Underdrive Pulley Kits DIY!!!!
10-11-2005, 05:05 PM
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Underdrive Pulley Kits DIY!!!!
Im planning on buying an underdrive pulley kit but i want to do the install myself. ANyone know how or have any DiY pictures for a 92 accord? any help is gooood.
10-11-2005, 08:32 PM
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The pulleys should not be so hard... because there's space for you to work with.....
The AC and PS pulleys will free up some ponnies... but a crank one is the main thing...
If you get "underdrive crank", you will be doing something that wasn't really meant to be done.... because hondas don't come stock with underdrive....
My opinion, get pulleys... but get the whole kit.... including all 3 pulleys available... AC, PS and Crank...
BTW... I think that the only brand that makes stock diameter crank pulleys is "unorthodox".. and they are expensive as ****... but... oh well.... what can you do if they are the only ones right?!
The AC and PS pulleys will free up some ponnies... but a crank one is the main thing...
If you get "underdrive crank", you will be doing something that wasn't really meant to be done.... because hondas don't come stock with underdrive....
My opinion, get pulleys... but get the whole kit.... including all 3 pulleys available... AC, PS and Crank...
BTW... I think that the only brand that makes stock diameter crank pulleys is "unorthodox".. and they are expensive as ****... but... oh well.... what can you do if they are the only ones right?!
10-11-2005, 10:15 PM
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Re: (gianinline)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gianinline »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"unorthodox".. and they are expensive as ****... but... oh well.... what can you do if they are the only ones right?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
F*** 'em. Go AEM.
F*** 'em. Go AEM.
10-12-2005, 09:01 AM
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Re: (AFAccord)
Just make sure that you're not running a stereo system bigger than head unit and speakers cuz supposedly, anything more than that with pulleys will screw your car up.
10-12-2005, 01:12 PM
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Re: (Knightmare69)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knightmare69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just make sure that you're not running a stereo system bigger than head unit and speakers cuz supposedly, anything more than that with pulleys will screw your car up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Extremely generic description, but possibly half true...
Using AEM pullies, there is an obvious change in the voltage the car produces AT IDLE.
Though I am still running a 140-amp alternator from back in my competition days, the following still holds true regardless of OE or aftermarket alt's.
At idle, yes, the alternator is not turned quickly enough to produce sufficient voltage to power a typical aftermarket audio system. For this case we'll say an amp over 200w RMS. My voltage usualy hovers around 10.5 - 11.5 volts. For the junkie who likes to pound his wal-mart system in a parking lot for his friends while the car idles, this is most certainly detrimental to the car's charging system.
However, when you are crusing down the road and feel like cranking your tunes up, you car is most likely hovering around 2000rpms. At this speed, even with underdrive pullies, the alternator is putting out a healthy supply of voltage to pump most anyone's system. As soon as I cross the 1000-1100rpm mark, my voltage jumps to 14.1 volts.
Point being, idle is the only time you will see a drop in your charging system's output. If you plan on pounding your system, use your common sense, and don't do it at idle. But I digress...
for AEM
Extremely generic description, but possibly half true...
Using AEM pullies, there is an obvious change in the voltage the car produces AT IDLE.
Though I am still running a 140-amp alternator from back in my competition days, the following still holds true regardless of OE or aftermarket alt's.
At idle, yes, the alternator is not turned quickly enough to produce sufficient voltage to power a typical aftermarket audio system. For this case we'll say an amp over 200w RMS. My voltage usualy hovers around 10.5 - 11.5 volts. For the junkie who likes to pound his wal-mart system in a parking lot for his friends while the car idles, this is most certainly detrimental to the car's charging system.
However, when you are crusing down the road and feel like cranking your tunes up, you car is most likely hovering around 2000rpms. At this speed, even with underdrive pullies, the alternator is putting out a healthy supply of voltage to pump most anyone's system. As soon as I cross the 1000-1100rpm mark, my voltage jumps to 14.1 volts.
Point being, idle is the only time you will see a drop in your charging system's output. If you plan on pounding your system, use your common sense, and don't do it at idle. But I digress...
for AEM
10-12-2005, 02:30 PM
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Re: (AFAccord)
Thanks alot. I dont think im going through with it because im running well over 1000 watts just to power my subs. I dont think i'll be able to remember to keep my car over 2000 rpms at ALL times when i have my system thumping... what Do you think HONDATA? i know its far more expensive, and its different, but i just want to hear your take on it...
Modified by Crazy D at 4:18 PM 10/13/2005
Modified by Crazy D at 4:18 PM 10/13/2005
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10-12-2005, 03:20 PM
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Re: (Knightmare69)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knightmare69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, you can possibly get a cap or 2 help no?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ind33d... a very good idea.
Unless you're one of those annoying guys who blares his music while stopped in traffic, I don't think you'll have any problems.
If you truly have more than 1200 watts of continuous power, then I believe you should be looking more at performance AUDIO enhancements like the said capacitors. If the need is excessive, a second battery (which will slow you down, negating any gains from pullies in the first place) will serve you well. My approach was to save my hearing, and sell (or atleast reduce) the subwoofer setup, in-turn dropping weight. This is the cheapest go-faster mod I've every done!
As for the Hondata, that's an excellent product, but completely different idea from pullies. Try not to get too far over your head with a product like that. The knowledge to use it correctly and beneficially is well beyond that of installing a pulley.
Ind33d... a very good idea.
Unless you're one of those annoying guys who blares his music while stopped in traffic, I don't think you'll have any problems.
If you truly have more than 1200 watts of continuous power, then I believe you should be looking more at performance AUDIO enhancements like the said capacitors. If the need is excessive, a second battery (which will slow you down, negating any gains from pullies in the first place) will serve you well. My approach was to save my hearing, and sell (or atleast reduce) the subwoofer setup, in-turn dropping weight. This is the cheapest go-faster mod I've every done!
As for the Hondata, that's an excellent product, but completely different idea from pullies. Try not to get too far over your head with a product like that. The knowledge to use it correctly and beneficially is well beyond that of installing a pulley.
10-12-2005, 08:46 PM
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Re: (AFAccord)
i know hondata is a big step up from plain old pulleys. Im just stuck at deciding my next mod. Im not the noob my profile says i am. just looking for opinions, not judgements.
10-13-2005, 08:07 AM
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Re: (Crazy D)
I have a question... How did you go from pulley's to Hondata?? One is for tuning to get more power from the mods you already have and the other is to free up some extra ponies from your motor..HMMM...
10-13-2005, 08:12 AM
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underdrive pulleys barely add up for anything aside from the crank pulley. but you can probably get the AEM instructions off their site or by emailing them and asking, and then use those for whatever PS/Alt pulleys you want. have you already done I/H/E?
10-13-2005, 03:17 PM
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Re: (SpeedFreak77)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedFreak77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a question... How did you go from pulley's to Hondata?? One is for tuning to get more power from the mods you already have and the other is to free up some extra ponies from your motor..HMMM...</TD></TR></TABLE>i know what pulleys are and what they do. I also know what HONDATA is and what it does. Im just gathering ideas. I never said anything about the two being alike.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmmVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">underdrive pulleys barely add up for anything aside from the crank pulley. but you can probably get the AEM instructions off their site or by emailing them and asking, and then use those for whatever PS/Alt pulleys you want. have you already done I/H/E?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes i have done I/H/E. well headers are in the shiping process right now.. but ya.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmmVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">underdrive pulleys barely add up for anything aside from the crank pulley. but you can probably get the AEM instructions off their site or by emailing them and asking, and then use those for whatever PS/Alt pulleys you want. have you already done I/H/E?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes i have done I/H/E. well headers are in the shiping process right now.. but ya.
10-13-2005, 03:30 PM
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Re: (Crazy D)
If you do hondata do all your mods first and then tune it at the dyno. Dyno runs aren't cheap and neither is burning chips for the hondata. Don't have it, never will but from what little research I have done it ain't cheap.
I would do some more research on the underdrive pullies. Even without sound systems I've read plenty of complaints about dimmer headlights, blown fuses, and erratic OEM radio even when NOT IDLING. Make your own opinion but look around first so you don't get an expensive disappointment.
I would do some more research on the underdrive pullies. Even without sound systems I've read plenty of complaints about dimmer headlights, blown fuses, and erratic OEM radio even when NOT IDLING. Make your own opinion but look around first so you don't get an expensive disappointment.
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11-15-2005 02:19 PM
alternator, change, complaints, f23, h22, honda, kit, low, neuspeed, prelude, pulley, pulleys, s2000, underdrive, voltage
