jhonda239

Ok, so im going to turbo my 1997 civic ex. it has almost 143,000 miles on it.

so far i have:
tdo4h-13c(volvo turbo)
ebay cast manifold
ebay oil line kit
chipped p28(crome)
rfl BOV
intercooler(idk)
intercooler piping(idk)

so would you guys recomend me getting arp head studs or not. do i need them??? i would prefer not,because that would take more money and time, plus i would also buy a timing belt.

and also what does this turbo run stock? i've heard 5.5 psi and 7.5psi. so which one is it.

jhonda239

any1?

fireblaze2k1

I have been recommended getting the ARP headstuds for my low boost build up. Depending on your application, you could try without, but the studs would be added insurance against a floating head. I think it's a judgement call for you though.

jhonda239

im on a budget and dont wanna waste.

Joe Vtec

you deff should get head studs i mean yea its more money but think how much more money you would be spending if you happened to mess up your motor it deff worth doing you head studs and you should get like 440cc injectors that will help alot

^XpLiCiTxX^

buy them, you wont be disappointed

fireblaze2k1

There is that point between absolutely necessary and can make do without. You could make do without, but you don't get insurance because you're planning on gettin' into an accident. Anything worth doing is worth doing right the 1st time, not the 2nd, 3rd, etc, etc... I don't think you will be happy with low boost for too long. Save the time and money now by doing it right, so when you slap on a new turbo or up the boost your engine stays together.

koa

I promise you will need ARP headstuds for a d-series turbo build. For some reason they like to stretch. The hardest thing in a turbo build besides a tune is holding the headgasket together with oem headstuds. Everyone knows thats a bitch.

Schister66

For a tiny little turbo like that, you're not going to make enough power to lift the head. Having said that, i don't think they'd be a bad idea. I have a few friends who are making mid 200's on 100% bone stock D's...stock studs and all so it can be done.

robfrmny21

what boost levels will it be seeing daily?

trustdestruction

To be safe it would be very wise to use the ARPs. You can go without them, but you'd be taking a risk that most people would avoid by just spending the $100 on ARPs.

jhonda239

its not really the money, its the labor, im going to be working on my car all day doing the water pump, timing belt,head gasket and head studs. i know its all relevent, but damn, this is going to be a bitch.

also im going for 190hp-210hp. and i have 440cc injectors.will i need to use those for my hp goal???

trustdestruction

well if you get head lift you're gonna be spending more labor some day changing the head gasket. if labor is your concern then i'd get the ARPs because they can potentially save you a few hours of future work and the possible inconvenience of being stranded on the side of the road if your engine overheats.

I am shooting for ~220WHP on my D16Z6 turbo preject I am doing and i'm also going to be using 440cc injectors. I have been told that it would be in my best interest by someone who did a 202WHP turbo project on their D16Y8, and I am taking that advice because I want to make sure that my car is still reliable when it's turbo'd.

Oh, and you can install the ARP head studs ahead of time, and it doesn't take that long at all. You don't have to install them when you install the turbo kit. Just make sure you do it before you run it turbocharged if you want to ensure not having head lift.

kuja396

I've had problems using oem headbolts on a stock b turbo (with about 300 whp), those ARP's fixed the problem quite nicely. You dont have to get a new timing belt, and on d series engines you dont have to take the cams out to take the head on/off. Easy, 2-3 hours and your done.

fireblaze2k1

So it looks like everybody is in agreement. It's safer and time saving by getting it done now, but you could go stock if you want to. I would also suggest a 255 walbro fuel pump to go with the injectors.

^XpLiCiTxX^

X2

I have my y8 build steadily in progress right now. headstuds I feel are a must, and they only cost me $90 brand new in box from a local tuner shop. Xenocron, in NY. they are more for insurance purposes because you dont want to blow your head gasket and have to deal with changing and potentially taking hours to fix along with anything else you may or may not have messed up in that process. It's a sub $100 investment, just do it.

Schister66

If you have the money, just get the studs. For the little bit of money and time you'll invest into the ARPs, it's worth it. Just consider the amount of time and money it takes to replace the headgasket instead...

fireblaze2k1

Headgasket issue will definately make you mess with your timing among other things, but maybe you should get a cometic head gasket for ***** and giggles.

jhonda239

ok, so now im pretty set on the headstuds. but im not going over 7.5 psi so why do i need the 440cc injectors. that would be more work. if my stock injectors can keep up with my hp goal than why do it? and if i do than what else do i need to do that?

tr4c3

It's all just added insurance. DSM injectors and a resistor box aren't that much. Yes it's a more work now, but would you rather do that extra work now, or have to do it later just incase something happens. You never know, but it doesn't hurt to be prepared. You want to turbo it, and make sure it's reliable. The last thing you should do is cheap out.

fireblaze2k1

It's quick work if you can solder. Wouldn't take too long at all and looks nice if placed right.

Jimster480

get the studs. they are needed in D series blocks. The stock bolts suck.

trustdestruction

PSI doesn't determine HP, that is a common misconception.
PSI and turbo size, among other things, is what determines HP.

That being said, PSI doesn't determine the size of the injectors you need. HP does.

At 200WHP you should be using 440cc injectors. (actually a little less, but i'm pretty sure it jumps straight from something like 330cc to 440cc with nothing in between, and 330cc is too small.)

93egSLEEPER

not just d series, all hondas. i swapped for head studs on my old ef when i blew the headgasket just because its worth the added insurance, and its just how it should be done.

Davus

I myself couldn't even find OEM head studs anywhere on the Internet. Maybe I didn't look hard enough, but I figure some day I'll be lifting the head off again anyway, and do not want to bother getting new OEM head studs again. 96 shipped from Lightning Motorsport (H-T sponsor) and a few minutes of time, and head lift is something I will never have to worry about.

This is in a stock, naturally aspirated, D16Y8 M/T. I would not do anything else without these, which you seem to have already decided on.