Civvy66

Hello - new Civic EX (4dr, auto) purchase as a starter car for a teen step-son. I am an experienced DIY mechanic, but no honda cars before (Not strictly true, I have an Acura SLX I've had a long time, but it's not really a Honda...).

It is clean with minimal exterior issues (two dings, not terrible, needs to be clayed and waxed, but not bad at all), and it has had a lot of proper maintenance done (suspension, head gasket, no leaks), etc. 182k miles.

The main thing I have to fix is that the key doesn't turn in the driver's door. The central locking works otherwise from the inside, though the driver's **** is balky. I am guessing a vacuum modulator in that door? Is there a common fix here/this is common?

The airbag light is on, but I read that's common from a belt sensor. The airbag recall is open, so I'll take it to the dealership for that.

It would not rev over 5k when I first drove it, but no codes. I topped up the oil (it was slightly low), and that fixed it. It is, however, really anemic over ~5k, but I am guessing that is the nature of the beast? No intent to actually drive it there, just being thorough to make sure everything is 100% to start.

How much fluid does the AT take on a drain/fill? I will do 2x to start to make sure it has good fluid - it looks ok, and clearly has been service at some point(s) - and then single drain fills on a conservative schedule after that.

Thanks for any advice or pointers what to search for the lock issue.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

I doubt its an EX, due to the fact it has no sunroof... unless that your car is a Canadian import. This would mean that the engine is not the VTEC model, and thus would feel like it has slightly less gusto at higher RPM's.

Vacuum modulators on door locks seems like a bit of a weird idea, but anyways... they're electric on this car and if you can't rotate a key in the door lock, either the tumbler is bad or needs repair.

New fill on the AT is 2.9 quarts. **Make sure to use Honda ATF-DW-1 fluid, as using aftermarket alternatives have proven to cause issues.

Civvy66

Yes, it's an LX. I thought "LX" was the top of the line trim, and I knew this wasn't, so I thought that made it EX because I thought that was the mid-line. Not familiar with all the terminology. I thought it went dx/ex/lx because that's logical. I didn't assume it had VTEC so wasn't alarmed at the top end. I fixed a neighbor's Accord with VTEC a year ago so I had to study it a little and test drove it, so knew it would feel differently if equipped and have codes if not operating.

Lots of cars used vaccum for locking, and the last time or two I had to work on a system, that's what they were. It may not be a common Japanese design method, but it's quite common elsewhere and not weird by any stretch.

And yes, I will use only DW-1. I have enough experience elsewhere to not vary from design fluid for ATs

hondandy

I did a thread on replacing the locks with ones from the junkyard. It's the newer style high security keys/locks, they go bad. At least do the trunk lock since it takes one minute to swap out, and you can get into the car if locked out. Just keep that extra key on your key ring. And be ready for the ignition switch lock to fail since it most likely is next to go. That or the passenger side door.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...p-way-3334578/

It should rev easily to red line. Sounds like the cat is clogged up.

The airbag light will pop up if someone took out a seat (airbags in the seat) then started the car. Try to reset the light using a paper clip. You can find youtube videos on resetting the abs light, maintenance light etc.

Civvy66

Thanks for your thoughts.

I was thinking of pulling the seat out myself. It rocks fore/aft annoyingly a bit and I thought I'd try to solve that. I read that is common on these. Maybe someone did that in the past and didn't reset it. Then I'll reset the airbag light and see what happens. The airbag recall is open on the car, so then I'll take it to the dealership for that.

Besides the lock cylinder not turning, the interior **** doesn't work the system correctly (passenger door does) and is stuck 1/2 up. I was thinking that implied a system issue, as it seemed to me the lock issue alone would not mess with the internal actuation. But hey, I don't know this system so Thurs. or Fri. when I have time, I'll take the door panel off and start diagnosing it. I"ll check your post and others I can find to guide me. I imagine if from the inside if I disconnect the op rod and any central system hardware attached to the cylinder, and it still won't turn, then I start there and then see what happens...

I had considered the cat could be clogged. Would a civic cat potentially clog at "only" 182k if no oil burning? Most cats I've experienced would not. Also, before we agreed to buy it, I looked at the cat and saw that it did not look hard to swap out - relative to so many others. So I was prepared to do that if/when it becomes necessary.

Again, thanks for the pointers as it helps me neck down problems and educate myself before I start disassembling things.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

There is a TSB for the driver's seat rocking, if my memory serves me right. You should be able to get that repaired for free.

If the tumbler is broken, the interior lock might not function as well, since it connects to the tumbler via rods. But, I would say pulling the door panel would be a good idea to see what's going on. They're rather easy to remove.

Since its an LX, you could even get the Magnaflow OEM replacement catalytic converter, which has been a more reliable replacement unit on the D17A1's.