MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

Been looking at getting into Hondas for a while now, finally found a car that I liked. I got a 1997 Honda Civic DX with a blown motor for $200. It has a massive hole in the block.











Here are the pictures from Cragislist. It isn't in the best shape, has rust on the rear quarters and a bit of faded clear coat, but for the price it seemed OK. Interior is clean as well, odometer reads around 220k miles. Had a hard time getting it home because the rear brakes were locked, but once we got them unlocked it was smooth sailing. This is the first time I've ever done anything like this so I researched what kind of motor I wanted. I decided on a D16y8 instead of the D16y7. I ended up finding one on a Facebook group about 2.5hr away from me. He had a D16y8 head and block for $150 so I made the drive to pick it up. Guy said it had 150k miles on it but who knows

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

Here is the motor after being cleaned up a bit and installing the head, gasket, studs, and timing belt.



It had a VMS block guard preinstalled as well.

I've never pulled an engine before so it took a while to finally get the old one out. Most stuff seemed pretty basic, what gave me the most problems was the axle nuts. Snapped a few 1/2 breaker bars, my air impact or electric impact wasn't working. After tons of PB and heat I eventually got it off with a newly purchased 3/4" breaker bar and 32mm socket from harbor freight with a 5ft cheater bar. I had to jump up and down on the cheater bar a few times and they eventually both popped right off. Got the bitch pin out pretty easily, just used a screwdriver and hammer.





Took me a while to get the transmission off because I forgot a bolt, but eventually it came free. I'm trying to build this car as cheaply as possible so I was planning on leaving the clutch as-is and reusing everything but when I took it apart it didn't look to be in the best shape , it was OEM possibly the original clutch with 200+k on it








I ended up buying a cheap eBay clutch kit instead. I decided on an XTD Stage 4 clutch kit, $70 shipped on eBay. I know there are mixed reviews on them but this is a budget build so we'll see how it goes


Also acquired a few parts locally. I got a D6 intake, don't want to use the Y7 intake and unfortunately the engine didn't come with an intake.


I plan on doing a very basic, cheap turbo install as well. I ordered an Apexi VFAC from a member on here, and got a turbo and manifold from Craigslist. I know people don't using the VFAC as a way of engine management but it was cheap and should get the job done. I paid $80 from someone local and got a D series turbo manifold (very poorly welded I might add) and a small Garret turbocharger. The turbo has some shaft play so I am looking into getting it rebuilt, but I'm thinking now I should have just gone with an eBay turbo. Came with a FMIC as well which you can see below.











Got Felpro head gasket, oil pan gasket, intake, and exhaust from Rockauto all very cheap. Hopefully they hold up well. Got the TurboXS MBC locally for $20, might end up not using it. You can see in the background me prepping the engine lol putting some bling on it. Painted timing belt covers and lime green valve cover. Also found a cheap 12" dual ported sub box at a garage sale. Also found a nice Alpine deck for $5 and a Crunch 500 watt amp for $5. I ordered 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/HIFONICS-HFX1.../dp/B0057Z1UXE

should make for a very cheap decent system, read the reviews on the Hifonics subs and they seem to be all right, rated for 400rms each they'll be getting around 250 each so they should be Ok. Paid $7 for the box, $5 for the deck, $5 for the amp, and $60 for the subs should be an ok system for less than $100 including wiring and all.

I just ordered the clutch last night so that's where I am right now, just waiting on the clutch to arrive so I can get the car back together. I also ordered a P2P ecu since I am going from non-VTEC to VTEC. I will update as soon as the clutch kit comes in

chrysler kid

Awesome project ! Great to see you saving one from the crusher

oneheadlight

I'm in.. would like to see how you fix that rust on the rear quarter panels/wheel well. Glad to see another be saved as well!

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

for the midwest, that is light rust. it is still able to be ground out/prepped/fiberglassed.

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

No clue what I'm going to do yet. I've never done anything this in depth before, this is the first time i've ever pulled an engine, put in a clutch, put on a head gasket etc... Luckily I found a Haynes manual in the trunk so that and a lot of reading on this site have been helping. I've never done any kind of body work before so I'm not sure how it will turn out.

mk378

They all rust around the back wheels. A heavy use of Bondo will work for a year or two.

You do not have to remove the axle nuts to R#R engine. You can leave axles attached to the hubs, pull them out of the transmission by taking the lower ball joints off so the knuckles can swing out, then just let the axles hang down. This is assuming you will remove the engine / transmission from the top.

I would get the car running stock before starting to install turbo.

MastaFlyMason

iTrader: (1)

Lots of new parts in the mail. Vtec oil pressure and solenoid pigtails, ECU pins, new Vtec oil pressure switch (mine was broken at the end) and knock sensor that was broken as well. I got my clutch yesterday so I could get back to work. Clutch went on smoothly, got the transmission back on and the timing belt, valve cover, etc back on so the motor is almost ready to go. Last thing I'm doing before swapping it is putting the new oil pan gasket on but I need it to be on the engine hoist before hand.

I need suggestions for the next bit. I have 2 oil pans, one from my y7 and one that came on the y8. The one on the y8 was already tapped for an oil rdeturn. I bought this and have it mounted to the pan
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151570560554?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITI didn't trust the shitty eBay gasket so I used black RTV to hold it on. The problem is I am trying to get the car to run N/A before I put the turbocharger on from the suggestions posted here. What should I do to block this off? Or should I put the untapped one on first? Seems like a PITA to go swapping them out. I bought this inlet because the inlet is removable so my plan was to take it down to the hardware store and find a bolt that is the same threads, teflon tape the threads, and thread it in so I can use the car as-is without hooking up an oil cooler line. That sound like it should work OK?






First picture is the clutch and packaging straight from eBay, second is the clutch being installed, and the 3rd picture is the engine and trans all put together and ready to be dropped into the car.

That's as far as I got last night, I'll be working on the car tonight and all weekend, so hopefully I can get it running this weekend. I'm assuming I'll hit a few snags, I know I still need the pigtails for the knock sensor and maybe more but I'll get to that when it comes to it. Maybe check the local yard.

chrysler kid

You can just put a 3/8 hose cap or just plug a 3/8 hose for the return line fitting until you hook it up to the turbo

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

is the one that came on the y8 the original aluminum, or did they swap it for a steel one? my preference in a diy build for tapping an oil pan is steel, easier to get a good weld.