Tweakmeister

We're having a *hid install party* over here, and we can't figure out why the system isn't working.

Ballasts are wired up and are working (they provided quite a jolt to fellow member "misfit" )

I think the bulbs are busted.

JDM CTR EK

are those H4 bulbs? Post a pic of them workin' once you get done and the GRADE of the HID's. I wanna see. Sorry I can't help.

Tweakmeister

haha will do man

I think they're "blown" I know HID have a gas arc so I can't just test them on the multimeter.

Like what is that milky looking stuff in the bulb?
edit\\\ Milky looking stuff is fine according to the other pics I've seen.


This leaves...connectivity issue?

skafia

If it gave you a shock then the connection is good.

Did you replace your fuses to 20A?

Tweakmeister

would they not still work (and maybe blow the current fuse)?

skafia

If you didn't replace with 20A fuses and turned the system on, they would blow the stock fuses and not work. Replace them and your headlights would work, I promise.

Tweakmeister

this is how they're wired up now (and not working).

Tweakmeister

alrighty >> I'll test the factory headlight bulbs again to see if the fuse is blown.

thanks man...I'll keep you posted

ebelp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM CTR EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are those H4 bulbs? Post a pic of them workin' once you get done and the GRADE of the HID's. I wanna see. Sorry I can't help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They look like 9006 bulbs to me. Did you put that ring adapter on yourself? The bulbs look good to me...can't really tell anything by the pics.

Denny

i think that white milky substance is silicon

TnEG2

h.i.d... wetbacks call it HID.. like G.S.R. they say GGGSSSRRR!

Tweakmeister

yes, we did the 9006 retrofit.

no fuses are blown and we still can't get it to work.

Josh is going to drive home for now...I still can't figure it out

Understeer

Hmm, is this normal? (I circled it)

Misfit

I think that is just a shield... meaning its just to protect that wire going across. so long as the wire isn't broke it should be ok. I could be wrong though

Tweakmeister

yeah the crack is fine, but thank you

we will go ahead and replace those 10 amp fuses with some 20's (even if they aren't blown). We're thinking the system just needs the 20 amp capacity to perform.

skafia

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah the crack is fine, but thank you

we will go ahead and replace those 10 amp fuses with some 20's (even if they aren't blown). We're thinking the system just needs the 20 amp capacity to perform. </TD></TR></TABLE>

THAT'S WHAT I WAS TELLING YOU ALL AFTERNOON

Sorry for the caps + bold

COMplex.

hmm.. maybe you can help me with my problem.

when i turn on the HIDs:
driver side turns on
passenger side flickers for half a second then goes right off.

i have 20 or 25A fuses, can't remember fully, but do you think it could be a ground of the passenger side?? i thought i made it good enough.

hopefully its not a sign of a blown ballast or bulb.

i mean, it comes on for less than an instant and just turns off, so i'm guessing its not the bulb. most likely not the ballast. er.. i dunno. HELP please.

NUTWEAVE

i just got my HIDs put in a couple days ago.

i think i know what your problem is...

you have "reverse polarity"...that's what my problem was. i hooked everything up correct and they didn't work.

there is a plug coming from your stock halogen bulbs...it's white. it has 2 prongs inside of it and a clip on top.

now you normally plug that into the plug on the wiring harness that connects it to the ballast. the correct way to plug it in will make them "clip" together, making you THINK you plugged it in right.

well, if you have "reverse polarity" you are not doing it right. flip the connector upside down and push it in ALL THE WAY, until you feel a click. then try it, it should work. make sure you plug it in all the way though. reverse polarity happens to random cars. both of my lights needed to be plugged in oppositely while some will work with the setup they give you.

Mario

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR882 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think that white milky substance is silicon </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah, it's normal. The residue is the salt halide particles, an essential part of any hid xenon bulb.

ek9vboi

i had a problem just like you guys, but it was the fuse after all. with the 10 amp fuse, you need to turn on the motor so that it doesn't blow the fuse. withg the 20 amp you can turn it on without the motor on without a problem. right now i have 25 amp fuses in place of the 10 amp fuses. rarely does the bulb burn out, but it does. i highly doubt that this is the case and the ballast blown...highly doubted, unless you bought this kit used. if i were you check the fuses!!!

magnetic1

The fuse thing is NOT the issue. If they aren't blown, you don't need a higher amperage fuse. The whole point of a fuse is to protect the system in case of high current. If a 10Amp fuse is not blown, then running a 20A fuse does nothing.

The crack, while not normal, will not be the casue of the system not working. Even if the wire was indeed cut somehow, ONE side would still work.

The milky substance is normal. It is just the gas/salts inside the HID capsule.

I would check on the reverse polarity as mentioned a couple posts above. That is most likely the issue.

Also... glued bases =

Tweakmeister

the glued bases we did ourselves. honestly I think they're fine (with the high-grade 30year silicone I used...stuff is bombproof ).

You can see I cut the bases to make it snap over like it looks like it should go. if you guys are saying the factory halogen clip should be on the opposite side of what should work then I will certainly try that.

I will post up tomorrow hopefully with what happens.

airon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NUTWEAVE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just got my HIDs put in a couple days ago.

i think i know what your problem is...

you have "reverse polarity"...that's what my problem was. i hooked everything up correct and they didn't work.

there is a plug coming from your stock halogen bulbs...it's white. it has 2 prongs inside of it and a clip on top.

now you normally plug that into the plug on the wiring harness that connects it to the ballast. the correct way to plug it in will make them "clip" together, making you THINK you plugged it in right.

well, if you have "reverse polarity" you are not doing it right. flip the connector upside down and push it in ALL THE WAY, until you feel a click. then try it, it should work. make sure you plug it in all the way though. reverse polarity happens to random cars. both of my lights needed to be plugged in oppositely while some will work with the setup they give you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
werd same thing happened to me on my integra 9006 install
unlike halogens, the hids and ballasts need the polarity's to be correct
you can check them by using a multi meter or juts by flipping the the connection

B20C5 Turbo

Just make sure that your battery voltage is above 11.0V. The balast will 'drop out' @10.5V.

magnetic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20C5 Turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just make sure that your battery voltage is above 11.0V. The balast will 'drop out' @10.5V.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is not true. The ballast's circuitry should allow for operating voltages to drop as low as 7.2V I believe on the LV-212