and hit it as straight from the side as possible dead on, alternate between the part just above the rubber boot and just below it. It also helps to get someone to hang from a prybar wedged between these two areas while hitting it.
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Update***
Ok... so I finally broke the lower ball joint loose. I pryed it loose with a crowbar and hit it with the dead blow, opened her right up like most high school girls.
But here's the problem... I'm 95% positive I stripped the threading on the bolt at the very bottom of the knuckle.
What do I do?
Ok... so I finally broke the lower ball joint loose. I pryed it loose with a crowbar and hit it with the dead blow, opened her right up like most high school girls.
But here's the problem... I'm 95% positive I stripped the threading on the bolt at the very bottom of the knuckle.
What do I do?