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If it's a daily and you don't have kids - just gut it and get it lighter she'll feel better. I always wanted one of those to daily around Puerto Rico. She looks good bro!
I am interested in getting some charcoal 6ULs, possibly with 205/50/r15 Continental Extremecontact Sports. I drive a bone stock 94 VX hatch with a bit stiffer springs(315f/170R), and the factory fender liners and ZERO camber being an economy car. My question would be, what size 6UL would fit with that 205 without fender rolling, etc? I would prefer the 15x8 +36 but don't want to run into problems. Obviously a lowered track car with more camber will have more outer clearance than my no camber economy car.
I am interested in getting some charcoal 6ULs, possibly with 205/50/r15 Continental Extremecontact Sports. I drive a bone stock 94 VX hatch with a bit stiffer springs(315f/170R), and the factory fender liners and ZERO camber being an economy car. My question would be, what size 6UL would fit with that 205 without fender rolling, etc? I would prefer the 15x8 +36 but don't want to run into problems. Obviously a lowered track car with more camber will have more outer clearance than my no camber economy car.
Since 949 is finally re-releasing their 15x7.5 wheels again, I'd say that is the 100% guaranteed safe bet. The Conti ECS runs a wee bit narrow for its size anyway, so I don't feel the need to match it with an 8" wide wheel.
I'm running a 205/50/15 Conti ECS on a 15x7.5 Konig Hypergram right now, and the wheels and tires are a perfect match for each other.
You definitely want to dial some camber into your car though. Makes such a huge difference even if you were to only go from 0° to -1°.
Since 949 is finally re-releasing their 15x7.5 wheels again, I'd say that is the 100% guaranteed safe bet. The Conti ECS runs a wee bit narrow for its size anyway, so I don't feel the need to match it with an 8" wide wheel.
I'm running a 205/50/15 Conti ECS on a 15x7.5 Konig Hypergram right now, and the wheels and tires are a perfect match for each other.
You definitely want to dial some camber into your car though. Makes such a huge difference even if you were to only go from 0° to -1°.
Their section width is 8.4" so they could really tolerate a 8.5" wheel for maximum grip. I just know that won't fit for my needs. Being a daily driver economy car, the extra bit of camber would be nice for curvy roads, but I mainly only want the tires and extra contact patch for safety due accelerating/braking performance, so I would prefer to keep the camber around 0. The 175/70/13 all seasons just don't cut it in an accident scenario as I recently found out the hard way. Thank you for your input though as it definitely guides me in the right direction.
Their section width is 8.4" so they could really tolerate a 8.5" wheel for maximum grip. I just know that won't fit for my needs. Being a daily driver economy car, the extra bit of camber would be nice for curvy roads, but I mainly only want the tires and extra contact patch for safety due accelerating/braking performance, so I would prefer to keep the camber around 0. The 175/70/13 all seasons just don't cut it in an accident scenario as I recently found out the hard way.
Actually even though the tire section width is 8.4", the ideal rim width is from 5.5" to 7.5". The tire section width is supposed to be wider than the rim, and if you measure a rim the width dimension is to the inside of the lip. So the overall rim outside dimension will be close to 1" wider than it's marketed width.
Matching a rim width to the section width of a tire will actually give you a slightly stretched look.
Their section width is 8.4" so they could really tolerate a 8.5" wheel for maximum grip. I just know that won't fit for my needs. Being a daily driver economy car, the extra bit of camber would be nice for curvy roads, but I mainly only want the tires and extra contact patch for safety due accelerating/braking performance, so I would prefer to keep the camber around 0. The 175/70/13 all seasons just don't cut it in an accident scenario as I recently found out the hard way. Thank you for your input though as it definitely guides me in the right direction.
Sorry to see the accident. In that particular case, I'd hardly think camber would make a noticeable difference. The tire itself, however, would make a world of difference. From my own experience, it is surprising to see how much of a performance drop a tire will see when it is brand new, versus say, even just a mere 2 years of regular day-to-day use. Esp when it is wet out, the difference is phenomenal.
I hope I don't sound like a know-it-all old fart, but I would also say that I have not been able to notice any discernable difference in acceleration / braking performance by going from a near 0° camber to -1°-ish negative camber. Lateral grip, however, will go up very noticeably.
Actually even though the tire section width is 8.4", the ideal rim width is from 5.5" to 7.5". The tire section width is supposed to be wider than the rim, and if you measure a rim the width dimension is to the inside of the lip. So the overall rim outside dimension will be close to 1" wider than it's marketed width.
Matching a rim width to the section width of a tire will actually give you a slightly stretched look.
SLIGHTLY stretched provides extra grip though. You deflect (more like relax) the sidewalls, which makes the shoulders contact the pavement, more importantly it increases the volume of the tire, and allows you to run lower pressures on track to further expand the contact patch. With all that said, this is a daily driver and not one of my track cars, so I will be running high pressures for lower rolling resistance anyways.
Sorry to see the accident. In that particular case, I'd hardly think camber would make a noticeable difference. The tire itself, however, would make a world of difference. From my own experience, it is surprising to see how much of a performance drop a tire will see when it is brand new, versus say, even just a mere 2 years of regular day-to-day use. Esp when it is wet out, the difference is phenomenal.
I hope I don't sound like a know-it-all old fart, but I would also say that I have not been able to notice any discernable difference in acceleration / braking performance by going from a near 0° camber to -1°-ish negative camber. Lateral grip, however, will go up very noticeably.
thanks I agree. It has a slight amount of a drop, so it has a smidge of camber as I don't have adjustable camber adjustment up front as it's all OEM. I typically run with NASA and also travel around with the SCCA and other sanctioning bodies, so I deal with the traction issue all the time, but being a DD with factory-ish alignment it's kind of trial and error. I already knew the 175s weren't going to cut it, but I just lived with it, until this accident happened....
Thanks man. Yeah 205/50 Direzzas Ziii’s. I had Zii Star Specs on before and they were a fantastic tire. I got surprisingly good mileage out of them too.
Those wheels look tough on your EG. I've moved on and purchased something else when I found them not available and a used set was not they way I wanted to go. Glad to know they are considering getting back into the golden era 4x100 game.
09-14-2017, 10:20 AM
Re: 6UL wheels by 949racing.com, lets see em!
