Honda Civic (2001 - 2005) Coupe / Sedan / Hybrid (Includes Acura EL)

10w-40 to 5w-20

 
Old 02-16-2019, 02:21 PM
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Default 10w-40 to 5w-20

Honda Civic Ex 2004.
My Mechanic has been using Super Tech High Mileage 10W-40 for 2 years now.
Can i shift to a better oil, how about shifting from 10W-40 to 5W-20 synthetic or conventional?
Please advise.

Last edited by newcaruser; 02-16-2019 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Update
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Old 02-16-2019, 04:41 PM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by newcaruser View Post
Honda Civic Ex 2004.
My Mechanic has been using Super Tech High Mileage 10W-40 for 2 years now.
Can i shift to a better oil, how about shifting from 10W-40 to 5W-20 synthetic or conventional?
Please advise.
I have to say it, your mechanic is an idiot. There, with that out of the way, the correct oil for your car is 5W-20, conventional or synthetic (it matters not unless you extend your oil changes). Also, if you're going to go synthetic, go for 0W-20, it is a superior oil compared to 5W-20 in literally every metric.
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Old 02-16-2019, 04:55 PM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Thank you for your inputs.
My concern now is, how risky is it to migrate from Super Tech High Mileage 10W-40 to any other oil, including 0W-20? or would it be safer to hang on to Super Tech High Mileage 10W-40 for now, considering that I drive less than 100 miles each month at present.
Also, what would have been the affect of using Super Tech High Mileage 10W-40 for the past two years?
Thank you,
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Old 02-16-2019, 05:36 PM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

The sooner you switch the better; no need to over think things.
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Old 02-16-2019, 06:42 PM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Not over thinking, trying to understand better.
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:23 PM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by newcaruser View Post
Also, what would have been the affect of using Super Tech High Mileage 10W-40 for the past two years?
Thank you,
This is more of a topic to be investigated over at BITOG.
Depends on a few things, where you are, how you drive, how long do you drive, etc etc.
If you drive infrequently and when you do it is very short trips that don't allow the engine to fully warm up and the oil to cook off any water or contaminants in the oil then the oil itself will break down faster. Heavy loading of the engine, hard acceleration, lost of stop and go, short trips, or lots of mountainous driving will also be severe on the engine and its lubrication.A vehicle cruising on the freeway all day doing 70MPH at part throttle has the easy life.

If the car is driven severely, then I would suggest using 0W-30. It is usually only found in full synthetic, this will give your engine a greater protection range while maintaining a good MPG base.

A common stop-gap is to go to a slightly thicker weight oil for use. This is in an attempt to keep oil viscosity high, aiming at protection of the moving parts. Problem isadding a thicker 'cheap' oil is not really the way to go.
A 5W-30 oil would have been adequate if you were looking for some added measure of protection. 40 in place of 20 is a but much, especially if you are in a colder climate. As shipo pointed out 5W-20 or a quality synthetic 0W20 would work fine for your application.
Too thick of oil, especially in a colder climate, can do as much damage as too thin or old of an oil. If the viscosity is too high it would be like trying to pump gear oil(molasses) through your cold engine. No oil flow, no protection, or worse it is causing the over pressure relief valve on the oil pump to open and recirculate oil into the pump rather than pumping oil into the engine. Thick oil can give a false sense of security, the pressure values may read good with a gauge but without flow and coverage there is a lack of protection.

At worst when the engine is cold it will not have oil flowing sufficiently throughout the engine.(wear)
At best, when the engine is fully warmed up and you are driving around town, your engine is wasting power(decreasing MPG) by pushing too thick of oil throughout the engine rather than simply operating.

The only disadvantage you may note if you go to 20 weight oil is the engine may seem to be louder. This is because the 40 weight oil was so thick it muffled internal engine sounds. However you may note that the engine revs much freer and your economy may improve, sometimes shockingly.

Rather curious as to why you agreed to the heavier oil.

Only times to use such a thick oil(40), legitimately, is if the engine us under severe use and heat. Illegitimately, you are attempting to fix or cover up an engine sound.
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Old 02-17-2019, 02:50 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by MAD_MIKE View Post
This is more of a topic to be investigated over at BITOG.
Depends on a few things, where you are, how you drive, how long do you drive, etc etc.
If you drive infrequently and when you do it is very short trips that don't allow the engine to fully warm up and the oil to cook off any water or contaminants in the oil then the oil itself will break down faster. Heavy loading of the engine, hard acceleration, lost of stop and go, short trips, or lots of mountainous driving will also be severe on the engine and its lubrication.A vehicle cruising on the freeway all day doing 70MPH at part throttle has the easy life.

If the car is driven severely, then I would suggest using 0W-30. It is usually only found in full synthetic, this will give your engine a greater protection range while maintaining a good MPG base.

A common stop-gap is to go to a slightly thicker weight oil for use. This is in an attempt to keep oil viscosity high, aiming at protection of the moving parts. Problem isadding a thicker 'cheap' oil is not really the way to go.
A 5W-30 oil would have been adequate if you were looking for some added measure of protection. 40 in place of 20 is a but much, especially if you are in a colder climate. As shipo pointed out 5W-20 or a quality synthetic 0W20 would work fine for your application.
Too thick of oil, especially in a colder climate, can do as much damage as too thin or old of an oil. If the viscosity is too high it would be like trying to pump gear oil(molasses) through your cold engine. No oil flow, no protection, or worse it is causing the over pressure relief valve on the oil pump to open and recirculate oil into the pump rather than pumping oil into the engine. Thick oil can give a false sense of security, the pressure values may read good with a gauge but without flow and coverage there is a lack of protection.

At worst when the engine is cold it will not have oil flowing sufficiently throughout the engine.(wear)
At best, when the engine is fully warmed up and you are driving around town, your engine is wasting power(decreasing MPG) by pushing too thick of oil throughout the engine rather than simply operating.

The only disadvantage you may note if you go to 20 weight oil is the engine may seem to be louder. This is because the 40 weight oil was so thick it muffled internal engine sounds. However you may note that the engine revs much freer and your economy may improve, sometimes shockingly.

Rather curious as to why you agreed to the heavier oil.

Only times to use such a thick oil(40), legitimately, is if the engine us under severe use and heat. Illegitimately, you are attempting to fix or cover up an engine sound.
Thank you for the elaborate and detailed information.
Assuming I am going for 5W-20 High Mileage on 2004 Civic with over 150k miles, would Fram or Purator oil filter work or do you recommend only Honda oil filter?
Do you recommend sticking to the same Brand of High Mileage each time or would it be ok to switch brands in future, in the high mileage category?
Appreciate your guidance very much, Thank you.
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:28 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Once again, you're over thinking it. It will not matter one iota whether you go to 0W-20 or 5W-20, conventional, semi-synthetic, or synthetic, regarding the filter, once again, it won't matter; use any filter made for your car.
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Old 02-18-2019, 10:19 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by newcaruser View Post
would Fram or Purator oil filter work or do you recommend only Honda oil filter?
Unless Fram has gone back to making a quality filter(doubtful) then I would not use them.
Honda filters are fine.
Purolator I *think* can be hit or miss some of their filters are good some are not so good.
If you are really concerned, check out BITOG.
Originally Posted by newcaruser View Post
Do you recommend sticking to the same Brand of High Mileage each time or would it be ok to switch brands in future, in the high mileage category?
Appreciate your guidance very much, Thank you.
As long as it is a quality brand oil.
I haven't done much recent research, I just stick to Mobil 1 oil and filters, and just look for the best deals.
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Old 02-18-2019, 10:33 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Thank you for your sensible suggestions MAD_MIKE, appreciate your time and expertise.
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Old 02-18-2019, 12:15 PM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by MAD_MIKE View Post
Unless Fram has gone back to making a quality filter(doubtful) then I would not use them.
Honda filters are fine.
Purolator I *think* can be hit or miss some of their filters are good some are not so good.
If you are really concerned, check out BITOG.

As long as it is a quality brand oil.
I haven't done much recent research, I just stick to Mobil 1 oil and filters, and just look for the best deals.
A few points on Fram:
  • I am not, nor have I ever been a fan of Fram filters
  • Fram branded filters have always been available in budget variety and numerous high end varieties which are the match of any manufacturer
  • Have you ever seen a single shred of evidence which shows low end Fram filters provide sub-standard filtration?
  • Just because the low end Fram filters use inexpensive materials does not in any way mean they are unfit for folks who do 3,000 miles oil changes and such.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:00 PM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by shipo View Post
A few points on Fram:
  • I am not, nor have I ever been a fan of Fram filters
  • Fram branded filters have always been available in budget variety and numerous high end varieties which are the match of any manufacturer
  • Have you ever seen a single shred of evidence which shows low end Fram filters provide sub-standard filtration?
  • Just because the low end Fram filters use inexpensive materials does not in any way mean they are unfit for folks who do 3,000 miles oil changes and such.
  • We partially agree. I used to use FRAM, but when they were bought and sold their filter quality took a hit, so I stopped using them
  • They used to have the standard filter and a 'race' filter, these were fine. When the various 'guard' series came out the filters became lousy. This was around Y2K, when all the 'teflon additives' were around.
  • Have I busted out the electron-microscope, no. Have I had filters fail in a few various ways, yes. I do cut open my filters, with the appropriate tool, and have examined them for particles and examined the internal components. I was shocked at the sloppy and cheap build quality. Was having oil pressure issues at cold startup, the check valve inside a few filters was non functional.
  • Even if I change my filters at 3K miles, I'm still not going to try and save $5 on a critical component that can cost me $1000 if it fails.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:18 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Just so we're on the same page, I am not a fan of the low end Fram filters and will not use one on any car, that said, I have yet to see any evidence from any source which says they don't filter properly. Turning the page, I do in fact use Fram filters; their ToughGuard (synthetic blend media) and Ultra Synthetic (dual layer synthetic media) offerings are competitive with the best filters on the market in their respective price classes.
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Old 03-30-2019, 05:41 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by MAD_MIKE View Post
This is more of a topic to be investigated over at BITOG.
Depends on a few things, where you are, how you drive, how long do you drive, etc etc.
If you drive infrequently and when you do it is very short trips that don't allow the engine to fully warm up and the oil to cook off any water or contaminants in the oil then the oil itself will break down faster. Heavy loading of the engine, hard acceleration, lost of stop and go, short trips, or lots of mountainous driving will also be severe on the engine and its lubrication.A vehicle cruising on the freeway all day doing 70MPH at part throttle has the easy life.

If the car is driven severely, then I would suggest using 0W-30. It is usually only found in full synthetic, this will give your engine a greater protection range while maintaining a good MPG base.

A common stop-gap is to go to a slightly thicker weight oil for use. This is in an attempt to keep oil viscosity high, aiming at protection of the moving parts. Problem isadding a thicker 'cheap' oil is not really the way to go.
A 5W-30 oil would have been adequate if you were looking for some added measure of protection. 40 in place of 20 is a but much, especially if you are in a colder climate. As shipo pointed out 5W-20 or a quality synthetic 0W20 would work fine for your application.
Too thick of oil, especially in a colder climate, can do as much damage as too thin or old of an oil. If the viscosity is too high it would be like trying to pump gear oil(molasses) through your cold engine. No oil flow, no protection, or worse it is causing the over pressure relief valve on the oil pump to open and recirculate oil into the pump rather than pumping oil into the engine. Thick oil can give a false sense of security, the pressure values may read good with a gauge but without flow and coverage there is a lack of protection.

At worst when the engine is cold it will not have oil flowing sufficiently throughout the engine.(wear)
At best, when the engine is fully warmed up and you are driving around town, your engine is wasting power(decreasing MPG) by pushing too thick of oil throughout the engine rather than simply operating.

The only disadvantage you may note if you go to 20 weight oil is the engine may seem to be louder. This is because the 40 weight oil was so thick it muffled internal engine sounds. However you may note that the engine revs much freer and your economy may improve, sometimes shockingly.

Rather curious as to why you agreed to the heavier oil.

Only times to use such a thick oil(40), legitimately, is if the engine us under severe use and heat. Illegitimately, you are attempting to fix or cover up an engine sound.

Hi Mad Mike,
Civic 2004
My PS Fluid goes down too often, empties in about a month or two.
I noticed fluid dripping from the bottom part of the PS Pump, do you know why it could happen?
Any inputs would be appreciated.
Thank you
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Old 03-30-2019, 06:12 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

There is a leak in your power steering system.
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Old 03-30-2019, 06:17 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Thank you!
What is the fix to it or is there any way out without having to replace anything?
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Old 03-30-2019, 11:03 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by newcaruser View Post
Thank you!
What is the fix to it or is there any way out without having to replace anything?
It all depends upon what is leaking and what caused the leak. It could be a hose, the pump, or the rack; your next step is to figure out where it is leaking from.
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Old 03-31-2019, 05:10 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

I do not think anybody should be calling the original mechanic an idiot. The poster specified his car has high mileage, and he lives in California. Its not like he faces super cold weather and needs a zero or 5 winter oil rating. As for hot weather driving the 10w40 will give him more protection at high temps, and better lubricate the engine. A 0-20 oil will be more likely to leak and to be consumed by the engine. If the car is running fine stay with what you have or at least discuss with your mechanic why he thinks it's beneficial to use a 10w-40 in your car.
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:06 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by MQAcuraEL View Post
I do not think anybody should be calling the original mechanic an idiot. The poster specified his car has high mileage, and he lives in California. Its not like he faces super cold weather and needs a zero or 5 winter oil rating. As for hot weather driving the 10w40 will give him more protection at high temps, and better lubricate the engine. A 0-20 oil will be more likely to leak and to be consumed by the engine. If the car is running fine stay with what you have or at least discuss with your mechanic why he thinks it's beneficial to use a 10w-40 in your car.
I'm still calling the original mechanic an idiot; there is nothing good which can come from using 10W-40 in an engine designed to run 5W-20.
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Old 04-01-2019, 03:30 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Again we know nothing about the shape of the car other than a mechanic suggested a switch to a high mileage formulation 2 years ago. If it was to limit leaks, going with a 0w20 will probably create a gusher. It may be that the poster did not want to spend having his engine torn down and gaskets replaced. 10w40 is not that thick especially in conditions above freezing, and a quick search reveals other civics have been run using it without ill effect. I am just pointing out that high mileage formulations have a purpose, and while they won't put off the inevitable they can help prolong the use of an engine. Sure his gas mileage will go up a tiny bit compared to a 0w20, but I think that is the only benefit of the thinner weight. Maybe if he really wants to try a different oil viscosity-- go with a synthetic 5w30 high mileage formulation?
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Old 04-01-2019, 04:54 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by MQAcuraEL View Post
Again we know nothing about the shape of the car other than a mechanic suggested a switch to a high mileage formulation 2 years ago. If it was to limit leaks, going with a 0w20 will probably create a gusher. It may be that the poster did not want to spend having his engine torn down and gaskets replaced. 10w40 is not that thick especially in conditions above freezing, and a quick search reveals other civics have been run using it without ill effect. I am just pointing out that high mileage formulations have a purpose, and while they won't put off the inevitable they can help prolong the use of an engine. Sure his gas mileage will go up a tiny bit compared to a 0w20, but I think that is the only benefit of the thinner weight. Maybe if he really wants to try a different oil viscosity-- go with a synthetic 5w30 high mileage formulation?
Clearly you do not understand how viscosity works, if an engine has a gusher of a leak with 0W-20, it will have just as big of a gusher of a leak with 10W-40. Fact of life.
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Old 04-01-2019, 05:53 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Not another oil thread!
Switch back to OEM 5W20 (says so right on the oil cap and owner's manual) and switch mechanics.
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Old 04-01-2019, 06:04 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

''higher-mileage oils also have somewhat higher viscosities. (Even if the numbers on the container don't indicate it, there's a fairly wide range for each viscosity rating and the higher-mileage oils sit at the top of each range.) They also may have more viscosity-index improvers in them. The result? They seal piston-to-cylinder clearances better and won't squeeze out as readily from the larger engine bearing clearances. They also may have a higher dose of antiwear additives to try to slow the wear process.''
https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...s-my-car-take/

Neither of us knows the condition of the engine or why the mechanic originally changed the oil type. In general, you are correct, but there are circumstances that would warrant the change. The car is fifteen years old and has seemingly been running fine for the past two years. So why mess with what has been working for him?
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Old 04-02-2019, 01:02 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20

Originally Posted by MQAcuraEL View Post
''higher-mileage oils also have somewhat higher viscosities. (Even if the numbers on the container don't indicate it, there's a fairly wide range for each viscosity rating and the higher-mileage oils sit at the top of each range.) They also may have more viscosity-index improvers in them. The result? They seal piston-to-cylinder clearances better and won't squeeze out as readily from the larger engine bearing clearances. They also may have a higher dose of antiwear additives to try to slow the wear process.''
https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...s-my-car-take/

Neither of us knows the condition of the engine or why the mechanic originally changed the oil type. In general, you are correct, but there are circumstances that would warrant the change. The car is fifteen years old and has seemingly been running fine for the past two years. So why mess with what has been working for him?
Ive been using 10w30 initially then 10w40 after the 10th year or so, never had a problem. Both were recommended by honda. The honda owners manual even recommends them!

So yeah depends where you live, no winter here so no cold start issues.

Cheers
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Old 04-02-2019, 10:54 AM
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Default Re: 10w-40 to 5w-20



My Owner's Manual states 5W-20 - see attached.
Got a shot of your Owner's Manual that says otherwise?
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