Shop wants all 4 rotors replaced at 75k???
My 03 EX 4 has a vibration when braking. Had 2 shops say it was the rotors (need turning) so I checked around and found the best price at $95....for both front. Fellow said 95% of the time the fronts are all that need it. So I take the car in and leave it and (different) fellow calls back and says all 4 rotors need replacement because they are too far gone to be turned (although the pads are nearing the end but still have a little). My obvious question is "if the pads are OK what caused the rotor damage"? The best he could come up with was something about metallic pads these days eat up the rotors. Anyone care to comment?
Modified by riga at 11:31 AM 6/2/2006
Modified by riga at 11:31 AM 6/2/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riga »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 03 EX 4 has a vibration when braking. Had 2 shops say it was the rotors (need turning) so I checked around and found the best price at $95....for both front. Fellow said 95% of the time the fronts are all that need it. So I take the car in and leave it and (different) fellow calls back and says all 4 rotors need replacement because they are too far gone to be turned (although the pads are nearing the end but still have a little). My obvious question is "if the pads are OK what caused the rotor damage"? The best he could come up with was something about metallic pads these days eat up the rotors. Anyone care to comment?
Modified by riga at 11:31 AM 6/2/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heavy footed braking with continuos high speed driving. Normally dont have to replace the rear. However if you rode the fronts down to metal then that means the rears had to do most of the braking and they are not designed for that (smaller pads, thinner rotors ,etc...) I dont care to bad mouth small shops ,BUT their volume is usally low and they take what they can get. Some times the place with the cheapest prices is not always the best place to go. Ask about the parts and labor warranty they offer.
Modified by riga at 11:31 AM 6/2/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heavy footed braking with continuos high speed driving. Normally dont have to replace the rear. However if you rode the fronts down to metal then that means the rears had to do most of the braking and they are not designed for that (smaller pads, thinner rotors ,etc...) I dont care to bad mouth small shops ,BUT their volume is usally low and they take what they can get. Some times the place with the cheapest prices is not always the best place to go. Ask about the parts and labor warranty they offer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since they obviousally measured all four rotors with a micrometer ask them what the measuments are. That will tell you if they need to be replaced.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mic measurements wont tell you run-out or thickness variation.
Mic measurements wont tell you run-out or thickness variation.
Why can't it? If you use a dial indicator and take micrometer measurements at 8 equal spots on the rotor you will get a very accurate reading.
If that shop is going to say it needs rotors they need to provide that kind of information.
How much runout parallelism and what is the thickness?
your anly allowed 0.10mm of runout, thickness can be no less than 21.0mm, and .015mm of parallelism.
If that shop is going to say it needs rotors they need to provide that kind of information.
How much runout parallelism and what is the thickness?
your anly allowed 0.10mm of runout, thickness can be no less than 21.0mm, and .015mm of parallelism.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mic measurements wont tell you run-out or thickness variation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not run out, it'll tell diferences in thickness.
Not run out, it'll tell diferences in thickness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why can't it? If you use a dial indicator and take micrometer measurements at 8 equal spots on the rotor you will get a very accurate reading.
If that shop is going to say it needs rotors they need to provide that kind of information.
How much runout parallelism and what is the thickness?
your anly allowed 0.10mm of runout, thickness can be no less than 21.0mm, and .015mm of parallelism.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You didnt say dial indicator you said a "mic"
If that shop is going to say it needs rotors they need to provide that kind of information.
How much runout parallelism and what is the thickness?
your anly allowed 0.10mm of runout, thickness can be no less than 21.0mm, and .015mm of parallelism.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You didnt say dial indicator you said a "mic"
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I just replaced my brakes on an 03. The rotors were only thick enough to turn once so it doesnt amaze me that you had to replace rotors on second job. At least you get to turn them, BMW rotors are designed to get one pad life out of them.
Also, when i got the car, i experienced ALOT of brake fade.... Magazine reviews constantly complaining about the fade confirmed my experience. Guess the Accord is too porky now. I swapped out the brake fluid to off the shelf Castrol LMA (low moisture absorption) Dot3/4 fluid. It made a HUGE difference when slowing down on the highway to take off ramps. My fiance who regularly drives the car was complaining about "LOSS of braking power when braking hard".... that is the basic description brake fade. She immediately noticed a difference even though I did not tell her what I did...... she now knows the term "Brake Fade". It at least confirmed my guess that the fluid used off the factory sucks.
Also, when i got the car, i experienced ALOT of brake fade.... Magazine reviews constantly complaining about the fade confirmed my experience. Guess the Accord is too porky now. I swapped out the brake fluid to off the shelf Castrol LMA (low moisture absorption) Dot3/4 fluid. It made a HUGE difference when slowing down on the highway to take off ramps. My fiance who regularly drives the car was complaining about "LOSS of braking power when braking hard".... that is the basic description brake fade. She immediately noticed a difference even though I did not tell her what I did...... she now knows the term "Brake Fade". It at least confirmed my guess that the fluid used off the factory sucks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluskye »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just replaced my brakes on an 03. The rotors were only thick enough to turn once so it doesnt amaze me that you had to replace rotors on second job. At least you get to turn them, BMW rotors are designed to get one pad life out of them.
Also, when i got the car, i experienced ALOT of brake fade.... Magazine reviews constantly complaining about the fade confirmed my experience. Guess the Accord is too porky now. I swapped out the brake fluid to off the shelf Castrol LMA (low moisture absorption) Dot3/4 fluid. It made a HUGE difference when slowing down on the highway to take off ramps. My fiance who regularly drives the car was complaining about "LOSS of braking power when braking hard".... that is the basic description brake fade. She immediately noticed a difference even though I did not tell her what I did...... she now knows the term "Brake Fade". It at least confirmed my guess that the fluid used off the factory sucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I highly doubt your fluid makes that much of a diffrence but if your mind thinks so well...anyhow you would see much better results by switching to a better pad
Also, when i got the car, i experienced ALOT of brake fade.... Magazine reviews constantly complaining about the fade confirmed my experience. Guess the Accord is too porky now. I swapped out the brake fluid to off the shelf Castrol LMA (low moisture absorption) Dot3/4 fluid. It made a HUGE difference when slowing down on the highway to take off ramps. My fiance who regularly drives the car was complaining about "LOSS of braking power when braking hard".... that is the basic description brake fade. She immediately noticed a difference even though I did not tell her what I did...... she now knows the term "Brake Fade". It at least confirmed my guess that the fluid used off the factory sucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I highly doubt your fluid makes that much of a diffrence but if your mind thinks so well...anyhow you would see much better results by switching to a better pad
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ninety5Ex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is a common issue with the 03 accord. I just bought one and it was really bad. The dealer replaced all 4. If you have to pay I would say buy the rotors and change them yourself. It's real easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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