JAD

I have gotten to the next electrical problem on this car. The power windows. Driver side works, passenger does not. The master switch and the right door switch do not operate the window. No sounds no movement. The fuse is good. I am assuming that there is only one relay involved for both windows? The master switch is jacked up severely. Both Switches are broke from under the buttons to the housing pivot. The drivers button still functions ok with a little careful pushing. The Passenger button feels better as far as it moving the slider inside the circuit board. I am a little apprehensive to just use a non metallic tool to move that slider. Its hard to tell how far it moves.

I have a 4 door switch. Same year, just a 4 button switch. The wiring connector is identical, same number of pins in the same configuration. The biggest problem about getting a new or used (never liked used electrical parts) is the PRICE. The 4 door, which I have, is like 50- bucks around the web, the 2 door 150+ bucks?!!! Supply and demand? 2 buttons vs 4 and the 4 is cheaper? lol... anyway is there any thing other than the keyless entry being a problem with this swap? The way it looks is that the pins for the rear windows are not used in the 2 door switch. I am a little apprehensive to just plug it in. Has anybody done this? If anything I would like to use this switch (4 door) to rule out or determine if the master switch is the only problem. I have checked the voltage @ the Passenger window motor and switch, and I have no voltage. I can hear the relay click for the drivers side but no sound when the passenger switch is engaged on either door.

Any ideas other than the switch swap as to what else is in the circuit?

The guy that had this car before was a maniac. Spicing wires all over, even in the drivers door there were snap on electrical connectors on the window switch wiring. The splices were present but just terminated 3 inches from the connector. Checked that the wires were not cut through and they were fine. SMH... drives me nutz when people do weird things and I have to figure out what it was they were trying to attempt.

Thanks for your interest again, the first help I received from you folks directed me in the right direction and found the headlight low beam problem, which I would have totally forgotten about as the daylight sensor was covered with one of those dash topper things and I never would have thought that that sensor had failed.

Does anybody have a pinout for the 2 door master switch? I have not been able to determine if I have voltage out from that pinout to right side window. That would be another way for me to rule out or determine that the master switch is the culprit. thanks again

JAD

I had another thought about this situation. If it turns out to be something other than the master switch, and the guts are good and just the buttons are the problem, what if i take the button housing from the 4 button, remove the two rear buttons from it and just use the two front buttons and plug them into the circuit board housing? With a little modifying i think it would work. I just cant bring myself to buy a 150 dollar switch. Its crazy, and I like a challenge. Re-engineering the switch sounds like fun, and ultimately I have nothing to lose if I fail. Can't use the sedan switch, the coup switch is jacked up, worse case I have to bite the bullet and fork out the cash. I do have quite a bit of cash tied up in this beast, overall the hundy and fiddy isn't all that much in the long run, but I do have more important,> fun things I could spend 150 bucks on.

JAD

ok, now that it is out i see that they are a much different size. so swapping anything is not possible... I was looking forward to some customizing.

I could still use the pinout diagram for the coupe master switch.

No one in the used parts realm has this 2 door switch around here (soCal, inland empire). Sigh, there goes my end of summer bbq and spending yet another C-note on this car.

Ok the switch thing is over. Found one on eBay, locally for 50$. Just the switches and remote receiver no bezel which I don't need.
I would appreciate the pinout schematic if anyone has it. I need to trace the Passenger wiring to the door.
Is the master wired inline with the single power window right hand switch?
IOW the master must be connected to the circuit before power is fed to the passengers door switch?
Can I just swap out the receiver for keyless entry and not have to reprogram it?
Also on the question of relays... is there a relay for 'each' door or one for both doors?
Sorry about the rambling earlier... I was experiencing sleep deprivation I think..

JAD

I have done my do diligence to find a solution to this questing in your FAQ. IMO its a waste of time as 90% of them are dead threads with no conclusion. Either the OP never returned or the question was ignored. This dating back to 2002,. So you're going to keep getting the "Another power window problem" titled threads until someone gets to the conclusion. I will be back until I get to the 'fix' and will post it. with or without' your help. I find it difficult to believe that no one has a schematic of the wiring circuit of the power windows on the 03 to 07 accords. Its possible but not probable. If its the fact that you paid for yours so everybody should buy the manual? well that's a valid point, but then the 'need' for this forum as a 'tech' forum would be reduced to a buying and selling gossip page. No?

Anyway I digress, I have received the new master switch (purchased simply because the buttons were broke from the housing, it functioned). The master always operated the drivers window and made the passenger switch 'relay (click). The motor was good in the passenger door. However the regulator cable winding was jammed and would not function. I received the new regulator. Verified its functionality before installing it. HOWEVER these parts did NOT fix the problem. I still only get a 'click' from the passenger windows switch. Window does not move. Without the afore mentioned diagrams I have figured out this circuit is in series and both switches need to be installed when checking continuity. As far as the relay goes, in my experience with other applications of relays. if they click they are working. Most times. Without a schematic of the PCB of the passenger switch I cannot go probing the circuit without fear of more damage. It has been my experience that people will apply more pressure for a longer duration on a switch, in the hopes that something will go faster and/or fix a problem. Kind of like shouting at a deaf person or someone who doesn't speak the language you are speaking. That being said, someone could have applied that scenario to this switch and burned it out.

Questions:
Is it a common problem of these switches to go bad?. (I find the circuit unnecessarily overly complicated overall)
Is there another fused circuit in line other than the under dash fuse block? Under hood?
Does this 'reset' procedure i have read about, fix only remote entry problems?
Does The jumping Pin 1 to pin 3 'fix' apply to this problem? I can only figure (again without the diagrams) that this fixes a 'grounding' problem with the master switch.

JAD

As you can see from the diagrams below AND the picture of MY connector to the master, the wiring is NOT the same... There are supposed to be two black wires occupying the #1 and #2 terminals. Both should be grounds and have 1_0 volts at all times. This is not the case... have any of you seen this arrangement on a 2003 2dr coupe? obviously I can't continue until I find out WTF is going on here.

tech8

The circuit wiring is slightly different for 03-04 models. For an 03-04, terminal no. 2 wire is light green, the wire receives the ground from the driver's door multiplex; whereas in an 05, the ground comes directly from G501/G601.

For 03-04, and 05, terminal no. 1 is wire is black, and that wire receives ground directly from ground G601.

For the front passenger window to work, it need to receives voltage coming via the power window relay (a relay is basically a type of switch). The power window relay is a normally-open type relay. If the door multiplex control unit sends a ground signal via the Wht/Grn wire to the power window relay, the relay will close, which allow voltage to fuse no 26 for the front passenger power window.

The driver’s door window switch does not receive voltage through that power window relay.

JAD

Ok whew//// alright so the relay is only for the passenger door... and the wiring is as it should be. When I jumped the wht/green(term #3) to body ground. I heard the relay click Under hood i think,. , but still only got a clicking sound from the small relay in the passenger door switch when the button is depressed on the master. I checked voltage at the motor during this clicking. No voltage to motor. Could this simply be the passenger switch...? Since I do not have the history of what this lame brain did before, I think I will just start with new parts and then at least I know where to begin.
Things that I know:
the reg and motor are good:
I have power to the passenger switch
(but am not sure of the amount of voltage, It may be weak and unable to power the motor/or that relay within the switch. I have the diagrams now so I will be able to check that tomorrow.
The master switch has tested good in another car (except for the 'auto' function. I will tackle that reset later)
Fuses are good
The wiring has been tampered with. I have found 4 quick connectors 2-on the wiring at the master and 2-behind the glove box terminal connection to passenger door.
They terminate with cut wires a few inches long. The original wires are ok though.
I don't know WTF he was doing, but he was WAY off on which wires he was tampering with if it was this same problem. smh
He also put in a nav system in, and i am debating on taking it out, I have GPS signal lost warning all the time and this guy is a clown, for all I know he tapped the window circuit to power the GPS.lol
Thanks for the post... I realize the title is going to throw people off. I was going to repost but I will continue here.

tech8

The power window relay is located in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If the relay clicks when you ground the Wht/Grn wire, re-check under-dash Fuse No. 26 to make sure it is not blown. If the fuse is good, with the Wht/Grn wire still grounded, then check if there is power on the Grn/Blk wire at terminal no. 6 to the connector of the front passenger window switch.

JAD

Hello Tech8,
So there is no power to grn/blk on the passenger switch connector when the #3 terminal is grounded, ignition on. I have 12v power to all others on that side of the passenger switch. The fuse was still good. I jumped the yellow/red (i believe next to the grn/blk), which had 12v, to the green/ black. The window worked from the right door switch only. The relay (which I found up under the kick panel. don't know why it has to be hidden), clicks when I use the child lock out switch. Does not click from the master switch right door button being depressed however, or when I ground only terminal #3. I believe originally when I got the click, it was a jumper from 1 to 3 to body ground, and then the relay clicked.

I have an open circuit to the relay via the master I presume. Found yet MORE quick connects under the kick panel on the loom going to the relay block. I have to check all those wires for breaks now. But we do have a working window and that gets me closer to the permanent fix. Thanks for your help so far. I will be continuing to a correct conclusion however. I don't like things halfed assed. I can now secure the car though, and that was a concern. I will be back after checking those wires that were raped to the relay block tomorrow. Thanks again.

JAD

Hello Again Tech 8,
I have finished checking all wires that were tampered with and removed the left on quick connectors. All are undamaged except for the cut through the insulation. I have used a paint on type of insulator repair to fix that. I am still not sure why I have no power to/from the relay. I am thinking I have a open wire between the right door window button on the master to the right door relay. But since it is not a hot lead, but a ground that originates in the PCB of the master control?? I believe that is what you mentioned the difference is between the 2003 4 and the later years. If grounding those three terminals #1, #2, #3 on the master control to body doesn't appear to power the relay, what will? Also will my jump in the passenger switch I mentioned above cause any problems if I leave it there for now? Thanks for your time in advance

tech8

The under-dash power window relay may not be the problem if you heard a click when you grounded the Wht/Grn driver's door multiplex wire. With the Wht/Grn wire grounded, check for power on both side of under-dash Fuse No. 26. This may indicate if there is an open (break) in the Grn/Blk wire that goes to the front passenger switch.

JAD

I have been out of town for the holiday and have just gotten back to the problem. I have traced the wire from the master to the relay. Its is indeed open. I am going to run a new wire to the relay and see if that solves the problem. I will post back when I have finished this portion of the repair.

JAD

Well sorry for the long delay as many things have happened since my last post, but I promised to see this through till the end. Well my old P/U truck was stolen 3 weeks ago and my priorities switched to repairing the damage and replacing my handicap hand controls they ripped out along with the obvious stuff like the radio etc.

But I digress, In the interim the Accord started having very odd stuff happen electrically. The car suddenly wouldn't shut off, turn the key to "0" and the engine kept running. The TCS lights were on constantly and the SRS light was acting up. Turns out (as posted in another thread about the engine running, that there was a left over relay from the headlight install that the previous owner hooked up. He spiced into the white and black wire from the ignition switch and then FOR WHAT EVER REASON used a 12v source to the master window switch for the relay switched 12v lead. This was the problem with EVERYTHING. removed the splice i put in the door mentioned above in the older posts, and TADA! all windows work as they should, the engine shut off and, all the lights on the dash are normal. I want to thank you for your time given to my problem and although this problem wasn't solved by our diagnosing here, it did educate me on much of the wiring in the car and led me to the actual problem.. Thanks again for your help Tech8, very much appreciated.

tech8

Sorry to hear about your P/U being stolen and items removed or damaged.

You're very welcome. I was glad to try to help even though that didn't solve the issue. But, glad to hear you did find the issue.