AtoZ

Are these things listed below normal for an 95 Accord Ex, Vtec? The vehicle drives well on the road after I get out of P or N. so, all these issues occur while the vehicle is sitting still in P or N. There is no air in the cooling system. Cold starts and drivability is ok. No MIL light, no A/T FI or ELD codes stored.

1. When I leave off the brake pedal in P or N, the rpm jumps up about 200, to around 1,000 rpm

2. When I shift from D4 or R, back to P or N, the rpm jumps up about 200, to around 1,000

3. When I am in P or N, and raise the rpm slowly, I lose control of the rpm needle at approx the 1,250 line, and the needle jumps to 1,750. I can control the rpm below or above those numbers.

4. After the vehicle is well warmed up to OP temp [idling about 20-30 minutes], if I touch the throttle pedal and take the rpm over 1,000 but under the 1,250 line, sometimes it stays there after I take my foot off the throttle, or dances around a bit in that rpm area before it settles back down. But one thing it always does, is when I raise the rpm to 1,000 or higher, the rpm needle does not drop right back to the idle position when I leave off the throttle. It stops for a moment at around 1,100 rpm and then drops back to the idle position.

5. When I am getting out of the drivers seat and touch the B post area of the body with my left hand I feel a slight electric current. I thought it was my imagination, but then one time it was much more noticeable and unmistakable.

6. When I turn the steering wheel while the vehicle is sitting still, I hear a groan and at the same time the rpm raises about 200, no matter what gear the trans is in.

7. I did the TPS test according to Ghost Accords instructions, meter positive lead back probing the TPS Red/Blk signal wire, and the meter negative lead to the Grn/Blu. It goes from 0.444 V to 0.453 at fully closed throttle. There is about 4.2 to 4.3 volts at full open throttle. The transition between the numbers was smooth, no blank spots, no sticking. But when I got the engine to over 1,000 rpm, the voltage was still giving me a reading for the fully closed throttle, around 0.485 to 0.497. When I turned the throttle to get past the closed specs, to say 0.500 to 0.502, the engine had to be at 1,500 rpm. I see that the chart in the Honda Service Manual shows the closed throttle voltage from 0.1 volt to to 0.5, so, does that mean that the TPS signal should always be over the 0.5 as soon as you come idle at closed throttle? ... In other words, can the voltage signal be calibrated too low, where the ecu would be confused if the TPS output voltage was telling the ecu it was in the closed throttle range, but the actual engine rpm was well into the open throttle position, 1,500 rpm?

GhostAccord

The voltage should change as soon as you move the throttle plate no matter what. You should not still see the closed throttle 0.444v if you have rotated the throttle plate. Even if you only turn it a fraction of a hair. Try replacing the TPS.

AtoZ

It does move immediately. As I said above: "The transition between the numbers was smooth, no blank spots, no sticking." So, it goes from about 0.444 to 0.497. I dont still see the 0.444 when I move the Throttle. What I am concerned about is being at 1,500 rpm and still being in the closed throttle voltage range of 0.490 to 0.4900. All those voltage numbers are for a closed throttle. I'm thinking I should be seeing a voltage reading above 0.499 for 1,500 rpms, at least a 0.599

Dannyvho

This is a static electricity discharge. There's no danger but it may feel uncomfortable.
An earth strap attached under the car floor may bring some relief but I use a keyring that has a little neon lightbulb in it: when leaving the car I hold one end of the keyring and touch the B post or door metal with the other end. This way the static discharge happens more gradually and I don't feel it.

GhostAccord

If your throttle remains closed and your idle RPM is going up the TPS voltage will not change. The only time the voltage from your TPS will change is if the throttle is turned. The TPS voltage doesn't necessarily follow the RPM your engine is at.

Your IAC valve or FIT valve would be what is raising your idle. Or you could have an air leak into your intake manifold. Usually if you have an air leak the idle surges all the time.

Have you checked/cleaned your IACV & FITV recently? Also you could check your throttle body, intake gaskets and vacuum hoses for leaks? An air bubble in your cooling system can cause a surging idle as well.

There is a good thread in the FAQ for cleaning the IAC & FIT valves.

AtoZ

The fitv is drawing a good bit of air all the time. I think the internal shaft in the fitv broke. Last time I looked it was off at an angle. But there was a time when the fitv was not pulling in air, and I still had the same symptoms. I didnt want to predjudice this thread by mentioning that fact. I know I need a fitv but wasnt sure about the TPS. So, it looks like the fitv is solely to blame for these idle isues.

Ok, but now what about those other rpm issues with the brake and steering wheel and trans gear selection, etc.

Dannyvho

Each of these items result in a 'we need more power' signal to the ECU. The IAC valve will then adjust the idle rpm to remain within specs.

GhostAccord

x2 the ELD sends a signal when the vehicles power draw is over a certain point. The ECU sends a signal to the IACV that opens the valve and gives the engine a little boost (RPMs). This in turn bumps up the output of the alternator.

When was the last time you had your battery & alternator checked/replaced?

AtoZ

I replaced the Alt brushes with new ones recently, although the brushes that were in the Alt still had plenty of brush left. The Alt is charging the battery at 14.+ There is no stored ELD code. Battery is ok as far as I know. It holds a charge, and the gravity is high and even in each cell.

Well, here is what is left for those issues. # 1, 2, and 7 have been answered, and is most likely being caused by the fitv. # 5 was answered. So that leaves these remaining issues: I'll renumber them.

1. When I am in P or N, and raise the rpm slowly, I lose control of the rpm at approx the 1,250 line. The rpm needle jumps right to 1,750. I asume the computer is taking control of the idle. Is that normal?

2. Also, when I raise the rpm to 1,000 or higher, the rpm needle does not drop right back to the idle position when I leave off the throttle. It stops for a moment at around 1,100 rpm and then drops back to the idle position. No other vehicle I have ever owned does this. When I leave off the throttle on other vehicles the rpm needle drops down smoothly to zero. So, is this stopping for a moment at about 1,000 rpm normal behavior for a Honda VTEC engine?

3. When I turn the steering wheel while the vehicle is sitting still, I hear a groan and at the same time the rpm raises about 200, no matter what gear the trans is in.