D. EaMigz

I have a 1998 honda accord 6th gen... Just about to go crazy on this. I really have a bad and low rough idle on cold start up but if its gets warmed up its already gud..tried everything from vacuum leaks to TB cleaning, iacv replacement and etc but no joy. I went thru the fuses on the drivers side and found out that i have cuise control ECU fuse but i dont have any cruise control so i pulled the fuse out....and guess what....smmmmmmooooooth idle very smooth, but my D4 light is now blinking and my charging system is not anymore charging my battery.....i thought o already found the solution to my 6 mos problem but i was wrong... I really need some help.

MAD_MIKE

What sub model, what engine/transmission? There are slight differences.
Has the car always done this or is this a new occurence?
Have you done the basics and verified the ignition system is up to snuff? Generic worn out ignition wires may allow excessive condesnation to build up in the spark plug tubes and distributor cap which may allow for rough running until the water vapor evaporates. Boots should fit on the spark plugs snug and not pop off.
Some circuits are labeled for CC but are also tied into the dash and VSS(speed sensor) circuit, disconnecting that would kill the signal to the VSS you would no longer have a functional speedo and the D4 and CEL lamps may illuminate.
#6 Dside under dash fuse(15A) powers quite a few things.
PCM, VSS, CC, EVAP, mount, vent, O2S relay, O2S heater circuit, ELD, etc etc.
So if you pull that fuse you would kill anything that has to compute, and the engine is probably running off a set table(limp mode) and not running off input sensors, thus the engine would run smooth just don't expect to drive normally.
#9 D.side fuse also is part of the control circuit for CC, but is also the power to clock, DTRL, back up lamps, gauge cluster, both underdas multiplex units, etc etc.
Also not a fuse to pull.
CC just piggy backs off existing circuits, it does not have its own dedicated fuse.
Get back to basics.
How is maintenance, be redundant and check basics, air filter clean(use light test), fuel pump kicks on when turning the key to II(ON) everytime, oil full and correct weight.
Turn off all accessories(fan, radio, defrost) and make sure it is not a load related issue.
Any work done prior to this rough running? If so check the area where work was done, and look for loose or damaged connections.
Verify the TB has a clean bore and the IACV ports are not blocked.
Verify spark plug gap/ignition components are in order, base ignition timing is correct.
Verify compression is good, warm engine, TB to WOT when testing.
If high mileage have you verified valve clearances within the past 30K miles?
Verify battery is clean, no leaking electrolyte, securely mounted, terminals are clean and tight.
Verify grounds and bonding jumpers are also intact, clean and tight connections.

D. EaMigz

Oh wow! Hats off to you sir.....first off its a f23a engine sir, not sure with the tranny. I had the problem since last year when i got it from my sister who gave it to me for free. Not quite sure as to her maintenance but since I got it....checking and maintenance are at par. Ignition system has a slight problem since there is a trace of oil leak in the distributor cap....HT wires are original, it still has 60k on the clock plugs are burning nice....with a little dry carbon deposits. Now I understand the thing about the fuse sir.... That clarifies a lot of question looking at the service manual for this car. I may have to check my iacv to ecu since everything is working fine when it already in normal operating temperature. Could it also be my ect sensor...... Need to check on that also. Again sir thank you so much for the info regarding the fuse as it really made me go loco even wanting to make a direct charging line from alternator to battery just to cheat the system lol....thank you sir..